March 2012 - 303
COVER: Ivo Ninov on Pacific Ocean Wall, El Capitan. Photo by Jimmy Chin. Craig's List: A bruising, humbling pilgrimage to the late Craig Luebben's favorite desert offwidths. Gunk Show: Eighteen months at New York's Shawangunks serves up a lifetime of brilliant 5.10 climbing. Your First Big Wall: One of the world's most experienced big-wall climbers reveals the top techniques and tools for first-time aid climbers and veterans alike.
February 2012 - 302
COVER: Thomasina Pidgeon on Cutting Edge (V4) at Squamish, BC. Photo by Rich Wheater / age fotostock. THE SANDSTONE ALPS: Utah's San Rafael Reef isn't for everyone. And that's exactly why some climbers love it. THE GOLDEN PITONS: Climbing's 10th annual survey of the year's most outrageous climbing achievements. CATSKILLS ICE: New York's Catskill Park is a little-known mecca for ice climbing, within a half day's drive of millions of people.
December/January 2012 - 301
COVER: Nope, it's not Aron Ralston. It's Pete Whittaker on Century Crack (5.14b) in Utah's Monument Basin. Photo by Alex Ekins. SURVIVORS: Climbing's history is packed with amazing survival stories. Here, 25 of the most inspiring. MORE THAN ABLE: After a near-fatal accident, Craig DeMartino didn't let amputation limit his life. Instead, life handed him more opportunities than ever. STAYING ALIVE: Veteran climbing rangers from Yosemite, Mt. Rainier, and Grand Teton national parks share their top tips.
November 2011 - 300
COVER: From left: George Lowe, Angie Payne, Tommy Caldwell, and Lynn Hill. Photo by Claudia Lopez. LEGACY: Four icons of climbing speak out on heroes, ethics, the Olympic Games, and the future of the sport. PRO-SPECTIVE: If you could only do one climb before you died, what would it be? GEAR HALL OF FAME: The editors pick their favorite, time-tested ice tools, pro, clothing, and more. WHERE IT ALL BEGAN: Six great crags that changed American climbing forever.
October 2011 - 299
COVER: Ari Menitov stylin' on California's Tehipite Dome. Photo by Andrew Burr. NORTHERN EXPOSURE: Fall in New England isn’t just for leaf peepers. Check out
these eye-popping images of locals’ favorite 5.10s. REVELATIONS: After four years of effort, a first ascent in the Alaska Range
brings a mixed bag of emotions. HIGH AND WILD: Free climbing on the Sierra’s biggest,
baddest backcountry dome. CLIMB SMARTER: 50 common mistakes that every climber
must avoid.
September 2011 - 298
COVER: James Pearson psychs up for the crux overhang on the Arch of Bashikele, Ennedi Desert, Chad. Photo by Jimmy Chin. Colorado Gold:The vast South Platte region is a granite paradise stacked with
domes, spires, and crags of all sizes.
By Jason Haas. City to Summit: Mountain climbing doesn’t have to mean an expedition. By Brendan Leonard. Sand Castles: Sketchy summits, blinding dust, triple-digit heat, and knifewielding
locals: Do you have what it takes to climb in Africa’s
Ennedi Desert?
By Mark Synnott
August 2011 - 297 - High Country Issue
COVER: Steve Elia climbing on the Aiguille du Moine, near Chamonix, France. PatitucciPhoto. Better than Lucky: At age 12, Colin Haley set a lifetime goal of climbing Cerro Torre, and at age 22, he accomplished that mission—with a first ascent. By Chris Weidner. Oasis: When summertime heat blasts the crowded Salt Lake metro area, climbers escape to Lone Peak Cirque for chill camping and pristine granite walls. By Andrew Burr. Kings of the Cascades: The Lower 48's greatest glaciated peaks offer lifetimes of mountaineering challenges. Here, five classic volcano routes, from beginner to expert. By John Connor.
June/July 2011 - 296 - Photo Annual
COVER: Sonya Remington on JR Token (5.10), Trout Creek, Oregon. Photo by Ben Herndon. 5.9: The Crossroads: This grade once represented the hardest climbing imaginable. Now, it's simply some of the best. By Jim Thornburg. First Come, First Served: You never know exactly what you'll find when you start up a new route. And that's exactly the appeal. By Andrew Burr. Bloopers: Ten professional climbing photographers describe what happens when the shoot hits the fan. By James Q Martin.
May 2011 - 295
COVER: Ueli Steck races toward the summit of the Eiger in Switzerland. Photo by Robert Bosch. DEEP WISDOM: When Tennessee climbers found a new crag, developed it in secret, and then saw it shut down, it was the same old story in the South. But this time, the ending was different. THE LOVE LETTER: Overworked and borderline depressed, a climber and his favorite partner—his wife—plot a dream trip to the High Sierra. RAPID TRANSIT: From the Alps to the Himalaya, Swiss climber Ueli Steck is the fastest man in the mountains. He trains harder than most Olympians, and here he reveals his motivations and methods.
