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 George Ullrich on a flash attempt of GaiaVideo by Dave Gill / SteepMedia.com - Gaia (E8 6c) is one of those routes we all know about. You’d be hard pressed to find many climbers that haven’t stumbled across the horrendous fall in the opening scene of Slackjaw Film's Hard Grit. It’s interesting reading people's thoughts on the internet and in magazines, about how video is directly affecting modern climbing. When is watching a video beta? Read More: How does video affect climbing?  Concrete Mountains - Buildering in IndianapolisVideo by Greg Oppman / GregOppman.com - Concrete Mountains is a video about Indianapolis builderers: David Fromke, Miguel Caesar, Christopher Newgent, Dr. Jay and Logan Shaefer. It captures the struggles Midwesterners go through when training for a climbing trip — when concrete is the closest thing they can find to real rock within their city.  Heart of Stone
Video by Andrew Kornylak / akornphoto.com and Josh Fowler / boycottmedia.com - It's no secret that the Southeastern US has some of the best rock climbing in the country. Grassroots organizations like the Southeastern Climbers Coalition and the Carolina Climbers Coalition are gaining and preserving access to this treasure in a unique way — by buying it. The annual Triple Crown Bouldering Competition — the largest outdoor climbing competition in the world — is at the center of this access revolution.  2008 Petzl RocTrip - Zillertal, Austria
Video by Guillaume Broust - On July 23-27, 2008, the Petzl RocTrip visited the granite boulders and cliffs near Mayrhofen, Austria, in the spectacular Tyrolean Alps. This unique gathering of climbers featured multimedia presentations, climbing competitions and parties — all celebrating the spirit of climbing. Visit Petzl.com and PetzlTeam.com to learn more about RocTrip and to catch the next one near you.  On Sight Teaser- The Fairhead FallVideo by Alastar Lee / PosingProductions.com - On Sight won both the "Best Climbing Film" award and the coverted "Grand Prize" at the 2008 Kendal Mountain film Festival. Shown in this clip Ricky Bell goes for a big dyno, misses it and takes a pretty good sized whipper. In the feature film Bell takes an even bigger one; Sender Film's Peter Mortimer said, "That fall was just about the craziest thing I've ever seen."  The Send - TrailerVideo by Shawn Boye / www.tielma.com - The Send documents Björn Strömberg's project Leroy 8c at Granitgrottan in Bohuslån. Björn spent 28 days and more than 120 attempts before finally sending... The full length film The Sends — to be released Fall 2009 — features deep water soloing, bouldering and rope developments during a two year odyssey around Sweden.  Team America On The Grit
Videos by Kevin Jorgeson courtesy of www.ukclimbing.com - Kevin Jorgeson, Alex Honnold, and Matt Segal have been on a rampage of England's gritstone with Jorgeson's ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot (E9 6c), Jorgeson's repeat of The Promise (E10 or E8) and The Groove (E11 or E8), a team ascent of End of the Affair (E8 6c), Honnold's onsight of Master's Edge (E7 6b) and more... See ukclimbing.com for more about their sending spree on English Gritstone.  Andy Parkin: "Life in adaptation" - TrailerBy Pip Piper / bluehippomedia.com - The 30 minute documentary, shot over 2 years by Blue Hippo Media and Weekday Productions, provides a powerful insight to the life of a remarkable man who, in 1984, suffered a near fatal Alpine climbing accident. Many then believed Andy’s love affair with the mountains to be over. Read More.  2008 Yangshuo Climbing FestivalVideo courtesy of Black Diamond Equipment - Yangshuo’s endless chain of limestone karst towers spread amongst the surrounding rivers and farmland provided a surreal backdrop for the events on October 31 - November 2. One of the area’s premier climbing walls, White Mountain, served as festival headquarters with its overhanging 70-meter main wall forming a natural amphitheater for music, clinics, and slideshows. READ MORE.  Expedition to India’s Miyar Valley - SlideshowPhotos by Camilo Lopez and Anna Pfaff - Lopez and Pfaff, who live in Lyons, Colorado, established two proud first ascents on two different unclimbed peaks in India’s Miyar Valley from August 13 - September 23, 2008. First they climbed an 840 meter route they dubbed, Directisima, (5.9), on Coni Peak (5,200m). Then they made the F.A. of a 1400 meter ridge they called, Long Life Ridge, (5.9) on Peak 5,800 (5,820m). READ MORE.  