May 2009 - 275

FEATURES

GALLERY
A Swiss col of summer dreams, footless 5.14- roof crack, elephant bouldering in Denmark, and Ten Sleep sweetness.

COCHISE WHISPERS
A domeland wilderness in the Arizona desert that was once a hideout for the Chiricahua Apache — it’s Cochise Stronghold, where the ghosts of history and tradmasters of present mingle on some damned fine Southwestern granite.
By Fitz Cahall
Photos by James Q Martin

CATAVINA OR BUST!
No, it’s not Rocklands, but the endless granite boulder fields of Catavina — Baja, Mexico — are still an explorer’s heaven.
Introduction and Photos by Andrew Burr
Journal Entries by Cody Roth and Abbey Smith

PHOBOPHOBIA
Fear is a universal part of climbing, but what’s driving the terror bus and how do you steer it where you need it to go? A journalist and a psychologist pull apart the monkey puzzle, with help from four top climbers.
By Kristin Bjornsen and Fred Bryant, PhD

TOWER TO THE PEOPLE
Twenty-odd traddy pitches, 6,000 feet of vertical bashing, seven miles of hiking, and 25 miles of driving: it’s the Tower Tour, a one-day, five-tower Moab link-up even a coupla’ working joes can pull off.
By Mike Brumbaugh
Photos by Andrew Burr

DEPARTMENTS

CONTRIBUTORS
Dan Brazil, Mike Brumbaugh, Fred Bryant, PhD, and Michelle Duregger

EDITORIAL
Don’t let your spring ticklist get in the way of your climbing.

LETTERS

JUST OUT
Gear-lover’s spring-bling fling — ka-ching, ka-ching!

HOT FLASHES
International free-wallstravaganza, from Patagonia, to Mexico, to
Norway; Hueco’s 2009 record-sending season; more. . . .

OFF THE WALL
Silo classics in downtown Oklahoma City; The Red Swing Project, giving new (playful) life to old static lines; Overheard (!)

PLAYERS
Jeff Noffsinger: the tireless trad-FA king of the Big South Fork

TEN THINGS . . .
Hueco Tanks

ROADKILL
A Minnesota climber’s single-minded, eight-year quest to climb
the Nose

OPEN BIVY
Join Conrad Anker, the “Youth,” and “Lavender” on a mellow trip up the monster El Niño (VI 5.13c A0), El Capitan.

SUSTAINED
Bolts + mixed-alpine climbs in Norway and Vermont = controversy

CLASSIC CLIMBS
Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle (III 5.7), Huntington Ravine,
Mount Washington, New Hampshire: storied ridge-running in
alpine New England

TECH TIPS
Bouldering: buff up your spotting with eight turbo tips from the master, Corey Dwan.
Training: unlock peak sending fitness with a heart-rate monitor.

MILEAGE
Our new destination department, this issue lining out three recession-proof spring mega-areas

ANCHORED
Meet Ted Lanzano, unflagging Anchor Replacement Initiative volunteer

PERSPECTIVE
Lieutenant Colonel Earl Clark: Tetons pioneer, 10th Mountain veteran, frequenter of singles’ cruises; Denver, Colorado