FEATURES

GALLERY
Ibex, Utah, might be the Middle of Nowhere, but that doesn’t mean it lacks for killer sport or world-class bouldering. Here, Tim Kemple gives an inside view of the Ibex high end.

FAITH-BASED INITIATIVE
Tune up your huevos and get ready for a second dose of Ibex. This time it’s trad-style, ground-up, using animal instinct to tame virgin stone at this remote West Desert treasure trove.
By Jeff Hollenbaugh
Photos by Kennan Harvey

HALF THE STORY
Adieu, Hueco. Sayonara, Bishop. The real bouldering explosion centers on a hillside in Turkey. And with tens of thousands of blocs yet to explore, everyone’s invited.
Story and Photos by Boone Speed

AMERICAN MEATBALLS
Two psyched yankees visit Bohuslän, Sweden, home to the world’s best trad cragging. The only problem? The grades are harsher than Ming the Merciless . . . especially on the offwidths.
By Mike Brumbaugh
Photos by Jonas Paulsson

ANOTHER ONE DRIVES THE BUS
Why Boulder, Colorado, climbers have been driving the big, yellow bus for more than a quarter century.
By Chris Weidner
Photos by Celin Serbo

DEPARTMENTS

CONTRIBUTORS
Ann Raber, Jeff Hollenbaugh, Boone Speed, and Kennan Harvey

EDITORIAL
Is climbing a “sport”?

LETTERS
BASECAMP
JUST OUT
HOT FLASHES
OFF THE WALL
PLAYERS
TEN THINGS
GET SCRAPPY
SPORTING LIFE
SUSTAINED

CLASSIC CLIMBS
Recom-Beast (III 5.9) — a beast from the East, with a distinctly trad New Hampshire flourish

TECH TIP
Sport: Gymkata for women — warding off roving predators at the training dojo. Plus, “Coug-Alert!” for guys. . . .

REVIEWS
A Perfecto way to deep-water solo, on DVD; Contact: essays on climbers’ connection to the environment; and Eric J. Hörst’s most comprehensive training manual to date

PERSPECTIVE
Boone Sheridan Speed: photographer, product designer, area developer, entrepreneur, smack talker; Portland, Oregon