Climbing
Equipment
2008 Rock-Shoe Review

ÇaVa T-Rex Velcro

$109.95, libertymountainclimbing.com

The T-Rex Velcro has a flat, asymmetrical last and uses 4.2mm Stealth Black Magic rubber. The crisscross Velcro closure tightens around the mid-foot and locks down the notched heel. The lined synthetic upper means it’s best to get a comfortable fit out of the box. The Velcro was stiff enough to excel at edging but felt a bit softer than the lace-up (the midsole here is Extreme Board 30, versus the T-Rex lace-up’s 45) — hence more confident on severe overhangs.

Ideal Uses: Moderate-to-hard sport and bouldering

Bottom Line: Comfortable all-arounder; strong on edges, from slabs to overhanging terrain 

ÇaVa T-Rex

$109.95, libertymountainclimbing.com

The T-Rex lace-up is ÇaVa’s flagship boot. The laces are (mostly) covered by synthetic material (protecting them while jamming or toe hooking), and you get a flat, asymmetrical last, with a chiseled toe. The stiff Extreme Board 45 midsole and 4.2mm Stealth Black Magic rubber make it an edging machine. The cotton-lined, non-stretchy synthetic upper kept the T-Rex comfortable but prevented stretching. Testers found the T-Rex heel hooked well on steep stuff, but the stiff, flat toe wasn’t quite dexterous enough for easy grabbing on overhangs.

Ideal Uses: Slabby-to-slightly-overhanging sport and trad routes

Bottom Line: Comfortable; great edging shoe 

Evolv Pontas Lace-Up

$125, evolvesports.com

The Pontas Lace-Up stood out for its blend of performance and comfort. Built on a flat, asymmetrical last, the chiseled toe and firm midsole made for precise, powerful edging, without sacrificing comfort; testers also noted the smooth lace action. The Pontas are cotton lined and have a squishy synthetic upper that resists stretching, so make sure they’re comfortable brand new. The flat last and moderately stiff feel meant the Pontas Lace wasn’t quite the ultimate steep-climbing shoe, but the toe box had plenty of hooking rubber, and the heel stayed put, too. The 4.2mm TRAX XT-5 rubber was exceptionally confident on edges and rugosities.

Ideal Uses: Technical face climbing; high-end all-around use

Bottom Line: Comfortable given its high level of performance; great for all but the steepest rock or all-day trad 

Click here to buy now from MountainGear.com


Evolv Quest-AF

$95, evolvesports.com

The Quest-AF is a solid all-around rock shoe. Built with a super-stiff midsole and flat, asymmetrical last, the Quest-AF offered confident edging in comfort. However, the 5mm TRAX XT-5 sole is slightly thicker (and thereby less sensitive) than what’s on the Pontas Lace-Up. All testers agreed that the lined, synthetic upper was comfortable enough for all-day use — it won’t stretch much, so size accordingly. The Quest-AF’s generous rand rubber allowed for confident crack climbing, too.

Ideal Uses: Edgy face climbs; all-day use

Bottom Line: Reasonably priced and comfortable all-arounder 

Click here to buy now from MountainGear.com



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