Cover
DJ Underground Chuck, somewhere in Colorado.
Photo by Keith Ladzinski
Crag X
Trad, sport, and bouldering, all safely tucked away somewhere in the desert Southwest. We’ll show you the goods... we just won’t divulge the location.
By Lisa Hathaway Photos by Andrew Burr
Hidden Giants
And all these years you thought Squamish was the bomb when it came to climbing in the western Canadian maritimes — think again. With walls up to 2700 feet, the Eldred Valley could prove to be the next great granite hotspot.
By Aaron Black
Golden Piton Awards
El Cap free routes, Hueco’s newest testpiece, Mr. 8a evolves into Mr. 9a, Indian Creek sickness, an unlikely solo, and one of mountaineering’s last great problems. Celebrate 2005’s best climbs, climbers, and humanitarians with Climbing Magazine’s fourth-annual achievement awards.
By Dougald MacDonald
Gallery
A few secrets, a few you might already know, and a couple new perspectives on the vertical world.
8 > Editorial
Crags may be secret, but climbers are loquacious
12 > Letters
Jack Osbourne-related poetry, 2005 Golden Piton awards
16 > Hot Flashes
Graham establishes his first 9a/9a+ (5.15a), Harry Berger climbs Alps trilogy, Lake Willoughby and Poke-O-Moonshine ice routes, and the world’s stoutest mixed climbs
26 > Off the Wall
Indian Creek land access, Yosemite lawsuit dismissed, Hueco Rock Ranch debacle, rescuing the Red’s new crags
34 > On the Radar
Secrets no more: Crags where climber’s lips got too loose
38 > Passages
Heinrich Harrer, Eigerwand’s first-ascentionist and author of Seven Years in Tibet
66 > Tech Tips
Trad: Rack conservation strategies
Sport: Better climbing through periodization training
Wall: Micro survival gear
72 > Equipment
New rock gear for ‘06
80 > Reviews
Elizabeth Hawley, The Mountaineering Handbook, and more
86 > Classifieds
94 > Vantage Point
The upside and darkside of authoring guidebooks
By Phillip Benningfield
98 > Off Route
Fishing meets big-wall climbing