The First Ascent of French Duke (E9 7a)Video by Alastair Lee and Adam Lincoln - In this video Jordan Buys makes the first ascent of the ultra-modern gritstone testpiece French Duke (E9 7a), which consists of a Font 7c+ boulder problem high above marginal gear. Buys spent 10 days dialing the slopey arête moves before finally sending the risky headpoint. French Duke is located at Earl Crag, Yorkshire, UK. For more info visit: PosingProductions.com  The Nose Goes Quicker - Part 2Video by Eric Perlman / MastersofStone.com - EXCERPT FROM MASTERS OF STONE 6 COMING SPRING 2009 - The July 2, 2008 - In this 3:20 episode, Yuji and Hans blast past Dolt Tower, up Texas Flake and across the diagonal Bolt Ladder, as usual placing pro in forty to fifty foot intervals. Yuji feels the stress as he fails to unclip a daisy, utters his only profanity of the day ("merde") and cam hooks the aid section of Boot Flake. Their time continues right on the edge of record pace. Watch Part 1, Watch Part 3, Watch Part 4  Crack Addict TeaseA film by Ian Bergeron - An interview with Montreal climber Jean-Pierre "Peewee" Ouellet and footage on two hard cracks in Quebec: Toit de Ben (5.13a) and En attendant que ça séche (5.12+/5.13-). Peewee has repeated some of the hardest cracks in North America: From Switzerland with Love (5.13+), Learning to Fly (5.13+), Desert Gold (5.13), Sphinx Crack (5.13b/c) and established his own La Zebreé (5.14a). Click Here to watch the 13:30 minute video courtesy of EscaladeQuebec.com  Heart of Stone TrailerA new film by Andrew Kornylak and Josh Fowler / akornphoto.com — See the premiere at the Triple Crown finale on December 5-6 in Chattanooga, TN. The focus of the film is Climbing Access in the Southeast. In addition to the release, attendees will have an opportunity to listen to discussions lead by leading climber/activists Lisa Rands, Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden-Caldwell, and Kevin Jorgeson. For more info visit: triplecrownbouldering.com  Call it what you want - Official Trailer
Call it what you want follows Kendal climber, George Ullrich, as he tests himself over a year, at home in the UK and further afield. We see him climb Lake District testpieces, skip the bolts on The Bachar-Yerian, nail Californian first ascents and solo above the ocean in Mallorca.  Leah Crane on Ben's Roof (V10)
Leah Crane, 19 from Sheffield, England has recently made an ascent of the Raven Tor classic boulder problem Ben's Roof (Font 7c+ or V10). It took Leah a sustained effort over a two week period, including a few nightime sessions after work with a headlamp.  The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 21: No Car No Problem
By Fitz Cahall - A 1,200-foot rock wall in a wilderness area – that's standard summer fare. In a day and back before dinner? Sounds easy. Without a car? That’s when my climbing partners stopped returning my phone calls. Recreating without a car might seem impossible, but this summer I set out to test the preconceived notion.  The Magic Wood, Switzerland
Join Philipp Hrozek, Ulrike, Korger, Elisabeth Flassbeck and few others on a journey to Switzerland's Magic Wood boulders. Problems featured in this video are the massive roof of Unendlich Geschichte (8a+), the Riverbed (8b), Enterprise Traverse (7a+), and Electric Boogie (8a+).  Timmy O'Neill profile by The Conservation Alliance and Timex ExpeditionTimex Expedition has introduced Return to the Outdoors, a joint endeavor with Conrad Anker and the Conservation Alliance to inspire Americans to get outdoors and reconnect with nature. Here is the latest of a series of short films meant to inspire adventurers like yourselves to share your own outdoor experience at returntotheoutdoors.com. It features Timmy O’Neill highlining in Cracked Canyon at the Ophir Wall, San Juans, Colorado, and discussing why he loves mother nature.  Rick Ridgeway profile by The Conservation Alliance and Timex ExpeditionTimex Expedition has introduced Return to the Outdoors, a joint endeavor with Conrad Anker and the Conservation Alliance to inspire Americans to get outdoors and reconnect with nature. Here is the latest of a series of short films meant to inspire adventurers like yourselves to share your own outdoor experience at returntotheoutdoors.com. It features Rick Ridgeway surfing in Mexico and discussing why he loves mother nature. |
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