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PMI Elite Rope Review
Weighing in at a scant 57 grams per meter, the PMI Elite was one of the lightest ropes in the test. It also provided the cushiest catch due to its 35-percent dynamic elongation. The Maxim Whippet handled like a charm and absorbed plenty of route-working punishment. The cord’s smooth sheath and moderately stiff core made clipping and belaying a breeze. Mammut’s Infinity strikes a balance between light weight, durability, and handling. Virtually kink-free right out of the factory coil, this cord clipped well, held up to extended working sessions, and fed smoothly through all belay devices. While many testers considered the Edelweiss Laser to be too stiff, one individual took advantage of that stiffness for rodeo-clipping (swinging a loop of rope to clip into a sport route’s first draw), describing the action as “full-on gaucho. For those looking to make their first sub-10mm rope purchase, the Edelrid Livewire fits the bill well, without that bill being too high. Currently the world’s lightest and skinniest single rope, the BlueWater Dominator weighs two grams less per meter than its closest competition. The Beal Stinger, imported by Black Diamond, had just the right amount of stiffness for swift clipping — pull up a bight and slap it in. The Reverso ($21, 2.9 ounces) plays the dual roles of a belay/rappel plate and an auto-locking device. In lead/rappel mode it feeds both single and double ropes just like a tube device. The Wild Country Variable Controller indeed lives up to its name, offering great friction control while lowering and rappelling. The Trango Pyramid is a time honored design and for good reason — its versatile and effective design still ranks at the top of the pack. Unlike the keeper loops that all the other devices in our test utilize, the SBG II features a solid-metal stem, which renders the durability issue moot. The Metolius BRD shines on rappels and lowering, where its “horn,” which extends off the side of the tube, came in very handy for varying friction. The Hugh Banner provides solid, workable performance in all categories. The thick walls of the tube are very durable and rope friendly. The DMM Bug is a thick-walled, durable unit that excels when you’re belaying with skinny ropes, either single or double. While the Cassin GTC sits at the upper end of the belay-device price spectrum, it is a complete package, delivering solid performance in all categories. Looking for a cush ride and a smooth catch? The ATC XP is our device of choice — its deep, curved jaws caught falls with aplomb and provided excellent variable friction for free-hanging rappels. he Arc/Shell (identical models available from different sources) delivers reasonable fall catching. The Arc/Shell (identical models available from different sources) delivers reasonable fall catching. The Orca is a well-constructed, comfortable, intermediate face/sport shoe. The heel pocket, which some might find too high, sucks you in for a form-fitting yet cushy fit. The Marathon almost caused a few same-size-foot folks in the office to come to blows over who would use these comfortable, all-around high-performance beauties. The Guru is a well-built, high-performing yet comfortable shoe, well suited to intermediate sport climbing. The Wall is an all-around, canvas-lined entry-level shoe with an edging bent. The Troodon sports a solid edging platform and high rubber rands, making it a decent performer on face routes. However, the unlined Troodon falls short on fit, mainly due to its ineffective single Velcro strap and chunky elastic tongue. Of all the shoes this year with a cupped sole, the unlined Phantom exploits this feature to the utmost, offering a firm yet sensitive edging platform that also smears well. The Grappler is another of the myriad shoes sporting a cupped sole this year and, as with like models, provides a solid edging platform, though at the expense of smearability. |
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