Perhaps nowhere else on Earth can you find a crag so inextricably linked with world history. For example, a favorite climb, Goblin (5.10c), boasts a forearm-sized hole at mid-height. Here, as your arm reaches into the Bunker's cold bowels, you can't help but be reminded that during the Berlin air raids, as many as 18,000 civilians huddled inside with only one hour of oxygen if the power was cut. (The interior walls were painted with white phosphorus -- itself extremely toxic -- which glowed during power outages.) In the last few weeks of the war, as the Russians closed in, Berliners amassed in these bunkers for weeks on end. Thousands committed suicide. For more about the bunker: http://www.travelerphotography.com/essay/essay.htm