La Sportiva Miura VS $150, sportiva.com The streamlined Miura VS offers true high-end performance on a wide variety of terrain. The Velcro version shares the same asymmetrical, downturned last and pointed toe as the classic Miura, creating a shoe equally fluent on thin faces and wicked overhangs. The three Velcro closures were almost as effective at fine-tuning fit as laces, though one tester with wide feet commented that the middle strap wasn’t long enough for his liking. The Miura VS has a lined upper but no lining underfoot, which allowed for a sensitive feel with only moderate stretch (about a half-size). Testers commented on the stickiness of the Vibram XS Grip rubber. Ideal Uses: Moderate-to-hard face climbing; edging Bottom Line: Extremely high-performing and all-around shoe Click here to buy now from MountainGear.com
La Sportiva Mythos $130, sportiva.com With the Mythos, La Sportiva takes the saying “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” to heart they introduced the Mythos in 1992, and today it’s their all-time bestseller. Built on a straight, flat last, the Mythos has a toes-flat fit. The unlined leather uppers are meant to stretch to fit, and the laces extend all the way to the rounded toe and around the ankle, which allowed a marked range of adjustability. Our testers liked the Mythos’ all-day comfort; generous toe and rand rubber (Vibram XS Grip), for jamming; flexibility, for smearing; and moderate edging power. Ideal Uses: Trad climbing; cracks; all-day comfort Bottom Line: Time-tested all-arounder; great for all but the steepest rock climbs Click here to buy now from MountainGear.com
Mad Rock New Mugen $79.95, madrockclimbing.com The New Mugen is designed with a subtly asymmetrical, flat last. Two Velcro straps secure the narrow fit, while the lined, synthetic upper kept the boot from stretching more than a half-size. Generous toe rubber, a pointed, precise toe, and the trademark Mad Rock “Hooker” heel made the New Mugen stand out on steep climbs. The dual-density sole places full-thickness Mad Rubber only at the toe and edges of the shoe, reducing bulk and stiffness by using a thinner rubber everywhere else. Fit is on the narrow side. Ideal Uses: Steep bouldering, sport, and gym climbing Bottom Line: A reasonably priced, narrow-fitting, high-performance shoe
Mad Rock Onsight $69.95, madrockclimbing.com Mad Rock’s women’s-specific shoe is built on a straight last and is unlined for a highly malleable fit. This soft shoe lends itself to high sensitivity, for bouldering and Ideal Uses: Vertical-to-overhanging bouldering, sport, and gym climbing Bottom Line: Comfortable, soft, and sensitive women’s-specific shoe; slightly wider fit; excellent value
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