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Teaser: Islands: Traditional Tales of Lakeland Climbing
Video by Wild Country - "Islands: Traditional Tales of Lakeland Climbing" is a three-part film, which gives an insight into the world of hard traditional ascents in the birthplace of rock climbing: The English Lake District. A sensitive and informed look at the passion and skill of some of the Lakes modern pioneers, still pushing to find new hard lines and repeat existing test pieces. With sport climbing and bouldering becoming more and more popular, this film provides a deep and often comical perspective on the great British trad climbing tradition.
Chris Schulte's V12 Magic Wood FA
Video by Black Diamond - A short video of Chris Schulte bouldering in Switzerland's Magic Wood. Problems climbed include the first ascent of The Electric Company (V12), Octopussy (V11), and Piranja (V9). Schulte has spent much of his time in Europe in 2011, bouldering in France and Switzerland. Click here to see him climb Partage (V12) and Duel (V11).
First Ski Descent on Denali South Face
Video by Bjarne Sahlen - In July, Swedish extreme skier Andreas Fransson made the first ski descent of the huge South Face of Denali in Alaska. After acclimatizing by skiing the Orient Express coulior twice, he climbed to the summit (20,320 feet) with his partner Magnus Kastengren before descending solo, following for the most part the Haston-Scott Route. He reportedly dispatched the first 1,500 meters in only 30 minutes, but he had to pull up due to icy conditions and downclimb, then rappel four times. Click here to read more.
Dave MacLeod Climbing Centre Court (5.13d/14a)
Video by Gore-tex - "My new route at the Tunga boulder, Ersfjord: Centre Court (5.13d/14a). Mega route. I also bolted an extended start to Piercing (5.13d/14a) which shares the same finish as this route, but since we put our time into Bongo Bar on Blamann, I didn’t get a chance to finish it. So it’s there as a project for some keen locals or visitors. Would be around 5.14b. Go to it! And if you don’t get it, I might just come back sometime soon and do it myself."
The Season 2.1: It Begins...
Video by Fitz Cahall and Bryan Smith - This year, we picked five new athletes each with their own unique storyline. An amputee climber sets his sights on becoming whole again by returning to Yosemite to realize a lifelong dream. A conservationist and angler searches for a fabled ghost run of wild steelhead on one of California’s most troubled rivers. One of the world’s best boulderers struggles to balance her career as a boulderer with raising her daughter. From a burned forest, a vision of an incredible mountain bike trail emerges from the ashes into reality. In the wake of achieving an unthinkable goal, a ski mountaineer returns to the peak where he first met failure.
Threat Level Colombia - Feature-Length Film
Video by Louder Than 11 - LT11 is proud to present "Threat Level Colombia," a documentary about climbing in Colombia, South America—a cultural trip and climbing tour.
A team of seven Americans (Kara Caputo, Jon Glassberg, Jonny Hork, Ben Hoyt, Nic Sherman, Jordan Shipman, and Carlo Traversi) spent two weeks around the capital city of Bogota, searching for new boulders, establishing first ascents, and soaking in some of the best nightlife on the planet.
How to Tie a Figure-Eight Knot
Video by Bluewater Ropes - A demonstration of how to tie the figure eight knot. For professional instruction, please visit amga.com. The strongest tie-in knot you can use is the figure-eight, which, when pull-tested, breaks at 75 to 80 percent of the rope’s full strength. The bowline is a slightly weaker knot, at 70 to 75 percent, followed by the double fisherman’s at 65 to 70 percent. The clove hitch is the weakest of the common climbing knots, at 60 to 65 percent. Read Climbing's "10 Things You Didn't Know About Knots" for more info.
Petzl RocTrip 2011: China - Teaser
Video by Petzl - The Petzl RocTrip is going to China from October 26-30, 2011. It will take place in the Gétû Valley, Guizhou. For the past 10 years, the Petzl RocTrips have been bringing together pro and amateur climbers in amazing locations. Far from the competitive side of the sport, this event allows everyone to enjoy climbing routes developed especially for the occasion. For the 2011 edition, a completely new site has been developed in the heart of China.
The Art of Anna Stöhr
Video by Udo Neumann - The female competitors bouldering at the Arco World Championships in 2011. Austrian Anna Stöhr was the only woman to top all four finals problems, putting her in first place. Sasha DiGiulian came in second, with a flash on number 2, giving her two topouts total. Germany's Juliane Wurm also topped out two problems, but had more attempts than DiGiulian, settling in at third place.
