2011 Spot Bouldering Series: Highballs and Highlines
Photos by Alton Richardson - Highballs and Highlines was the theme for the third comp of the 2011 Spot Bouldering Series at The Spot Gym in Boulder, Colorado. Slackliners impressed the crowd by doing yoga positions, spins and handstands, attempted back flips, and more. In the climbing comp, the men's finals problem involved large moves to slopey pinches and a full-on dyno. The women's final had dynamic movement in the middle negotiated by campusing or reachy hand-foot matches, leading to a static upper crux with big lock-offs on pinches. To see the results, click here.
Greg Epperson: A Retrospective
Greg Epperson has contributed to Climbing since 1986. His work includes 20 Climbing covers and countless Gallery images, some among the very best climbing images every published, anywhere. "Epi" has shot in every variety of vertical environment, in all conditions, but is most appreciated for two things: the humanity of his action images, and his "small man in big nature" studies—light, texture, color, and geometry, played out on vast planes of the world's most beautiful rock. Here, we present an all-too-short retrospective of Epi's work.
Climbing Staff Trip: Shelf Road, Colorado
Photos by Alton Richardson - In November, the staff of Climbing managed to escape deadline stress for two days to take a trip down to Shelf Road near Canon City, Colorado. Clear blue skies, temperatures in the 50s, and a laid-back atmosphere accompanied the team while they played around on Shelf's sharp limestone pockets. Here, art intern Alton Richardson stretches his photographer legs to shoot editor in chief Dougald MacDonald, associate editor Amanda Fox, gear editor Julie Ellison, contributing writer Laura Snider, and Urban Climber editor in chief Andrew Tower while they climb, test gear, relax in the sun, and enjoy two days off from the office.
Jim Thornburg's Stone Mountains - A Sneak Peek
Photos by Jim Thornburg - Stone Mountains: North America's Best Crags is photographer Jim Thornburg's magnum opus: an eight-pound, large format, 320-page photography book that's been 20 years in the making. The images here are a teaser picked from more than 500 featured in the book. Thirty-five favorite destinations are featured:Joshua Tree, the Shawangunks, Potrero Chico, Squamish, the Red River Gorge, and Indian Creek, to name a few. See more at jimthornburg.com/book.html
Lead World Cup - Boulder, Colorado
Photos by Alton Richardson - More than 1,300 people packed into Movement Climbing + Fitness on Sunday, October 9, to watch the Lead World Cup in Boulder, Colorado. Jakob Schubert and Johanna Ernst of Austria won, each having made the clear high point on their respective routes (no one finished the routes). Sachi Amma of Japan and Mina Markovic (who was first going into finals) placed second, followed by Romain Desgranges of France and Momoka Oda of Japan. This is Schubert's sixth consecutive win in a Lead World Cup. Our own Sasha DiGiulian and Matty Hong were the sole Americans to make finals, and each climbed well, placing seventh and sixth, respectively. To read the full report, click here.
Rock Climbing in Greenland
Photos by Toni Lamprecht - The south of Greenland offers an incredible wealth of technical rock climbing on big granite faces, some of them directly over the ocean. Tasermiut Fjord has seen most of the climbing activity of the last decades, but some climbers have ventured further south to climb on the more remote islands and fjords around the Inuit settlement of Aappilattoq. Huge routes have gone up in the Torssukatak Fjord, on Pamiagdluk Island and on other walls in the vicinity. There is still a staggering potential for rock climbing in this area.
Spot Bouldering Series 7: The Gun Show
Photos by Alton Richardson - The Spot Bouldering Gym's seventh annual Spot Bouldering Series: The Gun Show went down this past weekend. Aside from the climbing, the comp offered a barbeque sponsored by La Sportiva and Native Eyewear, a dunk tank (where climbers like Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and Jon Cardwell participated), a huge raffle, free Avery beer, and a pull-up contest. Nina Williams took first place in women's open, with Alex Manikowski winning men's open. See full results here.
Reel Rock World Premiere 2011
Photos by Greg Mionske - The sixth annual REEL ROCK world premiere has come and conquered! Selling out two shows, with a crowd of 1,800 people through the door. Thanks to all the local sponsors: Agloves, The Spot Bouldering Gym, Boulder Rock Club, Movement Climbing and Fitness, First Bank, CU Alpine Club, and the Colorado Daily. And not to mention our National Sponsors: The North Face, Windstopper, Petzl, Climbing Magazine, Urban Climber Magazine, EVOLV, Sterling Ropes, and Goal0. Be sure to check out the REEL ROCK tour schedule at reelrocktour.com.
