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 Two from the Colorado High-Country
Video by Chad Greedy / www.hardclimbs.com - Despite a stormy month of June, locals and visiting climbers alike made a super-strong start to the alpine bouldering season in Colorado. Among the granite boulders below Mt. Evans, Dave Graham nabbed the first ascent of Big Worm (V14), which was soon repeated by Chris Schulte and Paul Robinson. Finnish boulder Nalle Hukkataival stayed in Colorado for a couple of weeks after the World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games, and made the most of his time with the fourth ascent of Jade (V15), a new V13, and a couple of speedy V13 repeats.  John Bachar - July 2008 Interview Extract
Video by Dave Gill / SteepMedia.com - John Bachar fell while soloing at the Dike Wall near Mammoth Lakes in California on July 5th 2009. We met up with John in July 2008, in Mammoth Lakes, California and filmed a great interview with him. Here is some of that interview, which hopefully shows some of John's mindset, ethos and humor. Our deepest condolences go out to John's family and friends.  The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 29: The Dreamer
By Fitz Cahall - "I had convinced myself at that point that my goal was so important it was worth dying for," says alpine master Steve House about his 15-year-old dream of climbing the Rupal Face. Big Dreams require big commitment. We may not all dream on the same scale and commitment levels, but we all share dreams. They pull us through our lives on solid ground.  Frédéric Moix on Underground Paradise (V14)
Video by Rouzeau Michaël - Frédéric Moix making the 3rd ascent of the 40-move Underground Paradise (V14), in September 2008, on the famed Barme de la fée d’Aron boulder in Fionnay, Switzerland. Shepherds often sheltered under the barme which is also home to Scarred for Life (V14) and a V15+ project. “You get crazy light around the summer solstice,” says Moix. “It comes through one cave, lighting the place in a particular way for a few minutes only. It’s a big ray of light at the center of the boulder, with a reflection all around.”  Catching Reality
Video by Emil Sergel / catchingreality.com - "Catching Reality" stars Swedish rockstar, musician and Petzl Team athlete Said Belhaj road tripping around Morocco on a journey between traditional music and hardcore climbing. This portrait of Said Belhaj is 17 minutes long, features climbs in Morocco's Todra Gorge and focuses on his two passions: climbing and Gnawa music. The movie is unique because it originally premiered first, and exclusively, on the Internet March 13th, 2009 to viewers around the world.  Footloose and Fancy Free
Videos by Djamila Proft - Andreas Proft is a 36-year-old globe trekker from Saxony, in Eastern Germany, who started climbing about 15 years ago. Andreas and his wife Djamila, are relatively stationary now and have been touring around European climbing areas in their campervan for the last six years. Typically they stay in Germany during the summer and travel to the south (France, Spain or Italy) when it starts getting cold.  2009 Squamish Mountain Festival - Teaser
Video by ARC'TERYX - August 12–16, 2009 in Squamish, BC - Returning for 2009, the 3rd annual Squamish Mountain Festival is ramping up to draw in locals and visitors alike. Focusing mainly on climbing and its surrounding culture the event also encompasses complementary activities such as yoga, a themed party and its first ever trail run. There is a film festival and photography contest (Steep Shot Photo Shoot Out), educational climbing clinics and a Dyno competition, where climbers from around the globe will compete for the biggest jump.  The First Ascent of Southern Crossing (V 5.11+), Namibia, AfricaVideo by Chris Alstrin / alstrinfilms.com - Majka Burhardt, Peter Doucette, and Kate Rutherford have climbed two new big wall routes: Southern Crossing (V 5.11+) and Painted Giraffe (V 5.9+), on the 1300-foot Brandberg, Namibia’s highest peak, in Southeastern Africa. But that’s only part of the story. There’s also a 2,000+ year-old painted giraffe, 108-degree temperatures, eight days at 15km/hour over washboard roads, scorpions, laser sharp granite cracks, crumbling granite faces, cobras, realized conservation, weathered maps, and rugged mountain passes. Read more.  A Video Tribute to Our Friends - Jonny, Micah and Wade
Video by adventurefilm.org - This movie was put together with the help of friends and family of Jonny Copp, Micah Dash and Wade Johnson. Just a two minute introduction into the lives of these three amazing humans. There is audio narration, so make sure your volume is up.  AAC Tribute to Jonny, Micah & Wade
Video by David Maren / AmericanAlpineClub.org - Jonny Copp and Micah Dash were longtime, generous supporters of the AAC: doing benefit slide shows, manning the club’s booth at the Outdoor Retailer and other events, and donating many photos and stories to the American Alpine Journal and other AAC publications. In fact, Jonny and Micah’s first ascent of the Shafat Fortress in India was featured in the 2008 AAJ.  Micah Dash and Johnny Copp segment from Sender Film's "The Sharp End"
