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![]() COVER: Sonnie Trotter locks horns with a major runout to make the first no-bolts ascent of Prosthetics (5.13d), Mill Creek Canyon, Utah. PHOTO: Andrew Burr / AndrewBurr.com
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FEATURES
GALLERY
Visions from Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk’s near-ascent of Meru Central’s Shark’s Fin; Hueco refl ections; and a Flatirons testpiece for the ages.
GRAVITY LESSONS
Four of our sport’s top practitioners take an unfl inching
look at our collective impact on the vertical spaces and
what we need to do now to protect the temple.
By Conrad Anker, Sonnie Trotter, John Sherman,
and Steve House • Illustration by Sean McCabe
THE OTHER THAILAND
We all know Tonsai, Thailand’s killer but crowded beachside
cragging. But move 450 miles north to Crazy Horse Buttress,
outside Chiang Mai, and you’ll fi nd a quiet, singular crag that’s
redefi ning the eco-tourism model.
By Marisa Aragón Ware
Photos by Josh and Dan Morris
THUNDERSTRUCK
Thunder Bay, Ontario, is a land of still lakes, endless forests,
and bullet volcanic crags, with hundreds of slammer cracks
and cutting-edge FFAs awaiting those intrepid enough to
explore its sylvan hills.
By Brandon Pullan
Photos by Mike Landkroon
DEPARTMENTS
CONTRIBUTORS
Brandon Pullan, Mike Landkroon, John Sherman, and Marisa Aragón Ware
EDITORIAL
Guest Editor Conrad Anker reveals why it’s not easy being green.
LETTERS
JUST OUT
Five smokin’-hot new gear offerings for 2010
HOT FLASHES Green 5.14: the new (meets old) frontier in elite climbing?
THE HAULBAG
Dreaded forest creature The Mossman attacks Red River Gorge;
unreal Kalymnos sketch-belay; and Will Gadd climbs 25,414 feet
of WI4 at the Ouray Ice Festival
OFF THE WALL
Spire bagging on the Navajo Reservation the real lowdown
PLAYERS
The director Chris Malloy, uniting surfing and climbing in his fi lm
180° South
TEN THINGS . . .
Mont Blanc
WHIPPED
Majka Burhardt takes a hard look at the vagabond lifestyle and its
global consequences
SPORTING LIFE
Why putting up chossy sport routes is climbing’s biggest grey area
SUSTAINED
How climate change is destabilizing the alpine environment
CLASSIC CLIMBS
Coyote Tower (5.10c), Sedona, Arizona: a sublime (and sane)
Sedona sandstone spire, with 600 feet of raw adventure
TECH TIPS
Technique: how to safeguard our precious desert areas
Travel: Emily Harrington’s secrets to jet-setting success
MILEAGE
Three “lovely” Valentine’s Day road-trip destinations to get your
rock and romance on
REVIEWS
180° South, the DVD and coffee-table book; and the Africandome- hunting DVD Waypoint Namibia
ANCHORED
Kevin Daniels, Mr. Fixe USA and bolt and anchor supplier for the
Anchor Replacement Initiative
PERSPECTIVE
Bernd Arnold: teacher, father, Elbsandstein master; Hohnstein, Germany