Climbing
Current Issue
245 - January 2005

Cover
Tommy Caldwell on the Changing Corners pitch (5.14a) on the Nose.
Photo by Corey Rich

Rolling Thunder
Ice climbing in Canada’s heartland
On the north shore of Lake Superior, above the mill towns and moose and muskellunge, lies an ice-climbing paradise, a secret that no one is trying to keep.
By David Benton Photos by Mike Landkroon

Silo High
Farming ice on Iowa’s granaries
What do you do when the ice is forming, your picks are sharp, and you’re stranded in the land of cornfields and pig farms? Welcome to Cedar Falls, Iowa, and the Red Bull Silo Summit Ice Climbing Competition.
By Craig Luebben

Escalar Bom
Sport climbing at Brazil’s hottest crags
Stringy bikinis, fresh tropical juices, surf, sun, and perfect stone. What could be better than a day of clipping “P’s” in a tropical rainforest as miniature monkeys raid your lunch?
By Scott Milton Photos by Sandra Studer

Gallery
Face it, it’s winter — time for ice, snow, suffering ... and crisp rock conditions in the pale sun.

12 Editorial
A thing about partners.

18 Letters
The Trotsky axe case, stoves on planes, Spaceshot ain’t free, and more

22 Hot Flashes
Beth and Tommy send the Nose, Sharma finishes it off in Squamish, last great problem in the Cascades

32 Happenings
People of HERA, Climb Smart in Josh

36 Off the Wall
Seven-summiters hail Carstensz Pyramid’s reopening, Patagonia’s underwear initiative, rocker’s son climbs the Salathé

70 Tech Tips
Alpine: Building a light-and-fast hauling ratchet
Mixed: Find and test your mixed holds
Trad: Epic-free slab descents
Wall: Safe portaledge cooking

78 Equipment
Winter extravaganza — the hottest new gear for the cold months

96 Vantage Point
Death to the nouns! Long live the verbs! A veteran wordsmith deconstructs climbing’s grammar
By Kurt Harler


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