Video produced by Wade Johnson / SenderFilms - This is a segment from the Sharp End which really captures just how bad ass Jonny and Micah were on and off the rock. Wade did a lot of work on this segment so it stands a great tribute to these three vibrant souls who were tragically lost in the Sichuan Mountain Range of China. Long Live Micah Dash, Jonny Copp and Wade Johnson. Courtesy of Cedar Wright via verticalcarnival.blogspot.com  Vertical Carnival Dispatches - Video #26 "Super Herois"
Video by Cedar Wright / verticalcarnival.blogspot.com - This dispatch features local hardman Magråo on another Serra do Cipo, Brazil mega-classic called "Super Herois," a 58 meter 28 quickdraw journey up some of the best stone I have ever climbed on. The moves are sustained, gymnastic, and in your face! You get to the top of this one and you feel like a Super Hero! Part of what makes this project unique is that everything from the original music to the on the fly edits has been recorded and edited in the field by Cedar using an HMC 150, a macbook pro, Final Cut and Garageband.  The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 28: 60 Meters to Anywhere
By Fitz Cahall - "Is there a statute of limitations on finding something you're passionate about? Is there a certain age when learning something new becomes too much to take on, or we become to afraid to fail or afraid to let others see us fail?" writes Brendan Leonard. A few Christmases back, Brendan received a rather strange gift from his brother - an old rope.  TRINITY 2 Evolution - TrailerVideo by Florian Murnig / dynamo.at - TRINITY 2 Evolution features Tyrolean climbers Dani Eder and Andi Mölk, and Vienna climber Berni Fiedler in search of hard, beautiful lines. Their quest leads them on great journey to the most hidden spots in the valley of Zillertal, classic limestone in Slovenia, to extremely hard moves in the forests of Vienna and to the gigantic boulders on island Tinos, Greece. Watch them send projects, repeating classics and explore new places.  The Players - TrailerVideo by Brian Solano / BS Productions - The Players are the best American athletes of the modern rock-climbing era. Dave Graham, Chris Sharma, Emily Harrington, Daniel Woods, Lisa Rands, Joe Kinder, Alex Puccio, Chris Lindner, and Ethan Pringle each embody the progression of their sport. This showcase of action-packed HD footage reveals each player’s ability to make climbing at the pinnacle of their sport a daily routine. Featuring all disciplines of climbing, this is your chance to witness the swagger behind each players' style and explore the lifestyles they are pioneering all across the globe. Now available on DVD at ThePlayersMovie.com  The Dirtbag Diaries - The Shortz - The Great White Book
By Fitz Cahall / dirtbagdiaries.com - “Life isn’t a bolted sport route,” says writer Scotty Kennedy. “The gear is sketchy and the route is difficult to read.” In 2001, Scott and his wife Sophie were living in the States. Scott was interning at a magazine. Sophie was dirtbagging it in Camp Four. On weekends, they would meet up to climb in Yosemite’s high country, Tuolumne.  Ujjero Bouldering Competition
Video by Adam Krajcs and Boros Gergely / magnezia.blog.hu - On March 13th, 2009, in Budapest, Hungary, climbers gathered for Ujjero Gym's Bouldering Competition. The word "Ujjero" translates to finger strength, and Csaba Komondi, the men's victor this year, needed quite a bit to secure the win.  Brian Kim on the Cybernetic Wall (5.13d)
Video by Paul Jung/ Bass For Your Face - Scott Franklin, Jerry Moffat, Al Diamond, and now Brian Kim has finally made a repeat of the Shawangunks, New York testpeice — Cybernetic Wall (5.13d) — a techy, bouldery and spicy trad line that has been beating back attempts for over 20 years. Kim reportedly spent a day and a half, attempting the route ground up, pulling the rope and gear with each ascent.  The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 27: The Cowboy and the Maiden
By Fitz Cahall - In September 2008, Chad Kellogg and climbing partner Dylan Johnson stood atop 6250-meter Siguniang in Western China after completing the 10,000-foot-long SW Ridge. It was a mind-bending ascent through a massive big wall, a razor edge ridge and high altitude ice climbing. The two friends endured days without water and several sleepless nights. Dylan lost 30 pounds over the course of their ascent.  The Borneo Dispatches
Video by Renan Ozturk / Borneobigwall.blogspot.com - Follow Mark Synnott, Conrad Anker, Kevin Thaw, Jimmy Chin, Alex Honnold and Renan Ozturk through six ecozones, on a big-wall free climbing expedition to Borneo's lush Kinabalu National Park. In this eighth video from the Borneo Dispatches the team summits Mount Kinabalu after several weeks of work — "commuting" up and down the wall. |
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