2009 Shoe Review - August 2009

Boreal Blade

$139, e-boreal.com
Boreal’s new flagship Velcro is a master at edges and pockets. It has an asymmetric, slightly downturned last, FS QUATTRO rubber, and leather upper with padded mesh tongue and canvas lining. Testers noticed the sole (ostensibly 4 to 4.6mm, though I measured it at 6mm-plus) was initially a tad clunky. But after break-in, the Blade, slip lasted with a stiff midsole, danced on tiny edges (e.g., granite credit cards). Also, the vacuum-tight heel cup is one of the review’s best. Don’t fit too snugly —the Blades don’t stretch much, and smearing will suffer. Also, the two Velcro straps, high on the shoe, allow minimal toe-box adjustment.
Ideal Uses: Vertical faces to super steeps.
Bottom Line: Excellent edging/tech-face shoe, especially once broken in.

Boreal Sol

$99, e-boreal.com
The Sol is designed as a comfortable women’s (narrow, lowvolume) shoe. It sports a flat, asymmetric last, leather upper, 4 to 4.6mm FS QUATTRO, and stiff midsole. The upper’s PU Air Net lining ventilates ably, and the padded heel is the final brushstroke of comfort. Testers found the Sol best at edging, cracks, and multi-pitch, but one made it her primary bouldering shoe, citing the cushioned heel and easy Velcro (two straps) entry. Rather than super- high performance, you can expect the Sol to do any job well. Ideal for narrow, low-volume feet.
Ideal Uses: Multi-pitch, all-day comfort. Cracks, edging.
Bottom Line: Above average on slabby to slightly overhanging rock. Comfortable.

Edelrid Raven

$130, edelridna.com
The Germans have bulging, pocketed rock (think, the Frankenjura), so it’s no surprise that Edelrid, hitting the shoe market for the first time this September, has designed a performance Velcro, the Raven, that excels on steeps. Using an asymmetrical, highly downturned slip last, these unlined shoes went on with what one tester described as an auspicious “suction-cup tightness.” Also notable is Edelrid’s new Slide-Rail Velcro fastening system, which lets you tweak fit on the Raven by sliding (or even removing) the front-to-back strap over the midfoot. Testers noted a bomber heel, highly precise toebox, and the 4mm Vibram XS Grip sole, saying the “domineering” downturn equaled major power/grab on overhangs. The only drawback noted was possible cramping on vertical terrain.
Ideal Uses: Hard redpoints, super steeps.
Bottom Line: Subtle performer with an adjustable, new-school closure.