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 Straight out of Africa - FEATURE LENGTH
Video by Louder Than 11 - Brian Antheunisse, Scott Cory, Rob D'Anastasio, and Dave Wetmore travel to Rocklands, South Africa, on a bouldering safari. Follow the crew as they climb more than 20 boulders from V8 to V13, narrowly avoiding being eaten by lions, all to a 1980s soundtrack! Problemes include Amphitheatre (V12), Black Mango Chutney (V10), Golden Virginia (V11), Paula Abdul (V10), Power of One (V13), Witness the Sickness (V11), and many more.  Islands: Traditional Tales of Lakeland Climbing
Video by Dom Bush/Land and Sky Media - ‘Islands: Traditional Tales of Lakeland Climbing’ is a three-part film which gives an insight into the world of hard traditional ascents in the birthplace of rock climbing, the English Lake District. 'Islands' features fantastic footage of first ascents and hard repeats of routes from E6 (5.12c) to E9 (5.13c) by Wild Country and Red Chili climbers Adam Hocking and James McHaffie, as well Lakes stalwarts Mike Przygrodzki and Stuart Wood. It also features interviews and commentaries from Lakes legend and Wild Country climber Dave Birkett and the indefatigable Leo Houlding.  Alizée Dufraisse climbing 5.14b in Ceüse
Video by Prana Living - "L’Arcadémicien des Crépis is a really hard route: old style, technical and mentally hard. Everything natural in Demi Lune sector of Ceüse. It took a lot of time for me, but I really wanted to do it, so I did it!" —Alizée Dufraisse on L'Arcademicien (5.14b), which she climbed in 2010. Recently, she redpointed her hardest route yet, Patinoso (5.14c), in Siurana, Spain. See Dufraisse on Patinoso here.  Rumbling Bald in October
Video by Jonathan Carter - Bouldering in Rumbling Bald on an unseasonably cold day in October. Problems include The Ladder (V1), Kung Fu Grip (V5), Karma Police (V8), Full Contact (V8), Politician (V8), Brackish Water (V8), and more. From the Carolina Climbers Coalition: "Southern exposure, classic lines of all grades and world class bouldering make Rumbling Bald a mandatory part of the winter climbing circuit in the South. From long slab routes to overhung roof cracks, Rumbling Bald has something for everyone."  Bishop Classics
Video by Alton Richardson - Alton Richardson and the Ground Up Collective present a collection of classic boulder problems from the spring 2011. Richardson, Eric Sanchez (click here to see Sanchez on Dreams of White Porsches, 5.13b), and Fabian Dior Siwajian on problems like Strength in Numbers (V5), Secrets of the Beehive (V5), Bowling Pin Sit (V6), Rave (V7), Fly Boy Sit (V8, flash), Disco Diva (V8), and Xavier's Roof (V11). Also features third ascent footage of Half Shark Alligator, Half Man (V11).  Dan Beall on Direct North (V14), Buttermilks, California
Video by Dan Beall - Dan Beall recently made the third ascent of Shawn Diamond's link-up problem Direct North on the Grandma Peabody boulder in the Buttermilks, California. Diamond made the first ascent in 2009. The problem starts on Direction (V13, another Diamond problem) and finishes on Magnetic North (V9/10). French climber Guillaume Glairon-Mondet made the second ascent of the line in early spring 2011. This video shows Beall's attempt right before his ascent.  Gabriele Moroni Climbs Bella Regis (5.14c), Trento, Italy
Video by Gruppo Struktura - Italian climber Gabriele Moroni climbs his route Bella Regis ["looks like the prow of a ship," Moroni says] (5.14c) at Bus de Vela, Trento, Italy. This crag hosts a dense concentration of some of Italy's hardest routes. Moroni bolted and made the first ascent of this line in October 2011. "To tell the truth, I had never seen such a wall in Italy," Moroni says in the video. "So many aesthetic lines... In Italy you cannot find such a concentration of difficult routes."  Alizée Dufraisse on Patinoso (5.14c), Siurana, Spain
Video by phil - French climber Alizée Dufraisse has repeated the climb Patinoso (5.14c) in Siurana, Spain. According to ukclimbing.com, she was aiming to climb the route Chikane, an 80-foot 5.14c in the Campi Qui Pugui sector. She instead redpointed Patinoso, a 130-foot endurance route in the El Pati sector. This is Dufraisse's first of the grade; previously, she had climbed two 5.14b's, including l'Arcadémicien in Céüse in 2010—a 5.14b established by Sylvain Millét that had not seen a repeat since a hold broke on the route.  Nalle Hukkataival Flashes Crown of Aragorn (V13)
Video by ZeroSkillz - Nalle Hukkataival's been tearing through the United States recently. The Finnish climber has spent the last several weeks traveling through Colorado, Utah, and Texas. He began by climbing Circadian Rhythm (V13) in Poudre Canyon, and has crossed more than 10 V11s or harder off his list since. His hardest yet was Esperanza (V14) in Hueco, but his most impressive may have been his flash of Crown of Aragorn (V13), shown here. Watch him on Esperanza here.  Sasha DiGiulian on Pure Imagination (5.14d)
Video by Adidas Outdoor/Andy Mann - On October 15 2011, Sasha DiGiulian became the first American women to climb the grade 5.14d with her historic ascent of Pure Imagination in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. Says DiGiulian about being the third woman behind Josune Bereziartu and Charlotte Durif to climb 5.14d: “I’m glad to be the first American woman to do 5.14d,” she says. “The men were progressing so much quicker than women, but there’s no reason for that. Women are training just as hard. I think a lot of it is just intimidation by numbers. I think it’s just a matter of pushing yourself, and not limiting yourself mentally.”  Pawtuckaway Bouldering in December
