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 Phil Schaal on Midnight Express (V14), Boulder Canyon
Video by Phillip Schaal - Phil Schaal climbs Midnight Express (V14) in Boulder Canyon, Colorado. According to Peter Beal on mountainproject.com: "Up the hill from the south face of Castle is a low outcropping/boulder with an obvious arete and flake. Start low on sharp sidepull with your right hand and a very low sidepull for your left. There have been ascents done starting with the big pinch just left of the right sidepull but the FA was done with the first method. Battle your way past several desperate moves up the flake to a perilous finish at the lip."  "The Long Hope" Trailer with Dave MacLeod
Video by Hot Aches Productions - A trailer for the award-winning The Long Hope film by Hot Aches Productions. St John's Head on the Island of Hoy is a wild and remote 1,150-foot sea cliff. It was first climbed in 1970 by Ed Drummond Oliver Hill. They took seven days to climb the cliff. Now, 40 years later, one of the world's top climbers, Dave MacLeod, sets out to climb the cliff in a single day, finishing with a new desperately hard final pitch up the headwall. MacLeod's historic new climb, The Longhope Route Direct (E11), is captured close-up with the latest HD cameras and contrasted with the challenges of Drummond's first ascent through interviews and archive material. The film also follows Drummond, now in his late sixties and suffering from Parkinson's disease, as he makes a pilgrimage back to St John's Head to look upon the route one last time.  Enzo Oddo in Fontainebleau
Video by Prana Living - "I was born into a family of climbers. My great-grandfather and my grandfather were high mountain guides. They died in the mountains, and now they both lie in the cemetery in Chamonix. My great grandmother and my grandmother climbed in Fontainebleau, and my parents and my sister are also climbers. Climbing is part of our family story! (or you could say... Climbing is a family thing!...)" —Enzo Oddo  Sean McColl at the Kranj World Cup (1st Place)
Video by Žiga Janež - Sean McColl of Canada took home a gold medal at the Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia in November. McColl is a force in both the Boulder and Lead World Cup competitions—he ranked in the top 10 seven out of 15 times in 2011 events. He ranked sixth overall in the 2011 Lead World Cup. Also in 2011, he won the American Bouldering Series National Championship in Boulder, Colorado.  Rings & Slings Parts 1 & 2- Climbing in Germany
Video by Boreal - Ignasi Tarrazona takes us for a climbing trip to Saxony, Germany—perfect landscapes, beautiful routes, pure adventure. A place to visit, for sure. Enjoy it! Routes include Traum und Wirklichkeit, 1,000 Thor, Ebbe undFlut, Hurengebra, Domane, and Sabel. Find out more about climbing in Germany here.  Ethan Pringle in Fontainebleau
Video by Sandstones - Ethan Pringle and company boulders in Fontainebleau. Problems include Big Jim (V4/5), La Baleine (V6), Double Entorse (V8/9), Entorse (V6), Big Dragon (V11/12), and Tigre & Dragon (V11). 27crags.com has topos of some of the problems, including Big Dragon and Big Jim. Click here to see them.  Gabriele Moroni Repeats Masoniacmoci (5.14c/d) in Italy
Video by Granze - Italy's Gabriele Moroni has repeated Masoniacmoci (5.14c/d) at the crag Masone near Lecco in northern Italy. Adam Ondra established this route in 2009, saying it could be 5.14d. The route starts with a 12-move boulder problem—"a kind of jump start to get a sidepull, two terrible shouldery moves on gastons, a very high foot step, a crazy small undercling to match, and a final brutal deadpoint move to get a slopey rail," says Moroni on his blog. And that's only the bottom section... Read more here.  Jorg Verhoeven on Pure Imagination (5.14d), RRG
Video by Jorg Verhoeven - Jorg Verhoeven was a strong force in this year's Lead World Cup circuit, but when he wasn't pulling down on plastic, he was crushing outside as well. Here, he climbs Pure Imagination (5.14d) in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky. Pure Imagination was established by Jonathan Siegrist in November 2010 and repeated by local Adam Taylor in spring 2011. Verhoeven's ticklist also includes 50 Words for Pump (5.14c), Southern Smoke (5.14c), and 25 routes in the 5.13a to 5.13d range, most onsights or flashes, according to his blog.  Patxi Usobiaga Climbing in Switzerland's Rätikon
Video by Black Diamond - Patxi Usobiaga has won World Cups, world championships, and onsighted 5.14c. Now? Injuries from a nasty car wreck have forced him to retire from the training rigors required for competition climbing and high-end sport climbing. Patxi, forever obsessed with climbing, has redirected his motivations and aspirations into enjoying the freedom and adventure of multi-pitching on Europe’s endless limestone alpine walls. The video above was shot on the immaculate walls of Switzerland’s Rätikon by Bernardo Gimenez and does a wonderful job of profiling Patxi’s transition in his climbing life.  Bouldering at the Dump, NC
Video by Drexel Bakker - The Boone Beta Crew climbing at the Dump Boulders near Boone, North Carolina, for some classic crushing. Problems climbed include Druid Arete (V4), Doug Reed Roof (V5), Druid Roof (V7), Black Magic Woman (V7), and CigArete (V7). Across the road is the Dump sport climbing area, which has the best concentration of sport climbs in the high country.  Letting Go: Emily Harrington on Waka Flocka (5.14b)
