 |
|
|
 Puccio, Woods at the International Boulder Meet
Video by Martina Scheichl and Dominik Hadwiger - Daniel Woods, Alex Puccio, and more gathered in Västervik, Sweden, for the International Boulder Meet last week. From fiveten.com: "The purpose of the Västervik Boulder Meet is to have climbers from all over the world meet in Västervik, a beautiful city located on the Swedish east coast. Bouldering, partying, sharing experiences, lectures, product testing, presentations, and just basic hanging out together are all on the menu.  Dave MacLeod on Bongo Bar (5.13b, 400 meters)
Video by Gore-tex - Scottish climber Dave MacLeod recently made the first free ascent of the 400-meter, 5.13b aid route Bongo Bar on Blamman, Norway. He cruised up the first two pitches, rated 5.13c, but had a little trouble with wet holds on the third, crux pitch (5.13b). Still, he redpointed the route, leading every pitch save for no. 6 (5.11). See more details here.  The North Face Open at The Nor'easter - Teaser
Video by NE2C - The North Face Open, the season finale of the UBC Pro Tour, takes center stage at the Nor'easter Outdoor Sports + Music Festival in Burlington, Vermont, September 23 and 24. Register for The North Face Open at ubcprostore.com. All registered athletes receive a FREE weekend pass to the Nor'easter powered by Eastern Mountain Sports. For more information, visit noreaster.ems.com.  Boulder World Cup Report 2011: Munich
Video by Udo Neumann - The IFSC Bouldering World Cup closed last Saturday with the event in Munich, Germany. The competition awarded the World Cup titles to Austrians Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber, although neither of them stepped up for the first place in Munich. In the women's field, Slovenian Mina Markovic gained the gold medal with 3 tops out of 4, followed by Juliane Wurm and Stöhr. Russian Dmitry Sharafutdinov shows again his great shape with four boulders climbed on first attempt.  Paul Robinson in Cape Town, Part I
Video by La Sportiva / Marijus Smigelskis - Paul Robinson went on a recon mission to a new area outside of Cape Town, South Africa, and found some true gems. Follow along with Paul on some of his favorite problems and stay tuned for Part II when it really gets good. While there, Paul proposed a new V15 he called A Simple Knowing. This video shows his first ascents of Marlboro Man (V11), Brainwash (V9), and Zodiac (V12), and a flash of Captain Grafitti (V11).  On Assignment in Yosemite
Video by Camp 4 Collective - "As a climber, sometimes our biggest job is to try to do justice to the amazing stories of our friends and peers. For this piece, I worked with our crew at camp4collective.com to tell The North Face athlete Jimmy Chin's story as he in turn highlights modern day climbing in Yosemite for a National Geographic feature story. It seemed so serendipitous to be 'on assignment' in a place that we all cut out teeth as adventurers and which also ended up becoming the namesake of our collective!" —Renan Ozturk  Hazel Findlay on The Rainbow of Recalcitrance (5.12c)
Video excerpt by Hot Aches Productions - In honor of Wild Country climber Hazel Findlay's amazing E9 ascent recently (Once Upon a Time in the Southwest in Devon), we've uploaded some cool footage showing her in action climbing The Rainbow of Recalcitrance (E6 6b, or 5.12c) in Llanberis slate quarries. Taken from the film "Monkey See, Monkey Do" by Hot Aches Productions.  Weapon Omega (V12), Flock Hill, New Zealand
Video by Derek Thatcher - James Morris gets the second ascent of Weapon Omega (V12), one of the hardest problems at Flock Hill, New Zealand. Flock Hill has high-quality limestone on the south island. From ukclimbing.com: "An epic venue which conjures images of forgotten ruins of a magnificent temple complex. This sector is a wild and adventurous venue. The rock here is more featured than the rest of the valley and thus the climbing style is more conventional. Pockets, crimps and good friction are in abundance and the top-outs are less likely to test your grovelling ability."  Committed: West Ridge of Mt. Hunter
Video by Mark and Janelle Smiley - Climbing in the Alaskan Range is the real deal. We had our eyes set on climbing the Cassin Ridge on Denali. With all that planning and prep for the climb itself, we missed the critical deadline for the climbing permits. The park requires 60 days notice prior to flying on. I had given them 30 days, and as in many government organizations, there were no exceptions to the rule. So at the last minute we changed gears and set our site on the West Ridge of Mt Hunter. Read the rest of the trip report at: smileysproject.com.  Threat Level Colombia: Official Trailer
