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 Patagonia 2010: Cerro Standhart and Cerro Piergiorgio
Video by Jonathan Griffith - After encountering bad weather for the first six days of the trip, the team made it to the Niponino basecamp in windy conditions. They climbed the Exocet Chimney on Cerro Standhart and the East Face of Cerro Piergiorgio. Teams from all over the world were super-active in Patagonia this season. Read more about Patagonia ascents here and here.  Peter Kamitses on Old World Lullaby (5.14a)
Video by 3d Media Watch - Peter Kamitses climbs Old World Lullaby (5.14) at the Black and Tan Wall in St. George, Utah. Sent in January, Kamitses describes this Joe Kinder route as "an awesome testpiece of consistent power endurance and without a doubt the best line at the cliff... Another great experience of a rock climb feeling impossible at first, and then coming together to flow like water... Love it!"  Committed: South Face of the Petit Grepon
Video by Mark and Janelle Smiley - Climbing the 50 classics in North America continues with the South Face (5.7 Gr III) of the Petit Grepon in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Adam Ondra on Obrint el Sistema (5.15a, FA)
Video by Desnivel - On Sunday, March 13, Adam Ondra opened Obrint el Sistema (5.15a) in Santa Ana, Spain. He added several technical and physical moves to an extension Dani Andrada already added to Victor Fernandez's route Obrint Pas. Next up for Ondra? Several 5.15 projects nearby in Santa Ana: Saltando a Dos Manos, Contra el Sistema, and La Sombra Del Viento. Read more here.  Nalle Hukkataival on the Grit
Video by Ed Ratcliffe - Nalle Hukkataival joins some of Britain's strongest climbers including Jon Partridge and Sam Hamer on a stunning evening in the Peak District after the semi-finals of the Climbing Works International Festival, as they try some of the gritstone classics at Stanage Plantation. Problems (in order) are The Storm (V8), Ulysses' Bow (V6), and Brad Pitt (V10).  Bouldering: 10 Days in Arkansas
Video by John Gass - While spending 10 days bouldering in Arkansas, John Gass and Tom Camillieri dispatched Jeff's Prow (V9), Flash Gordon (V10), Daily Planet (V9), Glass Bowl (V10), and Aura (V11) at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. At Cowell, Triforce (V9) and Off the Rails (V10) went down.  Adam Ondra: 5.14c Onsight in Etxauri, Spain
In the first week of March, Adam Ondra stunned the climbing community by onsighting four 5.14c's in the span of several days: Powerade, El Templo del Cafe, Fuck the Police, and Tekken, which sit at Vadiello, Alquezar, and Etxauri, Spain, respectively. He also redpointed Desafiando a Tsunami (5.14c) and onsighted Noa (5.13d) before packing up and heading to Catalunya, Spain. Read the full report here.  Surf's Up! Endangered Species (NEI5+ M6+ R), Poke-O-Moonshine
Video by Freddie Wilkinson - "The ice swell was on at Poke-O-Moonshine cliff this season, the winter of 2010-2011. My friends Matt Horner, Matt McCormick, and Bayard Russell pioneered an amazing new mixed line just right of the Jeff Lowe testpiece, Gorillas in the Mist. Only one pitch remained to finish Endangered Species to the top of the cliff... and Kevin Mahoney was psyched..." Read the full report here.  Dave MacLeod and Tim Emmett in Pembroke, U.K.