2011 Gear Guide - April - 294
2011 GEAR GUIDE: Editors' Choice Awards: After months of testing, we reveal our picks for the nine most innovate and exciting new products of the year. Haul Bag: More great gear, from sleeping bags to burritos, wind shells to tents, watches to first aid kits. Walk Off: Survive this! What do to if you drop or lose the gear in this guide. Beginner's Corner: How to buy your first belay device, harness, helmet, rope, and climbing shoes.
March 2011 - 293
COVER: Kurt Astner on Phoenix (5.13a), Yosemite National Park, possibly the world's first 5.13. LAKE EFFECT: Timid topropers and the boldest leaders thrive side by side at Devil's Lake, the Midwest's most storied climbing area. FAITH: Spain is all about sport climbing on sunny limestone, right? Welcome to Pedriza, Spain's mecca for granite friction slabs. THE HOT LIST: Climbing's inaugural guide to the best new routes and crags of the year.
February 2011 - 292
COVER: Chris Sharma on La Perla (5.14a), bolted and climbed in the spring of 2009 at Margalef, Spain. HALF LIFE: Chris Sharma is turning 30 in April. In our in-depth interview, Chris explains why he's so happy to settle down at last—and how that will help him climb harder than ever. THE WANKER 101: You can climb V1 and V0. But can you climb it all day? GOLDEN PITON AWARDS: Celebrating this year's hottest sport, alpine, ice, bouldering, and endurance achievements.
December 2010 - 291
COVER: Adrien Erlandson shakes out on Thin Chance, Hyalite Canyon, Montana. SOFT KOR: Not all Layton Kor's masterpieces were desperate frightfests. DIAMONDS IN THE DUST: A spur-of-the-moment trip to Oman reveals great climbing and a fascinating, friendly culture. BAJA UNREQUITED: It was such a brilliant plan: unclimbed cliffs approached by inflatable kayak. What could go wrong?
November 2010 - 290
COVER: Climbers on Chopicalqui in Peru's Cordillera Blanca; Photo by Alexandre Buisse; ANGELS OF MONT BLANC: The elite alpinists, medics, and pilots of Chamonix's PGHM... By Neil Brodie; WING AND A PRAYER: Was Maurice Wilson crazy or ahead of his time...? By Martin Gutmann; TROUBLE WITH ME: A brash, late-night vow leads to an all-out effort at Gogarth... By Nick Bullock
October 2010 - 289
COVER: Kevin Jorgeson on the 5.13b ninth pitch of the uncompleted Dawn Wall free climb. Photo by Corey Rich; STONEY POINT: The beauty of these tattooed L.A. boulders may only be in the minds of the beholders... By Cole Gibson; THE PROJECT: Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson are beginning year four of their attempt to free-climb El Cap... By Dougald MacDonald; THE COLOSSUS: After 20 years of climbing desert towers, what could possibly offer a new challenge? By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
September 2010 - 288
COVER: Chris Sierzant Rambo-styles it on Merman (V6) at Hippie Hole, Little River Canyon, Tennessee. Photo by Tomas Donoso; DEEP SOUTH WATER SCRAMBLING: It's hot in Chattanoogabefore you do something you'll regret, head for the river; WIND, SAND, AND SCARS: Follow an old mining road to a Utah river, launch your canoe, and drift into a world of desert towers; HOLLYWOOD HIDEOUT: Malibu Creek State Park hides some of SoCal's sweetest pocket pulling.
August 2010 - 287 - High Country Issue
COVER: Majka Burhardt on the Mountaineers Route (5.9), Elephant's Perch, Sawtooth Mountains, Idaho. Photo by James Q Martin; SKYLADDERS: Far above timberline, these are the proudest rock climbs in North America; UNDER ANGEL WINGS: California's High Sierra is littered with pristine boulders, some located so far out in the backcountry that no one would ever hike in the pads needed to climb them; THE ONE THING: What one thing most helped you improve? SAWTOOTH DAYDREAM: Join the author in his quest to fulfill a fantasy as two strong teams of women tick the burly classics of the Elephant's Perch in Idaho.
June 2010 - 286 - Photo Annual
COVER: Joey Kinder on the midway crux on a project in the Hurricave, Utah. Photo by Keith Ladzinski; NGA XUONG SONG - Deep water soloing in Vietnam's Ha Long Bay; TAULITTUQ - An Arctic Odyssey; BLACK CANYON OUTTAKES - Tales from Colorado's uniquely scary big walls
May 2010 - 285 - 40th Anniversary Edition
40 YEARS OF AMERICAN ROCK - A look back (with a few twists) at four decades of ascents, clmbers, and ideas; HEIDI ALMIGHTY - She's taking on a new challenge: funding the education of young women in central Asia; BUOUX - Come see this world-class crag for yourself...
2010 Gear Guide - 284
Beta from three equipment-punishing pros - INES PAPERT, ROB PIZEM, MATT WILDER; Gear Categories - Belay Devices, Boots, Carabiners, Crashpads, Harnesses, Headlamps, Helmets, Ice Gear, Protection, Rock Shoes, Ropes, Basecamp; Perspective - Gary Neptune: climber; amateur historian, collector, business owner, world traveler; Boulder, Colorado
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