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 Joe's Valley Bouldering
Video by Ivo Penchev and John Gass - John Gass and Ivo Penchev climb Playmate of the Year (V9), Resident Evil (V10), and Trent's Mom (V11) in Joe's Valley, Utah. Ivo says about Trent's Mom: "By far, this is the hardest boulder I have been able to do outside. Since I work full time, I have not been able to stay for a period of time at Joe’s, so every weekend, we have been going there to enjoy the season." More at lovechclimbing.com.  Committed: You Gotta Have Nuts to Climb Mt. Whitney
Video by Mark and Janelle Smiley - Wanting to bypass the annoyance of getting an overnight permit, we decided to climb the east face of Whitney in one long day. We had created a routine of reading the chapter in the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America book to pump us up for the climb. Every chapter has an equipment section at its end. “Chocks work extremely well, and a selection of 6-8 is sufficient.” We decided it would be fun to do this climb old-school style.  Jeff Lowe's Pack Retrieved from Eiger North Face
Video by Jeff Lowe - A scene from "Jeff Lowe's Metanoia": Josh Wharton retrieved Jeff Lowe's backpack from high up on the North Face of the Eiger after 20 years. About the movie: Jeff’s extraordinary first ascent on the Eiger, Metanoia (a Greek word meaning a fundamental change of thinking: a transformative change of heart) has never been repeated. Ueli Steck wants to attempt the route that Men’s Journal called “unimaginable.”  Nina Caprez: About a Girl
Video by Prana Living - My passion for climbing started as soon as I stepped into my first real climbing shoes—I knew that this is my sport. I grew up in the middle of the Swiss mountains in a valley called Prattigau. After finishing high school, finding no solid direction in normal life, I decided to leave the "routine" and chose to continue my life as a climber. My desire to practice this sport with all his facets was so strong that I was able to overcome all the obstacles that I came across to peruse my lifestyle.  Owen Graham in Horseshoe Canyon
Video by Prana Living - Owen Graham officially began competition climbing in the Dallas, Texas, area at age nine in a local climbing gym. He and his family knew nothing about the sport, but it instantly felt like home to Owen. He was really a climber at age one, constantly climbing out of his crib as a young boy to run into his parents' bedroom. One night, his dad actually reversed the door locks so they could get some sleep.  10 Days on the Front Range
Video by John Gass - Brion Voges and Brad Weaver came out to Colorado for 10 days, climbing with John Gass in Clear Creek Canyon, Boulder Canyon, Eldorado Canyon, Poudre Canyon, and Matthew-Winters Park. Problems include Dark Waters (V12/13), Hard Boiled (V11), Left Graham Arete (V11), Elegant Universe (V11), Elegant Infinite (V10), Bambi (V11), Fantasia (V13), Circadian Rhythm (V13), and Suspension of Disbelief (V13).  Climbing in the Eastern Sierras
Video by Justin Evidon - A good selection of climbs from the Happy Boulders (Carrot Top (V3), Run with Me (V2), Ketron Classic (V4)) and The Buttermilks (Good Morning Sunshine (V1), Pope's Prow (V5/6), Monkey Dihedral (V2), Iron Man Traverse (V4), Saigon (V5/6), High Plains Drifter (V6/7)).  Daniel Woods: Best Day Ever
Video by iClimb - Andy Mann filmed Daniel Woods on perhaps his best day of bouldering ever. Woods, in Hueco recently for the Hueco Rock Rodeo (he won the comp), climbed Li (V13), Liane (V13), Mo Mojo (V11), Evangelion (V13), Slashface (V13), and Crown Royale (V13), doing the first four problems on his first attempts.  Gabriele Moroni on Action Directe (5.14d)
In September 1991, Wolfgang Güllich made the first ascent of Action Directe in the Frankenjura, Germany. Generally recognized as the world's first 5.14d, Action has seen at least 13 repeats, including those by Dave Graham, Adam Ondra, and Kilian Fischhuber. Here, Gabriele Moroni talks about his send of Action Directe in April 2010 and recounts Güllich's history with the route and free climbing in general.  Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand on Mt. Edgar, Parts 1 & 2
