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 The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 21: No Car No Problem
By Fitz Cahall - A 1,200-foot rock wall in a wilderness area – that's standard summer fare. In a day and back before dinner? Sounds easy. Without a car? That’s when my climbing partners stopped returning my phone calls. Recreating without a car might seem impossible, but this summer I set out to test the preconceived notion.  The Magic Wood, Switzerland
Join Philipp Hrozek, Ulrike, Korger, Elisabeth Flassbeck and few others on a journey to Switzerland's Magic Wood boulders. Problems featured in this video are the massive roof of Unendlich Geschichte (8a+), the Riverbed (8b), Enterprise Traverse (7a+), and Electric Boogie (8a+).  Timmy O'Neill profile by The Conservation Alliance and Timex ExpeditionTimex Expedition has introduced Return to the Outdoors, a joint endeavor with Conrad Anker and the Conservation Alliance to inspire Americans to get outdoors and reconnect with nature. Here is the latest of a series of short films meant to inspire adventurers like yourselves to share your own outdoor experience at returntotheoutdoors.com. It features Timmy O’Neill highlining in Cracked Canyon at the Ophir Wall, San Juans, Colorado, and discussing why he loves mother nature.  Rick Ridgeway profile by The Conservation Alliance and Timex ExpeditionTimex Expedition has introduced Return to the Outdoors, a joint endeavor with Conrad Anker and the Conservation Alliance to inspire Americans to get outdoors and reconnect with nature. Here is the latest of a series of short films meant to inspire adventurers like yourselves to share your own outdoor experience at returntotheoutdoors.com. It features Rick Ridgeway surfing in Mexico and discussing why he loves mother nature.  Nor'easter - Kevin Jorgeson on Feeding FrenzyKevin Jorgeson boulders Feeding Frenzy, a steep 5.13d sport route at Rumney, New Hampshire. Music by State Radio. The Nor'easter powered by Eastern Mountain Sports is a weekend-long festival of music, sport, and conservation happening September 26-28, 2008 at Tenney Mountain in Plymouth, NH. Visit: noreasterems.com  Nor'easter - Kevin Jorgeson boulders The FlyKevin Jorgeson boulders The Fly, a wicked hard 5.14d/V14 sport route (or boulder problem) at Rumney, New Hampshire. Music by BassNectar. The Nor'easter powered by Eastern Mountain Sports is a weekend-long festival of music, sport, and conservation happening September 26-28, 2008 at Tenney Mountain in Plymouth, NH. Visit: noreasterems.com  The Dirtbag Diaries - The Shorts: The Simple Joy of Moving Upward
By Fitz Cahall - If you plan on calling Craig DeMartino inspirational, he would prefer you wait to see if he can even drag his butt off the ground. After loosing his leg in a climbing accident, DeMartino had to retrain his body and learn his craft all over again. He hoped one day he would compete against the able-bodied, but taking on Chris Sharma in a World Cup? That was beyond dreams.  2008 Reel Rock Film Tour TrailerDuring September and October, The 2008 REEL ROCK Tour will be thrilling crowds from New Paltz to Cape Town and dozens of points in between with the best climbing and outdoor adventure films of the year. Hightlights include: REEL ROCK Filmmaking Competition Winners, Grand Canyon Walls, The Sharp End, South Africa, The Aerialist, and On Sight. For more info visit: www.reelrocktour.com  The Nose Goes Quicker - Part 1Video by Eric Perlman / MastersofStone.com - EXCERPT FROM MASTERS OF STONE 6 COMING SPRING 2009 - The July 2 climb did not begin well. Hirayama took a warm-up lap on the first pitch, a polished, pin-scarred 5.10d. Halfway up, he missed a hold, falling 20 feet. But, said Hirayama, “[The fall] just made me focus more.” And focus they did. The pair counted down together in Japanese — “San, ni, ichi!” — and then Florine hit the stopwatch, with Hirayama firing up the crack. Watch Part 2, Watch Part 3, Watch Part 4  Koh Tao — Adventure Climbing in ThailandBy Nathan Cando / FanaticalFilms.com - Experience the intensity and beauty that is Thailand; the most popular budget-friendly climbing destination in the world! Follow four young climbers Levente Pinter, Alley Dorey, Isaac Caldiero, and Abbey Smith as they travel and climb their way throughout “The land of good karma”.  