Michele Caminati in Rocklands 2011
Video by Michele Caminati - A few shots from Michele Caminati's Rocklands experience during summer 2011. He has climbed three V13s (Madiba, Derailed, and Mooiste Meisie), four V12s (Black Shadow, V12/13, Barracuda, Armed Response, and Fragile Steps), seven V11s, and eight V10s so far in Rocklands this year.
A Day at Mt. Evans
Video by Max Krimmer - Hayden Miller climbs The Prestige, Equitos (V7), The Nothing (V8) at Mt. Evans, Colorado. Max Klimmer climbs Equitos. Jamie Emerson recently published a guidebook to bouldering in Rocky Mountain National Park and Mt. Evans. Click here for more information, and click here to purchase the book.
Committed: Lotus Flower Tower, Yukon
Video by Mark and Janelle Smiley - "This 2,000-foot climb is truly amazing. From the thousands of miles you have to drive north to the Yukon, to the flight in, to the approach, to the campground, to the climb itself... It's all part of a great experience." So far in 2011, the Smileys have ticked the Finger of Fate in Utah, the West Ridge of Mt. Hunter and the East Ridge of Devil's Thumb in Alaska, the Lotus Flower Tower in the Yukon Territory, the East Ridge of Bugaboo Spire in Alberta, and the North Ridge of Grand Teton in Wyoming. Read more at smileysproject.com.
REEL ROCK Film Tour 2011 Trailer
Video by Big UP Productions and Sender Films - The sixth annual REEL ROCK Film Tour brings you a mind-blowing, palm-sweating pump-fest of new releases from Big UP Productions, Sender Films, and more. Featuring the race for the Nose speed record, a 9-year-old bouldering prodigy, Tommy Caldwell's epic mission to free the Dawn Wall, Andy Lewis' crazed slacklining and BASE jumping antics, the wildest ice climbing ever done, and a near-disastrous winter ascent of an 8,000 meter peak. Check reelrocktour.com for a show near you this fall.
Arnaud Petit Climbs Black Bean (5.13d) with Natural Pro
Video by Bertrand Delapierre - Arnaud Petit climbs Black Bean (5.13d), a fabulous 215-foot route on the Biographie Wall in Ceüse, France, using his own gear for protection. The route was bolted by Bruno Clement. Petit had already climbed the route, and rapped down the wall to find weaknesses for natural pro. He found nine spots. "When I decided to go, I was feeling good and very confident," he says.
Slice of Squam
Video by Posing Productions / Jen Randall - A short film showcasing some of the best bouldering in Squamish, British Columbia. Featuring athletes such as Alex Gorham and problems like Easy in an Easy Chair (V4)—"It's so simple and so clean, and everyone finds it a rite of passage in Squamish"—Shots Fired (V4), and The Egg (V11).
The Island: Part 1
Video by Five Ten - A humorous look at Five Ten athletes Dave Graham and Jon Cardwell giving a little climbing instruction in Rifle, Colorado, in this first behind-the-scenes look at The Island. Regarding the video, Graham says, "We're going to be filming for months and months to come, and I bet it ends because we have too much footage. And that's how this video is going to be. But we're going to have sick stuff, and we're going to keep getting more and more sick stuff, because as it gets colder, people get stronger and motivation gets better."
"Cragging" in the Bugaboos
Video by Joshua Lavigne - Climbing in the Bugaboos is always a highlight of the summer and definitely one of my favourite places to climb. The rugged hike through wildflowers as you climb towards Applebee, the mystic and grandeur of the spires as they glow in the evening light, and the long shadows draped across the glaciers as the full moon rises and a lone headlamp weaves down the Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col. There is something eternally special about the place.
James McHaffie's 2nd Ascent of The Big Bang (5.14d)
Video by Wild Country / Chris Doyle - James McHaffie gets the historic second ascent of The Big Bang (5.14d) on Lower Pen Trwyn, North Wales.
After 15 years of trying, someone finally gets it done (this is a route that eluded Moffat and Moon), and in this video (not the actual ascent), James takes us through a blow-by-blow account of the route, which has some of the nastiest "rat crimps" in the business.
The Season 2 - Trailer
Video by Fitz Cahall and Bryan Smith - Rise up. Become legend. Welcome to The Season 2. A 22-episode web TV series following five athletes through the course of a single season. Available first at arcteryx.com and as a download from iTunes. Visit theseasontv.com for more information on music.
Committed: Devils Thumb via East Ridge
Video by Mark and Janelle Smiley - Only a handful of climbers have set eyes on the Devils Thumb the Stikine Icecap region in Alaska. Even fewer have put their hands on this stone. The weather is notoriously bad there. Some climbers have flown up from the Lower 48, only to sit in Petersburg for 10 days, waiting on clear skies that never came. Read more at smileysproject.com.
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