Climbing
Current Issue
July 2008 - 267


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Cover: Beth Rodden battles the barndoor on her Meltdown (5.14), Yosemite National Park, California.
Photos: Corey Rich/Aurora Photos

FEATURES

GALLERY
Pawtuckaway granite — sweet boulders and bizzled trad — through the lens of New Hampshire homeboy Tim Kemple.

FANTASYLAND
Veteran alpinist and trash-talker Kelly Cordes confronts his biggest hurdle yet — the “hippies” of Patagonia — after a quick detour up Cerro Torre with Colin Haley.
By Kelly Cordes

THE ORIGINAL SPRAYLORD
How did Albert Smith, a pudgy Englishman with only Mont Blanc to his credit, launch the sport of mountaineering 130 years ago? By inventing spray, of course. . . .
By Martin Gutmann
Illustration by Leighan Falley
Sidebar by Luke Mehall

A GRAND IS NOT ENOUGH
Ten peaks, 12,000 feet of vertical gain, crumbly rock, and restless weather — welcome to the Tetons’ Grand Traverse (V 5.8), seen here from the perspectives of client and mountain guide.
By Jeff Burke, with Bill Liberatore
Photos by Dave Ryan

THE TINKERER
The greatest innovators are often the quiet ones — meet Doug Phillips, the Oregon boy and thin-crack-pro revolutionary who started Metolius Climbing a quarter-century ago.
By Matt Samet


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DEPARTMENTS

CONTRIBUTORS
Kelly Cordes, Leighan Falley, Martin Gutmann, Federica Valabrega

EDITORIAL
A note from Climbing’s Art Director, Andy Outis

LETTERS
BASECAMP
HOT FLASHES
OFF THE WALL
PLAYERS
JUST OUT
TEN THINGS
WHIPPED
SPORTING LIFE
SUSTAINED

CLASSIC CLIMBS
Mucho Pumpito (5.10b) — two pitches of overhanging Cuban bliss in the serene Viñales Valley

EQUIPMENT
The 2008 rock-shoe review: 23 models stone-tested

TECH TIP
Sport: click, clack, clip — three sporty clipping secrets of the de-gumbified former n00b

PERSPECTIVE
Riccardo Cassin: alpinist, author, blacksmith, veteran; Lecco, Italy


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