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 USA Climbing Route-setting Clinic
Video by Brooklyn Boulders - USA Climbing's Level I Routesetting Clinic, hosted by the Central Rock Gym in Hadley, MA. The clinic was taught by Chris Danielson and was held on the 14th and 15th of September, 2011. "The Level 1 clinic is a clinic I designed for USA Climbing about 6 or 7 years ago, and essentially it's an introductory clinic to teach people the fundamentals of route-setting mechanics, theory, and approaches to competition route-setting," Danielson says. "The idea is that you get a lot of different people working together to talk about things like setting for fairness, dividing a field in competition, and creativity."  The Journey to Mystery Mountain - Part 1
Video by Jason Kruk - Part one of the story of an amazing coast range adventure I had with Tony Richardson. We left Bluff Lake in early September 2011 and rafted/bushwhacked/glacier-slogged into the Waddington Range to the South Face of Mt. Waddington (aka Mystery Mountain). The best trip I've ever been on! I thought I'd take the time to learn some post-production skills. Here's my very first attempt at a real edit... Can't wait to do more video stuff—it's such an amazing way to tell a story! Being on the post side of things really helps you behind the lens, I reckon.  One Old, Two New in Boone, NC
Video by Brion Voges - One Old, Two New features Brion Voges and Brad Weaver at Lost Cove Boulders and Hound Ears in Boone, North Carolina. Climbs include Kratos (V12), one of the area's hardest boulder problems; Subject to Change (V11); and Projections (V12). The Triple Crown Bouldering Series visited Hound Ears the weekend of October 1, and had to be postponed due to inclement weather. Click here to see the results.  Colorado Bouldering Tour 2011
Video by Kentaro Suzuki - A tour of Colorado bouldering, including: Lower Chaos Canyon in Rocky Mountain National Park (The Automator, v13; Nuthin' But Sunshine, V13; European Human Being, V12; Secret Splendour, V12; Tommy's Arete, V7); Upper Chaos (Sunspot, V10; 1,000 Shades of Green, V9); Emerald Lake (Whispers of Wisdom, V10); and Mt. Evans (Black Tornado, V7).  Arco World Championships 2011 - Behind the Czech Team
Video by Jack Slowprint - A short documentary about the participation of the Czech team at the World Climbing Championship in Arco, Italy. Adam Ondra took second in bouldering and third in lead, securing him the gold medal for men's overall. The Czech climbers also placed seventh, 43rd, and 85th in men's bouldering; 79th, 91st, 100th, and 123rd in men's lead; 5th and 70th in men's speed; 33rd and 47th in women's bouldering; and 26th and 43rd in women's lead.  The Season 2.9: Almost Home
Video by Fitz Cahall and Bryan Smith - After Cedar was born, Thomasina moved back home and tried to make a go of settling down. Newfoundland provided a sense of home. It was a place where store owners knew locals' names and people helped one another. She managed it for a few months, but after a while the nomadic climber in her needed to leave. For Thomasina, the only thing that could rival the Newfoundland community was the climbing community.  Hound Ears 2011 Recap
Video by Far From Home Productions - A recap of this past weekend at Hound Ears, just outside of Boone, North Carolina. On Saturday, the weather would not cooperate, so the comp was postponed until Sunday. Great climbing, great weekend! Kasia Pietras and Brad Weaver took it home for the open categories, followed by Isabelle Faus and Nate Draughn, and Leanna Lockhart and Andrew Palmer. See the full results here.  StoneNudes with Dean Fidelman
Video by Cedar Wright - Dean "Bullwinkle" Fidelman has been a fixture in the Yosemite climbing scene for nearly 40 years. Through his black and white photographs he has documented several generations of Yosemite Climbers, from the StoneMasters to the RockMonkeys. In 1999 Dean began work on his "StoneNudes" project, one of the most unique art projects the climbing community has ever seen.  Adam Pustelnik and Nico Favresse on Orbayu (5.14a/b) in Spain
Video by Bernardo Gimenez - Nico Favresse and Adam Pustelnik made the first repeat of Orbayu, a multi-pitch line on Spain's Naranjo de Bulnes, which at 5.14c/d had been hailed as the world's hardest big wall free climb. Although the pair felt the route was not as hard as it was originally trumpeted (they graded it more in the 5.14a/b range), they had nothing but high praise for the route's quality.  Committed: East Ridge, Bugaboo Spire
Video by Mark and Janelle Smiley - Bugaboo Provincial Park is an alpine climber’s playground. The campground is beautiful, the rock high quality, and the company entertaining. This was our second time to the Bugs. This sophomore experience was quite a bit different than the previous year. For one, it was about 20 degrees colder. Second, we only “had” to complete the Bugaboo Spire on our list, which is significantly easier than the Becky-Chouinard on South Howser Tower, so the stress level was low.  Six Years of 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell
