2009 Shoe Review - August 2009

Edelrid Tornado

$110, edelridna.com
The Tornado spins onto the market this autumn with an iteration of the Slide-Rail system (in this case, the straps hook anywhere along the large Velcro patch across the tongue) that testers appreciated for its control. For an only slightly down-cambered but asymmetrical shoe, the unlined, slip-lasted Tornado performed ably on steeps, with Vibram XS Grip (4mm) one tester labelled “extremely sticky.” But the Tornado shined most on edging, where it was notably solid and sensitive. Another plus was the snug heelcup, part of the “high-tension” heel created by the green heel strap wrapping the back of the boot. The shoes had a comfortable fit for mid-sized feet, with little stretch noted.
Ideal Uses: Faces and edging, from slab to just past vertical.
Bottom Line: Performance all-arounder with a Euro flair.

Evolv Optimus Prime

$125, evolvsports.com
The Optimus Prime* comes with a deep, stiff heel cup about which testers resoundingly raved. With its asymmetric, heavily downturned last, the Optimus Prime is perfect for steeps. The synthetic upper — combined with a cotton-fiber lining in the heel cup and toe box, plus, generous top rubber — minimized stretch. Size them snugly, because the two Velcro closures don’t allow for precision forefoot tightening. Unlike most aggressive shoes, the Optimus Prime has a full-length midsole — good for edging — with a 4.2mm TRAX XT-5 rubber sole. Our testers’ only lament was the rounded toe box, not entirely fluent in small pockets. (*This is one of Evolv’s XY customizable shoes.)
Ideal Uses: Every angle from vertical to horizontal, on rock and plastic.
Bottom Line: Excellent heel and toe hooking. Vacuum fit for wide, high-volume feet.

Evolv Royale

$79, evolvsports.com
We give the Royale a thumbs-up as the review’s most affordable shoe. It’s a sturdy, well-built novice boot, designed with a hefty 5mm TRAX XT-5 sole and double toe rand. For toe-dragging beginners, these features will translate to durability, though more advanced climbers might find the fit a tad clunky. That said, the Royale is very comfortable: it has a leather upper (lined in front, not in back), a 2mm, stiff, full-length midsole, and a flat, symmetric last.
Ideal Uses: Beginners, all-day comfort, moderate multi-pitch.
Bottom Line: Great price for a starter shoe. Not performance oriented.