FEATURES

GALLERY
Timy Fairfield spelunks in the Famous Jemez; “ice men” for summer’s dog days; and a perfect Rio Grande splitter.

UTOPIAN VISTAS
Rich culture. Friendly locals. High-desert weather. And hundreds of sleeper classics on pristine basalt, conglomerate, and granite, with blocs a-go-go — what’s not to love about Taos, New Mexico?
By Matt Samet
Photos by Andrew Burr

THE HOARY-HEADED FATHERS
So much history and so many classic alpine moderates, it’s hard to know where to start: welcome to the Tetons, revealed in words and photos by two locals who know the Wyoming range inside-out.
By Molly Loomis
Photos by Gabe Rogel

JOHNNY ROCK: THE LIFE AND CLIMBS OF JOHN BACHAR
John Bachar was an icon, a free-climbing and solo pioneer who steered our sport from the 1970s onward. When Bachar fell from the Dike Wall on July 5, later losing his life, our world came to a halt. Here, Climbing remembers this remarkable man.
By Kristin Bjornsen
Tribute by Rick Accomazzo

BORDER COUNTRY
This May, two of America’s best alpinists — Jonny Copp and Micah Dash — and the rising filmmaker Wade Johnson perished in an avalanche in China. Here, friends take you inside the lives, climbs, and final expedition of this beloved trio.
By Abbey Smith
Tributes by Pete Takeda, Cedar Wright, and Sender Films

THE GNAR
How to live happily ever after in The Gnar — or a climber and his daughter’s quest for meaning in the vertical universe.
By Peter Brown Hoffmeister
llustration by Mike Tea

DEPARTMENTS

CONTRIBUTORS
Peter Brown Hoffmeister, Tucker Tyler, Audra Ord, and Dan Lubbers

EDITORIAL
John Bachar: a life without compromise

LETTERS

JUST OUT
Six bizzlin’ accessories for impending autumn

HOT FLASHES
Valle de Paloma: the sweet new (everyman’s) stash in Cochamó, Chile; and Nalle Hukkataival’s epic sendfest

OFF THE WALL
Abe Ferraro, climbing sculptor and vertical visionary; the mad game of crate stacking; Overheard (funny!)

PLAYERS
Vic Zeilman: Joshua Tree’s social-trail savior

TEN THINGS . . .
Southern Illinois

ROADKILL
How Sonnie Trotter tried to beat Chris Sharma at his own game . . . and lost

OPEN BIVY
Conrad Anker paints the dark side of gravity

SUSTAINED
Access Fund’s promising new crag-purchase initiative

CLASSIC CLIMBS
Sea Gypsy (II 5.9+ R), Acadia National Park, Maine: two pitches of diamond granite with a sublime ocean vista

TECH TIPS
Trad: seven smart ways to speed switchovers at multipitch belays
Training: tips and tricks for building bombproof ACLs

MILEAGE
Israel: an eye-opening limestone tour of the Holy Land

REVIEWS
David Roberts’ new biography of Bradford Washburn; 19 climbers, six countries, no ropes — Chuck Fryberger’s new DVD Pure; and a fascinating DVD look at Jim Bridwell, the Yosemite Living Legend

ANCHORED
Bob Gaines, J-Tree lifer and tireless first ascentionist

PERSPECTIVE
Timy Fairfield: World Cup winner, professional climber, route-setter, cat walker, coach; Albuquerque, New Mexico