2009 Shoe Review - August 2009

Millet Boa 1st

$104.90, milletusa.com
Millet’s Boa 1st has a slightly asymmetric, downturned last, giving a performance feel without sacrificing comfort. Meanwhile, the suede-leather upper offers a generously padded tongue and a roomy fit, and the shoe has a soft, antibacterial linen lining. The sole has the same 4mm 4PointGrip rubber as Millet’s high-performance shoes. The Boa 1st’s most notable aspect is the fragile-looking (but durable) BOA system — an innovative dial you turn to tighten and pop up to loosen. This made it easy to adjust mid-route, and points to a new potential trend.
Ideal Uses: Comfort and all-around use.
Bottom Line: Solid midlevel all-arounder, comfortable.

Red Chili Matador

$125, redchili.de
The Matador is Red Chili’s top-end shoe for bouldering and sport. The low-stretch synthetic upper keeps its shape, while the three Velcro closures allow you to fine-tune fit nicely. Our testers loved the asymmetric, downturned last and pointy toe profile — it fit into small pockets and edged with equal aplomb. The Matador, equipped with 4.2mm RX1 rubber, offers a rare blend of high-performance versatility and relative comfort in a shoe adept at everything from thin faces, to roofs.
Ideal Uses: Face climbing, bouldering, gym climbing, steeps.
Bottom Line: All-around high performance with a knack for steep stuff.

Red Chili Spirit IZ VCR

$109, redchili.de
Red Chili’s Spirit IZ VCR has a flat, slightly asymmetric last for comfort and all-day use. The shock-absorbing Impact Zone heel (a soft heel wedge) is a bonus for bouldering, multipitch routes, and belay stations. Testers found performance sound for most applications, and the shoe’s excellent for heel hooking (thanks to the vacuum fit) and edging, with able smearing (4.2mm RX1 rubber) after break-in. Three Velcro closures offer custom tightening, and the split tongue eases entry. The Spirit IZ VCR is a great match for wide, high-volume feet.
Ideal Uses: Multi-pitch comfort, face climbing, edging, bouldering.
Bottom Line: Comfy all-purposer for intermediate climbers or all-day wear.