FIVE (MASTERS OF STONE V)Videos by Eric Perlman - Dean Potter is a human acetylene torch, burning down the walls of the, "impossible." Eyes of a hunting wolf and steel cable physique, this barefoot mountain rescue specialist keeps his exploits in perspective with self-deprecating humor and a deep respect for connection with natural world. Potter's raw power, emotional intensity and deadly commitment reveal a terrifying world at the outer edge of human ability. Steph Davis is beautiful, brilliant and bold...free-soloing 5.12 and 5.11+ on red desert sandstone. Dan Osman's fatal final adventure must be seen to be believed. Hanging by fingertips 3000 feet off the ground with no rope or safety gear, tip-toeing a one-inch strip of nylon across a 120 foot-wide chasm, leaping off cliffs with laughter and fury, Potter and his friends deliver a whole new level of climbing action, set to a high-quality, adrenaline-pounding soundtrack featuring Metallica. For more information visit: mastersofstone.com  Sierra Segment Trailer - Call it what you want
A film by Dave Gill - The Sierra Nevada Range in California hosts some of the most alluring and respected rock rutes in the world. Call it what you want takes an indepth plunge into the intricate topics and controversies that surround the idea of ‘true’ climbing through the eyes of well known, and lesser-known, figures in the climbing world.  Leah Crane on Doctor Crimp and Autopilot - Chironico, Switzerland
Videos by Chris Moran - British boulderer Leah Crane cranks out Autopilot (7b+ / V8) and Doctor Crimp (7c / V9) on the granite of Chironico, Switzerland. This dedicated 19-year-old has been climbing for most of her life (13 years), has been competing for seven years, and lives in Sheffield, England. Visit her blog for more  Cast in Bronze: A video portrait of Boone SpeedVideo by Chuck Fryberger / kalcify.com - Raised in the Mormon town of Lindon, Utah, Boone Sheridan Speed, 42, never quite fit in. Speed's was a dual world, with artistic parents (his father, Grant Speed, is a renowned Western bronze sculptor) who were also devout Mormons. Read More  Street Fighter - Priest Draw, ArizonaTwo chicas, Carrie Cooper and Jill Church work out the moves and send Street Fighter (V7), a 22 move traverse on the perfect limestone pockets of Priest Draw, near Flagstaff Arizona. A Shoot From the Hip Production  The Sharp End TrailerBy Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen / senderfilms.com — Enter the danger zone with legendary climbers Tommy Caldwell, Steph Davis, Matt Segal, Lisa Rands, Ammon McNeely, Alex Honnold, Chris McNamara, Dean Potter, Renan Ozturk, Jonny Copp and many others.  Call it what you want TrailerBy Dave Gill / SteepMedia.com — Following the movements of upcoming UK climber, George Ullrich, the film blends raw energy and action from some of the world's most revered rock climbs with the more delicate issue of ethical practice in the sport.  A Segment Preview - Bachar-Yerian (5.11c R)
Filmed and edited by Dave Gill - Photography by Neil Gill - In this clip from Call It What You Want George Ullrich and Mason Earle are attempting to climb the Bachar-Yerian (5.11c R) on Medlicott Dome in Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park, CA without any fixed protection — only natural gear placements.  Painted Blue Trailer
A film by Robert Rogoz — VideoPhotoProductions.com Follow Canadian ice/mixed climbing master Raphael Slawinski on some exploits in the Canadian Rockies (Whiteman Falls, Redman Sores and Curtain Call) in this clip from the upcoming documentary "Painted Blue". Also in the film will be footage shot on First Winter Ascent of Mt. Temple, as well as a lot of stills from Alaska, the Karakoram and the Rockies.  THIRD STONE FROM THE SUN (MASTERS OF STONE III) and PURE FORCE (MASTERS OF STONE IV)Videos by Eric Perlman - PURE FORCE (MASTERS OF STONE IV)stars DAN OSMAN Speed Free-Solo / Major Air; RON KAUK5.14b Yosemite and Tuolumne CA; CHRIS SHARMA 5.13d Mickey's Beach and Pinnacles CA; ALEX HUBER 5.14d Siurana SPAIN JOHN BACHAR 5.12 Solo Red Rocks NV; KATIE BROWN5.13+ Red River Gorge KY; JB TRIBOUT AND BOBBI BENSMAN: Rifle CO PLUS: Steve Gerberding, Tommy Caldwell, Lisa Gnade, Will Oxx and more. THIRD STONE FROM THE SUN (MASTERS OF STONE III) is Non-stop climbing action from the cutting edge of the sport. America's toughest boulder problems at Hueco Tanks and Yosemite. 5.14C redpoints at the hottest climbing cliffs in southern France. Zone 3 soloing. Women's climbing. Mega free-climbing. Training tips from the best. Freeway climbing. Bandaloop cliff dancing. Live body rope testing with 100+ foot falls. Kauk, Osman, Skinner, Nicole, Tribout and lots, lots more. For more information visit: mastersofstone.com |
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