Video by Eric Heiden - From mountainproject.com: "Located in Raymond, New Hampshire, Pawtuckaway State Park is the southernmost of the major climbing destinations in the state. Hundreds of glacial erratic boulders line the forests while the assorted and scattered crags stay mostly out of sight. The three small mountains of Pawtuckaway are the remains of a ring dike formed by an extinct volcano and the rock is a smooth but fully textured granite of a different quality than the climbing elsewhere in this so-called Granite State."  Magnus Midtboe's Training: One-finger Pull-ups
Video by DagensNaringslivTV - Here's a video of Norwegian climber Magnus Midtboe's training regimen, including one-finger pull-ups and one-armed pull-ups with weights. Midtboe has climbed up to 5.15b (Ali Hulk, Rodellar, Spain) and V15 (Blood Redemption, Norway). He recently finished the route Nordic Flower in Norway, which Jorg Verhoeven gave 5.14d. "I’m not sure about the 5.14d grade, but on such a beautiful route, I don’t think the grade even matters. Without doubt the most beautiful route I have ever done!" he said about Nordic Flower.  Little Rock City Classics
Video by David Heerema - In August 2011, David Heerema began a one-year leave from his job in Canada and started traveling. After returning to Canada from Europe in November, he turned right around and hit the road for the southeastern United States. This video highlights a few of the many classic climbs to be found at Little Rock City (aka Stone Fort) near Chattanooga in Tennessee. Problems include The Wave (V6), Spyro Gyro (V7), Instinct Low (V10), Tennessee Thong (V7), and Storming the Castle (V1).  The Rocklands Files
Video by Ben Grubb - "In September 2011, me, my girlfriend Snooky, and our friends Matt & Jen flew the 6,000 miles (more or less) due south to visit the bouldering paradise of Rocklands in South Africa. Our trip was pretty short (in climbing trip terms), but in the two weeks we were there, we crammed a hell of a lot in! This video is a hugely condensed down account of what we did and saw, along with a choice selection of some of the incredible boulder problems we tried while there. Some of the classic problems featured include The Roof is on Fire (V5), Up The Spout (V3), Mary's Roof (V4), Esoterrorist (V6), Minki (V8) and Dirty Lies (V7), plus a fair few others which we enjoyed."  Adam Taylor on The Tube (5.14)
Video by Sean Stewart - Red River Gorge, Kentucky, local Adam Taylor climbs The Tube (5.14). Taylor has climbed the Red's hardest routes, including his recent first ascent of the direct start to Southern Smoke, which he thinks could be 5.15a. (The original route is 5.14c.) This would make not only the Red's hardest route, but the hardest line in the Southeast. Says Taylor about the grade: "It depends on style, and it's hard to grade." Will it stand? "Maybe, I'm not sure," he says. "I don't really care." Read more about his Southern Smoke ascent here.  Gabriele Moroni on Riti Tribali (5.14c) in Italy
Video by Granze - Italy's Gabriele Moroni climbs Riti Tribali (5.14c) at Angelone in Specchio del Grifone, Italy. This was the second ascent after Adam Ondra, who established the route in 2009. It only took Moroni four attempts. Said Ondra about the route: "Strange climbing on slopers." Less than two weeks ago, Moroni climbed Masoniamoci, another 5.14c in Masone, Italy, and another route of Ondra's. Both climbers believe Masoniamoci could be 5.14d.  Conrad Anker in Hyalite Canyon, Montana
Video by Black Diamond - Conrad Anker is a master of ice climbing—at the crags and in the mountains. BD caught up with him at his home in Bozeman, Montana, and went out for a day of swinging tools with him on Black Magic, a classic mixed line in nearby Hyalite Canyon. Conrad overdosed us with caffeine in the pre-dawn hours, entertained us with tales of climbing with his best friend, the late, great Alex Lowe, as we drove up the canyon, and then belted out The Clash's "The Guns Of Brixton" as he burned through a couple laps on the WI4 pitch. Look for an article on Hyalite Canyon in the December/January issue of Climbing, on newsstands now!  Adam Ondra on Gioia (V16), Varazze, Italy
Adam Ondra made the second ascent of Christian Core's Gioia yesterday, confirming that it felt like a V16 boulder problem. In an interview with planetmountain.com, Ondra says: "Every single move is at the very limit and so I do think it's V16. I'd compare it in difficulty to Terranova [V16]. If you were to give this V15, then the bouldering grades wouldn't make much sense anymore. You'd have to downgrade all the V14 and most of the V15s as well. When Christian sent the problem he thought it could be V16, but he first suggested V15 to play things safe. I can only congratulate him for this superb ascent three years ago."  Nalle Hukkataival Climbs Esperanza (V14)
Video by ZeroSkillz - Nalle Hukkataival recently repeated one of Hueco Tanks' testpieces, Esperanza (V14), a problem established by Fred Nicole. On 27crags.com, he states: "Pretty unique problem! Climbed it when it was raining. Had to change my beta because it was so humid. Must be the most classic contrived drop-off in the word?" Hukkataival's last V14 was a first ascent in Finland, which he called Circus Elephant Syndrome. More about that here.  Joe Kinder: Sometimes Sending, Sometimes Sucking, Always Psyched
Video by Sterling Rope - In this episode, Joe Kinder steps in front of the lens (props to Collette) and reflects on being “on the road again.” While in Nice, southern France, he talks about checking out new routes, testing out new areas, sometimes sending, sometimes "sucking," but always psyched on trying! Joe and his girlfriend Collette live the climbing life! Follow along in this video series filmed and edited by Joey Kinder while he travels the globe connecting with some of the best climbers in the world |
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