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 Bouldering at Rocktown, Georgia
Video by Brett Morgan - A gorgeous fall day at Rocktown. Problems include the classics Tunnel Vision (V7), Comet (V5), and The Scoop (V3). Located outside LaFayette, Georgia, Rocktown sits close to the Tennessee border, with easy access to Chattanooga area rock. Large sandstone boulders scatter the woods, with some reaching 30- to 40-feet in height. Features vary from slopers similar to Horse Pens 40, Alabama, to jugs taken from Hueco Tanks, Texas, to unusual formations like what's found on The Scoop.  Secret Agent Man (5.12+), Governor Dodge State Park, WI
Video by Nick Rhoads - Secret Agent Man (5.12+) at Governor Dodge State Park, Wisconsin. Located at the Qual Wal. From mountainproject.com: "The prominent prow as you walk up to the Qual Wall. Discovered and climbed in ca. 1996 by Schlick and Dyer, it starts on an easier face up good holds to a rest. After a shake, figure out a bouldery sequence using a combination of the arete and microscopic holds on the face to a series of bigger and bigger moves to the chains."  Terminator (WI6 M5, 3 pitches), The Trophy Wall, Canmore
Video by Joshua Lavigne - On November 7 2011, Ross Berg, John Freeman, and I climbed T2 (WI6 M5, three pitches) on the Trophy Wall. The conditions were excellent. There was little to no snow on the approach and little evidence of previous traffic. The temps were around 14ºF all day, which seamed reasonable considering it is the beginning of the season. There was evidence that a team had already climbed Terminator, but on further inspection they had only climbed the first pitch. The initial pitch was the crux with some mixed climbing to access the upper ice.  Dixon School Boulders, NC
Video by Drexel Bakker - The Boone Beta crew travels to the Dixon School boulders and climb a few classic lines. Located in Crowder's Mountain State Park, the Dixon School Boulders were secured by the Carolina Climbers Coalition, marking the first officially designated bouldering area in the North Carolina State Parks system. Problems in the video include Classic Overhang (V3), Great New Heights (V3, FA), Galvatron (V3), Depends (V5), Venom (V5), Beelzebub (V5), and Atlas (V7).  Adaptive Climbing Clinic with Ronnie Dickson
Video by Louder Than 11 - The Adaptive Climbing Clinic was first organized in spring 2010 by climber/amputee Ronnie Dickson, who lost his lower left leg at the age of 18. The event was held at Joshua Tree National Park. "Climbing can be intimidating on the surface, but it is really accessible to persons with disabilities," Dickson says in a feature in Urban Climber no. 53 (on newsstands now). "Whether it is something that participants only do once, or something they choose to pursue further, it is a huge accomplishment that can break down personal perceptions of what is really posssible." Read more in UC.  Western Gold Teaser
Video by Savage Films - Western Gold, a feature-length North American bouldering film, will be released on HD Download and DVD in early 2012. Experience the beauty of bouldering in an action-packed film set in the stunning locations of Red Rock, Nevada, Castle Rocks, Idaho, Leavenworth, Washington, and Squamish, British Columbia. From the hardest to the tallest the West Coast has to offer, get ready to see something new.  Petzl RocTrip China 2011 - First Edit
Video by Petzl - This is the first video edit from the 2011 Petzl RocTrip China, which took place in Getu, China, at the end of October. This short, three-minute film is a sample of the climbing that took place during the event. Some of the highlights include Spaniard Dani Andrada's eight-pitch, 5.14b first ascent he calls Corazón de Ensueño, which followed a line through the Great Arch of Getu (see photos here). Chris Sharma was the only one strong enough to belay him, and even he took whippers on this super-steep line.  Mammut Peak Project: Mt. Baker
Video by Mammut - In the biggest peak project in history Mammut USA climbed with some handicapped people the roughly 10,777-foot Mt. Baker in the North Cascades in Washington state. Together with the organizations Paradox Sports, the Access Fund, and the mountain sports equipment supplier Mountain Gear, the Peak Project offered the adaptive community the opportunity to take part in the peak projects on Mt Baker and Castleton Tower.  The Big Empty (5.13c), Foster Falls, TN
Video by Jonathan Carter - Jonathan Brandt climbs The Big Empty (5.13c) at Foster Falls, Tennessee, widely regarded to be the best route at the crag. It rained all day, so only a few routes in the Bunkers were dry. But the solitude, the sound of the rain, and the fall colors made this a very memorable day of climbing.  Carlo Traversi Talks with Bear Grylls
Video by Discovery Channel - "Thanks to my wonderful shoe sponsor Five Ten, I had the opportunity to chat with Bear Grylls about adrenaline for the Degree Men Adrenaline Lab which is a series of commercial web episodes featured on The Discovery Channel. It was a really cool experience and it’s great to see mainstream television showing interest in climbing." —Carlo Traversi  Stone Fort Triple Crown 2011