Video by Black Diamond - This past fall, Black Diamond athletes Dave Macleod and Tim Emmett ventured to the ultra-scenic crags of Pembroke, South Wales, a place known not only for its bold, beautiful lines on striking seaside cliffs, but also for its notoriously finicky conditions that can make redpointing an exercise in extreme patience. The video gives an intimate look at the intricacies of U.K. climbing and details Dave and Tim's efforts on some of Pembroke's best (and headiest) routes, including Dave Pickford's The Brother Karamazov (E9 6c).  A Week in Hueco Tanks
Video by Ben Grubb - A short video from our climbing trip to Hueco Tanks, Texas, in November 2010. During the one-week trip, we did our best to get round as many classic problems as possible across a variety of grades. This film documents a few of our favorites, which include Moonshine Roof (V4), T-Bone Shuffle (V4), Girls of Juarez (V4), The Melon Patch (V0), and Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2). More details about our trip, including photos and ticklists, can be found here.  Sean McColl on Punt-X (5.14d)
Video by Pierre Delas - Canadian strong climber Sean "Flash" McColl sending Punt-X (9a/5.14d) in Déversé, Gorges du Loup, France, August 2010. 30 hard moves in 1 minute, 40 seconds! Who will climb faster? McColl recently won the ABS National Championships in Boulder, Colorado. Read more here.  Jen Vennon, 5.14 Climber and Kindergarten Teacher
Video by Prana Living - Jen Vennon had just accepted a scholarship to the University of Florida, where she aspired to become an engineer, when some friends took her climbing for the first time. With a childhood spent in gymnastics, Vennon took to climbing immediately.  Daniel Woods and The Invisible Man Project
Video by Courtney Sanders - On North Mountain in Hueco Tanks, Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb cleaned holds on a project to the left of Terremer (V15), Terre de Sienne (V14), and Diaphanous Sea (V12). They dubbed it "The Invisible Man" project because all the holds are half the size of Terremer. "Crimpy and physical and weird" is how Woods describes it.  Fred Nicole Bouldering in Switzerland
Video by Bernardo Gimenez / Black Diamond - Black Diamond athlete Fred Nicole is a true master boulderer, having been at the forefront of the sport for more than two decades. Soft-spoken and thoughtful, he has developed benchmark problems from Hueco Tanks to Rocklands to Fontainebleau to his home forests of Switzerland, all with his trademark silent, graceful power.  A Wet Day at Rocktown, Georgia
Video by Brian Clevenger and Erich Purpur - Two climbers try to make the most out of a wet day at Rocktown, Georgia. Brian Clevenger and Ben Newton get on the Hueco Simulator boulder, a variation problem (V6), Golden Shower (V5), and Blue (V5). Rocktown, known for its high-quality sandstone and similarities to Horse Pens 40, sits close to the Georgia/Tennessee border near LaFayette, Georgia.  Anam Cara (V15) in Silvretta Mountains, Austria
Video by Tobias Haller - In 2009, Korni Obleitner climbed one of the hardest boulder problems in the world: Anam Cara (V15), a 30-degree roof problem that Bernd Zangerl problem put up in 2008 in the Silvretta Mountains, Austria. His send was likely the third ascent of the boulder, after Bernhard Schweiger. Read more and see Obleitner's ticklist at his blog.  Knockin' on Heaven's Door (V11, FA) in Austria
Video by Tobias Haller - "Knockin' on Heaven's Door (V11/12) is one of the purest and most uncompromising highballs I have ever done. I'm very happy I could get the first ascent of this long-term project," said Tobias Haller on usa.moonclimbing.com. This highball in Zillertal, Austria, caught Haller's eye about two years ago. "Concerning the grading I'm not 100 percent sure," he says. "It's definitely hard V11. If I consider the work I put in it, V12 seems to be more appropriate."  Authentic Battle Damage (V12) in Boulder Canyon, Colorado
Video by Brandon Amos - Zack "Stick" Smith coaxed Jon Cardwell up off the couch on this cold, windy day for a quick, 30-minute session on Authentic Battle Damage (V12) in Boulder Canyon, Colorado. This Chris Schulte problem sits on a riverside boulder below and right of Eagle Rock (6.2 miles up on the south side of Boulder Canyon).  Bushwhack Crack on Valentine's Day
Video by Timothy Jones - Valentine's Day 2010 brought the first sights of spring, so I trudged up to Bushwhack Crack (5.8) at the Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah, with Bryce and Brody for some mid-winter crack climbing. This year, I called up Brody to see if he wanted to do just that, not even realizing we did the same thing to the day last year. We brought up the camera and filmed what ended up being an amazing time in 60-degree weather.  Better Than Chocolate Trailer
Video by Haroun Souirji - Better Than Chocolate is a movie about bouldering in Switzerland. Why Switzerland? The answer is pretty simple. Fontainebleau aside, it probably has the largest concentration of bouldering areas in Europe and arguably the best gneiss rock anywhere. Also, it is the land of many historical ascents, including the first V13, V14, and V15 (Fred Nicole). |
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