Video by Andy Mann/Evolv Climbing - A video of Emily Harrington on her ascent of Waka Flocka (5.14b) in Rifle, Colorado. This was Harrington's hardest route yet—she put around 50 attempts into the climb before finally sending it in October. It's a powerful and bouldery route, which Harrington says isn't her style at all. Joe Kinder bolted and climbed the route in August 2010. Read more about her ascent here.  Wide Boyz on Century Crack (5.14b), World's Hardest Offwidth
Video by Chris Alstrin - Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker were in the U.S. for eight weeks in search of the most difficult offwidths they could find. Their new climb, Century Crack, is the hardest offwidth in the world at 5.14b. Stevie Haston attempted this route in the 1990s with no success. No one believed the route would ever be climbed... Alstrin Film and Hot Aches Productions have teamed up to document their two-year journey. Read more about Century Crack here.  Bouldering at Farley Ledges, Massachusetts
Video by Jon Glassberg - Jon Glassberg climbs Pipe Dreams (V9) and Stereogram (V10) at Farley Ledge, Massachusetts. From Western Massachusetts Climbers' Coalition: "The rock at Farley, like much of rock in the area, is gneiss. It is characterized by big sloping horizontals, small edges and sweeping features. The climbing at Farley is powerful so bring your guns when you show up. The climbing is best when friction is the highest. This translates generally into ideal spring and fall conditions though the heavily forested area provides ample shade for those hot summer days."  Dark Horse Series 2011/12 Highlights - Comp #1
Video by Louder Than 11 - On November 5, 2011, Metrorock in Newburyport, Massachusetts, hosted the first Dark Horse competition of the 2011/2012 series. Louder Than 11 was on hand to deliver highlights from the event. The next event will be held December 3 at Metrorock in Everett, and the championship event will be held again in Everett on February 4. Winners included Nadya Vorotnikova and Rob D'Anastasio in the pro division. Find out more, register, and see the results at darkhorseseries.com.  Enzo Oddo working Jungle Boogie in Céüse, France
Video by Sterling Rope/Joe Kinder/Colette McInerney - Enzo Oddo is one of the young and very talented climbers from southern France. At only 16 years old, he is consistently climbing 5.14d and 5.15a routes. Enzo is leading the way for the new generation with his fearless efforts on some of the hardest projects like Jungle Boogie in Céüse, France. Enzo devoted himself to this project for weeks with no avail, which is just part of the game when it comes to such high end climbing. He knows that we fail a lot and we only succeed sometimes, but that is what makes our efforts so satisfying.  Neil Gresham Deep Water Soloing in Pembroke
Video by Posing Productions - An exercpt from Hollow Caves in the movie Psyche II: " Deep water solo protagonist Neil Gresham shows us what its all about with one of the U.K.'s hardest deep water solos to date, superb climbing in the stunning setting of Pembrokeshire. Neil's body double, Liam Cook, adds to the entertainment with some big splashes as he attempts routes he's no business being on." Also in Psyche II: Leo Houlding on his El Cap free route The Prophet; Mary Jenner on Bleed in Hell in Borrowdale, the hardest trad route climbed by a female in the U.K., and more.  Rocklands - Summer 2011
Video by Boulderkeskus - A whole bunch of climbers from Finland got together in June 2011 and headed all the way down to South Africa to the legendary Rocklands Boulders. Here is a highlight reel of some of the problems they crushed during their stay, including In Between Dreams (V11), Question of Balance (V8), Claques Pour Nini (V8), Vanity (V6), Impala (V11), Ray of Light (V13), Gegen den Wind (V8), Macho King (V9, flash), and many more.  Kalymnos!
Video by 3 Lost Monkeys - From Kalymnos, Rock Climbing Guidebook, by Aris Theodoropoulos: "The rock of Kalymnos is top-quality limestone. It is a little sharp in places, but free of choss. There is nothing monotonous about climbing on Kalymnos: there is a great variety of rock with slabs, delicate walls, pumpy routes with pockets and stalactites or tufas on overhanging rock and roofs... Many visitors have described the equipping of routes on Kalymnos as 'the epitome of sport climbing.'"  Paul Robinson's V14 and V15 First Ascents near Cape Town, South Africa
Video by Black Diamond Equipment - Paul Robinson spent a couple months down in South Africa, developing a slew of new problems just outside of Cape Town. Robinson had the cameras rolling on all his major V14 and V15 first ascents and has edited together this epic film of the footage. There's some seriously impressive climbing in the film, along with some insightful commentary from Robinson, so sit back, get comfortable and enjoy watching one of the world's top boulderers crush his craft.  Death Proof (V8) First Ascent, RMNP, CO
Video by Wes Walker - First ascent of Death Proof (V8) in Upper Chaos Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. From mountainproject.com: "Upper Chaos Canyon is a very popular bouldering area located west and uphill from Lower Chaos Canyon, above Lake Haiyaha. Truly above treeline and substantially farther to hike to, Upper Chaos Canyon is the essence of alpine bouldering in RMNP. Every kind of problem exists from short, steep, powerful problems such the Skipper Roof problems or tall scary highballs such as Suicide Season." |
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