Video by Zachary Lesch-Huie - A short video from the 2011 Stone Fort leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series. Highlights include bouldering and post-comp party on the 18th hole; Jimmy Webb's first ascent of Palm Beach (V9); sketchy belly flop topouts; and more. Winners include Kasia Pietras (1st), Isabelle Faus (2nd), and Leanna Lockhart (3rd) for women's open; Brad Weaver (1st), Nate Draughn (2nd), and Andrew Palmer (3rd) for men's open. See more results here.  Southern Utah Bouldering - Episodes 1-4
Videos by Zach Bradford - These videos feature bouldering in Utah, including the areas Moe's Valley, Virgin Cave, and Sweet Hills Wash. Climbers are Zach Bradford, Adam Ryder, and Bryce Adair. Problems include The Bounty Hunter (V10), 50 Degrees of Perfection (V9), Yo-Yo Boy (V9), Indolence (V8), RotoKarl (V9), Quad Damage (V8), Bazooka Tooth (V10), The Thing (V10), Psychological Disorder (V10), and many more.  Redemption at Indian Creek
Video by Wes Walker - "After nearly ending it at Indian Creek in 2009, which ended with an expensive helicopter ride back to Grand Junction, I was interested to see if I would enjoy returning or not. I took a 50-foot fall onto the head (no helmet)—cracked the skull, vomited, seizured, then passed out. Woke up from a coma three days later, feeling fine. It was an eerie feeling to walk up to the base of the route again, especially since some of the blood was still visible two years later.  Climbing at the Lilly Boulders, Tennessee
Video by Jimmy Webb - Nate Draughn climbs Testify (V12) and Taylor McNeill climbs Reclusive (V11) and Johnson City (V9) at the Lilly Boulders, Obed, Tennessee. The best times to climb at Lilly are fall and late winter; the season runs from early October through late April. The sandstone boulders feature a lot of roof climbing, with more than 125 problems in the area.  Chris Lindner on Buzzsaw (V10), Black Mountain, CA
Video by Hairless Monkey Films - Chris Lindner climbs Buzzsaw (V10) at the granite boulders in Black Mountain, California. From mountainproject.com: "A variety of boulder problems are found, both in terms of steepness and grades. Located at 7,500 feet, bouldering here is in a beautiful mountain setting—pine trees are as plentiful as the boulders are. Most newcomers to Black Mountain quickly notice two things: 1) the problems here are often tall and off-the-deck; 2) the ratings are HARD for the grade. Fear not—many of the most visible problems are indeed tall (20+ feet in Boulder Basin), but shorter problems can be found if one looks close enough.  Tomorrow I Will Be Gone - Full-length Film
Video by Outcrop Films - "Tomorrow I Will Be Gone" is Outcrop Films' debut feature-length film. Set in the sandstone paradise of Rocklands, South Africa, the film follows a selection of Britain's finest boulderers on their trip, grappling with the best the boulders have to offer. Watch mega classics and Nicole testpieces such as Golden Shadow and Black Eagle. No interviews, no nonsense, just climbing. Featuring Micky Page, David Mason, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Lucinda Whittaker, Sam Whittaker, Scott Gibson, Grant Bateman, Andy Banks, Richard Sharp,e and Nick Brown.  Nalle Hukkataival Bouldering in Fontainebleau
Video by Black Diamond Equipment - Nalle Hukkataival ventured to the iconic blocs of Fontainebleau, France, in early 2011 and pulled off a string of impressive ascents during his stay. Here is a highlight reel filmed and edited by Alvi Pakarinen that brilliantly captures Nalle sending Karma (V12), Elephunk (V13), L'Apparemment (V13), and the stunning dyno of Rainbow Rocket (V11)—to name just a few. After all of Nalle's masterful sendage, you'll want to watch the last 2:30 of the video were Nalle (jacked ankle and all) endures failure after failure after failure on La Puce, a one-move-wonder V11 dyno.  God Module (V11), Horse Pens 40, Alabama
Video by Andrew Minnick - God Module (V11) is a beautiful line at Horse Pens 40, Alabama, put up by James Litz. One of the Southeast's finest, and definitely on the lifetime "to-do" list. It's also one of the hardest lines at Horse Pens, located on the Slider Boulder. The Triple Crown Bouldering Series will pass through Horse Pens on November 4 for its last stop of the year. Check out triplecrownboulderingseries.com for more info on the comp.  Västervik International Boulder Meet 2011
Video by Shawn Boye - Watch Anthony Gullsten, Guntram Jörg, Chris Webb Parsons, and Alex Puccio send some of Västervik's finest boulder problems during the Västervik International Boulder Meet 2011, Västervik, Sweden. Featuring More Than One Way To Skin A Cat (V11), Storm (V11), Goofhead Variant (V12), The Hourglass Sds (V13), The Office Sds (V11), and Namaste (V12).  The Season 2.14: El Cap Dreaming
Video by Fitz Cahall and Bryan Smith - “The List is this ongoing process in my head,” says climber Craig DeMartino. Each season, his mind wanders over past climbs. They bubble to the surface, and Craig makes it a point to go out and repeat them, but over the years, a funny thing happened. The list became less about looking backward and more as a means of looking forward. Craig climbs as hard if not harder than he did before his accident and amputation, so it would only make sense that he would add new, more challenging routes to The List. |
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