Englekirk Fires Two Valley V 5.13s in a Week
By Chris Van Leuven - “Boy, I almost just took a big whipper right there,” said a relieved Doug Englekirk after onsighting the final 5.12d pitch – an enormous, imposing roof — on Washington Column’s Quantum Mechanic (V 5.13a, 1000 feet). A few pitches later — including a fight through an absolutely heinous and unrated chimney — Englekirk was on the summit of the Column just as the sun set over the Valley, having freed two iconic Yosemite grade V 5.13 routes within a five–day period. Between October 16-21 Englekirk redpointed Leaning Tower’s Westie Face (V 5.13a/b AO, 9 pitches, 700 feet, ‘FFA’ Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles 2001) in fewer than five attempts spread over three months and Washington Column’s Quantum Mechanic (V 5.13a, 15 pitches, FA/FFA Rob “Platinum” Miller, Jay "Shaggy" Selvidge, 2002) on his second attempt. Doug’s send of the Westie Face likely stands in the top 10 free ascents of the route. As for Quantum, this is likely the third free ascent, after Yuji Huriyama’s impressive onsight in 2003.