By Lucas Marshall - 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell hosted another successful event this year in September. About 250 participants gathered to compete at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch to climb for 24 hours straight on Arkansas sandstone, with the goal to climb as many routes as possible. Brent Perkins and Nate Drolete (Team Petzl) won this year, climbing 205 routes up to 5.12d. Colin Haley and Jonathan Thesenga (Team Jala Neti) placed second, followed by Team Chucho Chuco's David McGee and Clay Frisbie in third.  Alex Honnold on 60 Minutes
"60 Minutes" aired an episode last night on CBS that featured Alex Honnold's bold solos in Yosemite, including Chouinard-Herbert (5.11+, 15 pitches) on the Sentinel. According to a CBS report, 14 cameras were rolling during Honnold's CH climb. During the interview, Honnold said, "There is no adrenaline rush, you know? Like if I get a rush, it means that something has gone horribly wrong, you know? Because the whole thing should be pretty slow and controlled and like—I mean, it's mellow."  ARI Equipper of the Year
Video by Cedar Wright - Started by the staff of Climbing magazine, the Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) is an industry-supported program that serves the U.S. climbing community by systematically replacing worn-out or inadequate belay and rappel anchors. Since its inception in 2003, ARI has upgraded more than 500 routes and replaced thousands of aging and dangerous bolts. To find out more about ARI, and how you can get involved, please visit climbing.com/community/ari.  Rocklands 2011
Video by Enzo Nahumury - Ties Linders, Nuno Monteiro, Kieran Amin, Ima Nahumury, James Barnes, and Enzo Nahumury traveled to Rocklands, South Africa, this year. Problems in the video include Human Energy (V6), Cedar Spine (V8/9), Caroline (V10), Witness the Sickness (V11), Springbok (V12), Pinotage (V8/9), Gamelan (V4), Shosholoza (V12), Nutsa (V12), and many more.  Jonathan Siegrist on New World Order (5.14c)
Video by Andy Mann / Maxim Dynamic Ropes - In June 2011, Jonathan Siegrist completed a project at Little Si, Washington, that he called New World Order, and proposed 5.14c. The route starts on Whore of Babylon (5.14b), then breaks left to join Lost Horizons (5.14a). "New World Order climbs to the very top of the cliff, covering nearly 50 meters of stone. The climbing style is very resistant—there is a lot of 5.12+ and harder climbing on this route, with one great rest, and one decent one," he says in an interview. Read more here.  Trailer: Tomorrow I Will Be Gone
Video by Outcrop Films - "Tomorrow I Will Be Gone" is Outcrop Films' debut feature-length, no-nonsense bouldering film featuring a group of strong British boulderers in Rocklands, South Africa. Featuring Micky Page, David Mason, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Sam Whittaker, Lucinda Whittaker, Scott Gibson, Andy Banks, Richard Sharpe, Nick Brown and Grant Bateman. The film will be released for free on the internet on October 31, 2011.  Unified Bouldering Championships - The North Face Open Highlights!
Video by NE2C / Louder Than 11 - A recap of The 2011 North Face Open September 23 and 24 at The Nor'easter, powered by Eastern Mountain Sports in Burlington, Vermont. Angie Payne completed a dominant 2011 UBC season by winning the event in thrilling fashion, while on men's side dark horse Ian Dory was the only man to finish problem #2 and took home the 2011 UBC Championship trophy's! Read more details and see the results here.  Sasha DiGiulian on Aitzol (5.14b) in Spain
Video by Sasha DiGiulian - Sasha DiGiulian climbs Aitzol (5.14b) in Margalef, Spain. Aitzol is just one of seven 5.14s she's climbed in less than a month while in Spain. She redpointed her third 5.14c, Cosi Fan Tutte, and onsighted three 5.13d's (Just Married, Highway 42, and Eclipse Cerebral) and one 5.14a (Maskoking).  The Season 2.5: The Method
Video by Fitz Cahall and Bryan Smith - Spring rains and warmer temps in the south signal Thomasina Pidgeon's annual return to Squamish. For the last decade, the collection of granite eggs stacked beneath The Chief's looming walls have been a touchstone. Each year welcomes a variety of attempts, new discoveries and sends. Tall and proud, The Method is one of Squamish's most difficult boulder problems. It's incredible how 12 feet of stone can define a season. But the conditions can be difficult—exposed to the sun, the micro crimps and delicate foot smears are next to impossible. It's a finicky creature.  The Season Episode 2.3: Itchy Feet
Video by Fitz Cahall and Bryan Smith - Over the last 10 years, Thomasina Pidgeon rose to the top of female bouldering. With multiple V12 ascents to her name, she spends most of her life on the road searching out the next project. Her traveling companion and sometimes climbing partner is her 4-year-old daughter Cedar. How do you balance pursuit of world class boulder problems, life on the road and motherhood? Watch. |
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