Video by Louder Than 11 - Seven Americans traveled to South America on a two-week search and climb mission to Colombia. The team consisting of Boulder, Colorado’s finest will attack the Colombia scene at full force, diving head first, establishing first ascents, experiencing wild nightlife, and creating no holds barred adventure. The local contacts in Bogota passed on intelligence that will lead to a climbing strike force focused primarily on hard first ascents on Colombian sandstone. Climbing by day and partying by night, this elite team of travelers came away from this adventure with action packed highlights to entertain the masses. Pick up the latest issue (August, #50) of Urban Climber for a feature on bouldering in Colombia.  Cassin Ridge Single Push on Denali
Video by Jonathan Griffith - Here's a short video about my last trip to the Denali range with Will where we climbed the West Buttress on Denali and single-pushed the huge Cassin Ridge on its south face. Round-trip from 14,000 feet camp of 21.55 hours... exhausting!  Mike Stam: Fear of Commitment
Video by T.C. Webb - Mike is not only an amazing climber, but he is one of the nicest people you will ever meet. A true inspiration not only to me, but the whole climbing community in North Carolina. Mike and I talked about shooting this project for eight months before finally getting around to it. It was worth the wait. Here, Mike talks about climbing on the river and makes the first ascent of Fear of Commitment.  Webb and Woods: Colorado Summer
Video by Rami Annab and Daniel Woods - Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb bouldering in Mt. Evans and Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Woods climbs the second ascent of Nownudda (V11). Webb flashes Fireball (V10), gets the second ascent of Hernia (V12), and climbs Next Friday (V11) and Freaks of the Industry (V13). Freaks had to be dug out of the snow with a shovel.  Ethan Pringle on The Wheel of Life (V16/5.14d)
Video by Ethan Pringle - In June 2010, Ethan Pringle bagged the third ascent of The Wheel of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave at the Grampians, Australia. After its first acsent in 2004 by Japanese climber Dai Koyamada, it was given a tentative grade of V16. Chris Webb Parsons managed the second ascent in October 2007. Pringle feels the route warrants a grade of 5.14d, as the line encompasses 60-plus moves of V9 through V12. See a full interview with Pringle about his ascent here.  Talo Martin's FA of Repudiado del Edén (5.13d)
Video by Wild Country - A great new video here of Talo Martin, Red Chili and Wild Country climber, on the first ascent of Repudiado del Edén, 5.13d at Cavallers, a granite paradise situated close to the French border in northern Spain. Talo has done quite a few first ascents here, but this is the hardest. And he still has an 5.14b project to go...  Committed: Finger of Fate, The Titan
Video by Mark and Janelle Smiley - We had our eyes set on completing #28 of our quest: The Titan via the Finger of Fate route in the Fisher Towers group. At 900 feet tall, the Titan is the largest freestanding sandstone tower in North America. Utah is home to several different types of sandstone, all of which vary in hardness. The majority of the Titan is made of “mudstone," and as its name implies, it is the softest and scariest type of sandstone. Read the rest of the report at smileysproject.com.  Alan Cassidy on Metalcore (5.14c)
Video by Matt Pycroft - A short film of Alan Cassidy completing the third ascent of Dave MacLeod's Metalcore (5.14c) at the Anvil, Loch Goil. Metalcore was Alan's first 5.14c, and has been a labor of love since the summer of 2010. MacLeod opened the route in 2007, with Malcolm Smith making the second ascent.  Chris Sharma on Ropes, Future of Climbing
Video by Sterling Rope / Joe Kinder / Colette McInerney - Take an inside look at the thoughts and experiences of Chris Sharma as he explains why he chooses the Fusion Nano as his rope of choice and shares with us his passion for climbing and pushing the limits of the sport. "I spend so much time dangling at the end of a rope," Sharma says. "I definitely put a lot of trust in the rope that I use."  Cedar Wright Does Ten Sleep
Video by Black Diamond / John Dickey - Cedar Wright recently escaped the heat of the Colorado Front Range for the cool summer-sending temps of northern Wyoming's Ten Sleep Canyon. Ace lensman John Dickey was on the scene and put together the following video clip of Cedar that highlights the sweetness of Ten Sleep.  Nina Caprez on Fish Eye (5.14b)
Video by Nina Caprez - Nina Caprez climbs Fish Eye (5.14b), in Oliana Spain, in April 2011. She needed only five attempts in two days. "All the physical part in the bottom of the route I had to climb really quickly because I was out of power," she says. "But in the higher part I felt like in my element. Vertical, technical, little crimpy holds. This is my style." |
Get 2 free trial issues
plus a free gift!
plus a free gift!
Copyright 2010 Skram Media LLC, All rights reserved.