2011 Bouldering World Cup: Munich
Photos by Marco Kost - The 2011 Boulder World Cup season wrapped up last weekend in Munich, Germany. Slovenian Mina Markovic and Russian Dmitry Sharafutdinov ended up in first place, but Austrians Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr took the gold for the overall rankings. Germany's Juliane Wurm and Stöhr finished second and third, with Russia's Rustam Gelmanov and Alexey Rubtsov taking silver and bronze for the men. American Alex Puccio finished in a tie for eighth, but placed third overall, becoming the first American to medal in the overall rankings in Boulder World Cup history. Click here for more details.
2011 Arco World Championships: Bouldering
Photos by Anna Piunova / arco2011.it - Austrian Anna Stöhr and Russian Dmitry Sharafutdinov grabbed the gold medals at the 2011 World Championships in Arco, Italy, in the bouldering competition. Sasha DiGiulian and Czech climber Adam Ondra placed second, followed by Germany's Juliane Wurm and Russia's Rustam Gelmanov in third. More than 130 men entered the competition, with almost 70 in the women's division. Read a more detailed report here.
Adventures NYC: EMS Pro Bouldering Comp in Central Park
Photos by Kate Lacey - More than 20,000 spectators gathered to watch Angie Payne and Vasya Vorotnikov take top honors at the Eastern Mountain Sports Pro Tour in Central Park, New York City, this past weekend. This was the second event of the 2011 UBC Pro tour—the third and final event will take place at the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in Salt Lake City in August.
Payne and Sasha DiGiulian (who placed second) flashed all three finals problems, but Payne's performance in semi-finals clinched her win. Lizzy Asher and Francesca Metcalf were third and fourth.
Ty Landman and Mike Feinberg placed second and third. See more info and full results here.
Las Vegas Limestone - Spring 2011
Photos by Andy Mann - Jonathan Siegrist: While many vacations to Las Vegas are characterized by wicked tales of debauchery that end with rehabilitating hangovers, an unwanted marriage, or bankruptcy, I envisioned something a little different for my season-long retreat to Sin City. I needed a things that my hometown of Boulder, Colorado, simply couldn't deliver in the winter months: reliable sunshine and some of the best modern sport climbing in the nation.
2011 Vail Bouldering World Cup
Photos by Ben Fullerton - For the fourth consecutive year, the Teva Mountain Games hosted an IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado. But for the first year, no American stood atop the podium. Austrians Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber won the gold medals, with Alex Puccio and France's Melissa Le Neve taking silver and bronze. Russia's Dmitry Sharafutdinov and German Jonas Baumann took second and third in the men's comp. Read the full write-up here.
The Magic of Kalymnos
Photos by Nikolaos Smalios / climbkalymnos.com- People always ask about my favorite Mediterranean island to visit for climbing, and I’ve given the same answer — Kalymnos, Greece — so many times that it’s become automatic. But when a place is so clearly climber Eden, what else is there to say? Kaly’s quiet, largely untouristed west coast, home to most of the climbing, has a small strip of villages sandwiched between calm green and cerulean waters and mythical limestone scarps with hundreds of jaw-dropper, rope-stretcher slab, wall, tufa, and crazy 3-D stalactite-cave climbs from 5.6 to 5.14+... Read the rest here.
Best of Burr 2010
Here, a selection of some of senior contributing photographer Andrew Burr's best photos published in Climbing in 2010. Areas include Indian Creek, Joshua Tree National Park, Mill Creek, Lover's Leap, Spain, and more. See more of Burr's work at andrewburr.com.
Dominion Riverrock 2011 Boulder Bash
The 2011 Dominion Riverrock Festival hosted the Blue Ridge Mountain Sports Boulder Bash bouldering competition, which featured top pro athletes ascending a 20-foot-high by 30-foot-deep bouldering cave made from metal, wood, and fiberglass with large, overhanging volumes. Despite inclement weather over the weekend, the event (which also boasted other extreme sports events and live music) drew almost 20,000 people. Sasha DiGiulian easily took the women's comp, flashing all four problems. Zach Lerner won the men's division. See full results here.
Best Gallery Shots - Fall/Winter 2011
We've selected some of the best photos published in Climbing's Galleries from the 2010/2011 fall and winter seasons. Photographers include Andrew Burr, Ryan Creary, Simon Carter, Garrett Grove, Alexandre Buisse, Pascal Tournaire, Ryan Wheater, Keith Ladzinski, and Dean Fleming. Pick up Climbing issues 290 (November), 291 (December/January), and 292 (February) to see full-sized versions of these stunning images from Utah, Hong Kong, Peru, France, and many more.
