2008 Rock-Shoe Review

La Sportiva Miura VS

$150, sportiva.com

The streamlined Miura VS offers true high-end performance on a wide variety of terrain. The Velcro version shares the same asymmetrical, downturned last and pointed toe as the classic Miura, creating a shoe equally fluent on thin faces and wicked overhangs. The three Velcro closures were almost as effective at fine-tuning fit as laces, though one tester with wide feet commented that the middle strap wasn’t long enough for his liking. The Miura VS has a lined upper but no lining underfoot, which allowed for a sensitive feel with only moderate stretch (about a half-size). Testers commented on the stickiness of the Vibram XS Grip rubber.

Ideal Uses: Moderate-to-hard face climbing; edging

Bottom Line: Extremely high-performing and all-around shoe 

La Sportiva Mythos

$130, sportiva.com

With the Mythos, La Sportiva takes the saying “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” to heart — they introduced the Mythos in 1992, and today it’s their all-time bestseller. Built on a straight, flat last, the Mythos has a toes-flat fit. The unlined leather uppers are meant to stretch to fit, and the laces extend all the way to the rounded toe and around the ankle, which allowed a marked range of adjustability. Our testers liked the Mythos’ all-day comfort; generous toe and rand rubber (Vibram XS Grip), for jamming; flexibility, for smearing; and moderate edging power.

Ideal Uses: Trad climbing; cracks; all-day comfort

Bottom Line: Time-tested all-arounder; great for all but the steepest rock climbs 

Mad Rock New Mugen

$79.95, madrockclimbing.com

The New Mugen is designed with a subtly asymmetrical, flat last. Two Velcro straps secure the narrow fit, while the lined, synthetic upper kept the boot from stretching more than a half-size. Generous toe rubber, a pointed, precise toe, and the trademark Mad Rock “Hooker” heel made the New Mugen stand out on steep climbs. The dual-density sole places full-thickness Mad Rubber only at the toe and edges of the shoe, reducing bulk and stiffness by using a thinner rubber everywhere else. Fit is on the narrow side.

Ideal Uses: Steep bouldering, sport, and gym climbing

Bottom Line: A reasonably priced, narrow-fitting, high-performance shoe 

Mad Rock Onsight

$69.95, madrockclimbing.com

Mad Rock’s women’s-specific shoe is built on a straight last and is unlined for a highly malleable fit. This soft shoe lends itself to high sensitivity, for bouldering and
sport climbing. Testers found the Onsight’s fit to be wider in both the heel and toe than most (typically narrower) women’s shoes. The Onsight handled smearing, steep rock, and plastic very well, due to its Fx-5 rubber and soft, flexible feel. Size snugly.

Ideal Uses: Vertical-to-overhanging bouldering, sport, and gym climbing

Bottom Line: Comfortable, soft, and sensitive women’s-specific shoe; slightly wider fit; excellent value