2009 Shoe Review - August 2009

Mammut Goblin

$129.95, mammut.ch
Mammut’s high-performance Velcro shoe has an asymmetric, downturned last for steep bouldering and sport. The toe has the review’s sharpest point, making it an expert on pockets and miniscule footholds, while the cotton-lined synthetic upper stretched less than a half-size, offering an enduring fit. The sole is made of notably sticky 4mm Vibram XSV, and the heel is slightly ribbed for secure hooking. Like most Velcros, the two straps didn’t dial toe fit perfectly, so size tightly (testers noticed comfort even when skin-tight).
Ideal Uses: Steep bouldering, sport, gym.
Bottom Line: High-performing Velcro for steep, hard climbing.

Mammut Samurai

$139.95, mammut.ch
Mammut’s high-end lace-up has a radically asymmetric, downturned last for grabbing. Testers found the Samurai durable and comfortable once broken in, and one of this review’s most sensitive lace-ups (4mm Vibram XSV sole). The upper blends unlined leather and synthetic material; expect the shoe to stretch a half-size. Because of its shape and vacuum fit, the Samurai excels at heel and toe hooking, while offering a moderately stiff edge and pointy toe for edging and pockets. Our testers’ only grumble was the shortness of the laces, though it’s easy to swap in longer ones.
Ideal Uses: Technical face to severe overhangs, bouldering, and sport.
Bottom Line: Excellent performance shoe for the vertical and beyond.

Millet D. Dulac Pro Model

$119.90, milletusa.com
Millet’s new high-end shoe excels at everything vertical and steeper. Its stiff forefoot and 4.5mm 4PointGrip rubber stick to dimes, while its asymmetric, slightly downturned last grips the steeps. The molded heel cup is ribbed for precise, super-secure hooking, with support via a thick rubber rand that locks over your Achilles tendon. Although the synthetic upper and lining minimized stretch, size these snugly for precision steering. Three thin Velcro straps make them almost as adjustable as a lace-up.
Ideal Uses: Precision footwork on vertical to very steep rock/gym terrain.
Bottom Line: High-performance Velcro for extreme climbing.