Video by Black Diamond - Kyle Dempster traveled to China's Sichuan Province in November 2010 with Bruce Normand and made two major first ascents: the central couloir on the west face of Mount Grosvenor and the east face of Mount Edgar (which is the face that claimed the lives of Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson in May 2009).  The Zanskar Odyssey - Part 2
Video by CryptoChild - After their first three basecamp locations didn't meet the team's needs, they go off of a tip from a man named Shamsher, who spoke of house-sized boulders in a place known as Zardo in the Miyar Valley. This is the last choice for the Zanskar crew, but hopes are high. If you missed Part 1, watch it here.  Committed: Ellingwood Ledges, Crestone Needle
Video by Mark and Janelle Smiley - Crestone Needle is very striking. The Ellingwood Ledges route is visible from miles away, cutting up through the sky like… something really sharp and big. We rounded the alpine lake at its base and headed up the talus field to the base of the climb. There were already five other people on the route! I guess it was a weekend, and it is a classic route.  Peter Beal and Jimmy Webb at Flagstaff Mountain, Colorado
Video by Peter Beal - Jimmy Webb and Peter Webb climb Just Right sds (V11) and Daydreamer sds (V10) on Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, Colorado. "Two of the best double-digit testpieces on Flagstaff Mountain sit side by side on Capstan Rock," Beal says about the problems. Webb's ascent was the first repeat of Just Right.  Patagonia 2010: Cerro Standhart and Cerro Piergiorgio
Video by Jonathan Griffith - After encountering bad weather for the first six days of the trip, the team made it to the Niponino basecamp in windy conditions. They climbed the Exocet Chimney on Cerro Standhart and the East Face of Cerro Piergiorgio. Teams from all over the world were super-active in Patagonia this season. Read more about Patagonia ascents here and here.  Peter Kamitses on Old World Lullaby (5.14a)
Video by 3d Media Watch - Peter Kamitses climbs Old World Lullaby (5.14) at the Black and Tan Wall in St. George, Utah. Sent in January, Kamitses describes this Joe Kinder route as "an awesome testpiece of consistent power endurance and without a doubt the best line at the cliff... Another great experience of a rock climb feeling impossible at first, and then coming together to flow like water... Love it!"  Committed: South Face of the Petit Grepon
Video by Mark and Janelle Smiley - Climbing the 50 classics in North America continues with the South Face (5.7 Gr III) of the Petit Grepon in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Adam Ondra on Obrint el Sistema (5.15a, FA)
Video by Desnivel - On Sunday, March 13, Adam Ondra opened Obrint el Sistema (5.15a) in Santa Ana, Spain. He added several technical and physical moves to an extension Dani Andrada already added to Victor Fernandez's route Obrint Pas. Next up for Ondra? Several 5.15 projects nearby in Santa Ana: Saltando a Dos Manos, Contra el Sistema, and La Sombra Del Viento. Read more here.  Nalle Hukkataival on the Grit
Video by Ed Ratcliffe - Nalle Hukkataival joins some of Britain's strongest climbers including Jon Partridge and Sam Hamer on a stunning evening in the Peak District after the semi-finals of the Climbing Works International Festival, as they try some of the gritstone classics at Stanage Plantation. Problems (in order) are The Storm (V8), Ulysses' Bow (V6), and Brad Pitt (V10).  Bouldering: 10 Days in Arkansas
Video by John Gass - While spending 10 days bouldering in Arkansas, John Gass and Tom Camillieri dispatched Jeff's Prow (V9), Flash Gordon (V10), Daily Planet (V9), Glass Bowl (V10), and Aura (V11) at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. At Cowell, Triforce (V9) and Off the Rails (V10) went down.  Adam Ondra: 5.14c Onsight in Etxauri, Spain
In the first week of March, Adam Ondra stunned the climbing community by onsighting four 5.14c's in the span of several days: Powerade, El Templo del Cafe, Fuck the Police, and Tekken, which sit at Vadiello, Alquezar, and Etxauri, Spain, respectively. He also redpointed Desafiando a Tsunami (5.14c) and onsighted Noa (5.13d) before packing up and heading to Catalunya, Spain. Read the full report here. |
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