Ashima Shiraishi in Hueco Tanks, TX
Photos by Julien Jarry - During the second half of March, young guns Ashima Shiraishi and Zoe Stienberg went to work in Hueco Tanks, Texas to film a section of "Origins," a Big Up Productions video prepared for the 2011 Reel Rock Film Tour. The two followed their coach and friend Obe Carrion on the same trails and some of the same lines he was on 13 years ago documented in the movie "Free Hueco," also filmed by Big Up. We were fortunate enough to be guided by Jason Kehl and receive first-class treatment at the Hueco Rock Ranch.
SCS National Championships 2011
Photos by Caroline Treadway - USA Climbing's 2011 SCS Open National Championships transpired this past weekend, with Sasha DiGiulian and Magnus Midtbø taking top honors in lead and Dana Riddle and Alex Johnson (male) in speed. DiGiulian was followed by Paige Claassen and Dana Riddle, while Matty Hong and Carlo Traversi took second and third for the men. Read the full write-up here.
Bouldering in the Buttermilks, Happy Boulders
Photos by Trevor Pound - I have been blessed to have lived in the Sierra Nevada for six years. Between the classic granite you will find in Tahoe, the awesome pocketed tuff in Mammoth, and the beautiful, very large boulders in Bishop, you could climb something new every day for years. We went to Bishop for a little while and explored the Happys, the Sads, and the Buttermilks. I love the Sierras and can't wait to spend some more time exploring the landscapes and the hundreds of thousands of climbs just within a few hours of each other.
ABS 12 National Championships - February 2011
Photos by Caroline Treadway - ABS 12 National Championships took place Saturday night in Boulder, Colorado, in an empty warehouse—the first year that Nationals hasn't been held in a gym. Hundreds of spectators filled the floor, strobe lights flashed on the wall, and live commentary from Jason Danforth and guest speakers was streamed online for those who couldn't be there in person. Alex Puccio dominated the women's competition, flashing two of the three finals problems. The men's race was a closer one, but Canadian Sean McColl clinched his win with a flash of Men's 3. Read more details here.
History of American Sport Climbing
Photos by Andy Mann / Words by Jonathan Siegrist - Sport climbing in America has undergone a lifetime of changes during its almost 30 years of existence. What was once considered an ethically questionable practice has not only been widely accepted, but embraced by the climbing community. Sport climbing history is not only a fascinating story—it's unique in that its landmarks remain for our current-day experience. It's invaluable to understand the roots of sport climbing history in order to fully appreciate its modern form.
American Sport Climbing - A Photo Essay
Photos by Andy Mann / Words by Jonathan Siegrist - Sport climbing in America has undergone a lifetime of changes during its almost 30 years of existence. What was once considered an ethically questionable practice has not only been widely accepted, but embraced by the climbing community. Sport climbing history is not only a fascinating story—it's unique in that its landmarks remain for our current-day experience. Historical testpieces and groundbreaking routes are accessible to anyone and can be enjoyed by every following generation. Read more here.
Triple Crown Bouldering Series 2010 - Stone Fort
Photos by Kelly Bussell - On Saturday, December 4, Triple Crown competitors gathered under a cold and gloomy sky at Urban Rocks Climbing Gym in Chattanooga, Tennessee. With a chance of rain threatening to shut down the comp, uncertainty filled the air. Climbers were herded onto buses to make their way toward Montlake Golf Course, home of Stone Fort. Scrambling to gather their crashpads, they quickly descended onto the boulderfield, trying to stay ahead of the rain. Inevitably, a light drizzle enveloped the boulders, making the simplest of topouts somewhat dicey. However, the boulders buzzed with laughter and a positive vibe, while climbers made the best of a cold, damp day, filling up impressive scorecards. Southern climbers Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras won the comp and the overall Triple Crown title for 2010. See more results at triplecrownbouldering.org.
Bouldering in Columbia, California
Photos by Dean Fleming - After the unearthing of a massive gold deposit in the spring of 1850, the small town of Columbia, California, became one of the largest mining camps in The Mother Lode. Today, an enormous labyrinth of narrow limestone corridors and jumbled blocks sits exposed by Columbia’s extensive hydraulic gold-mining campaign. Although the boulders and cliff-bands are endowed with harrowing landings, mossy topouts, mountain lions and poison oak, this area’s unique features have attracted climbers for nearly 40 years. Columbia is relatively unknown to the American climbing community, yet a small group of local boulderers is continuing a long-standing tradition of highball bouldering and high adventure in Columbia’s overgrown passageways. See more about bouldering in Columbia in Mileage in Climbing No. 290.
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