2011 Gear Guide: Rock Shoes

SWEET SHOES
10 rock-grabbing new kicks for 2011

Not so long ago, you either bought trad shoes (comfy) or sport shoes (painful). Nowadays, the way people wear rock shoes has changed dramatically. What used to be a clear line between trad and sport shoes is all but obsolete, because the most important criterion for shoe selection—whether torquing toes in cracks or front-pointing limestone pockets—is fit. Alex Honnold, for example, wears the same pair of “sport shoes” (tight, heavily downturned, asymmetric) on everything from 5.13 cracks and Yosemite big walls to short, steep clip-ups. Most of us still prefer specialized shoes for various vertical genres, but fit should trump whatever the manufacturers (and magazines) recommend for a specific shoe.

For this issue, we tested new shoes from late 2010 and early 2011 from six different companies; when possible, we asked each company for a high-performance model and another, less expensive model geared toward all-day use. Several new shoes weren’t available in time for testing (see page 72); we’ll review these in upcoming editions of Climbing. In this review, we give you the skinny on performance and the features you need to know about: last, closure system, lining (if any), rubber, and fit. A mind-boggling number of rock shoe models are available today (150-plus!), so take your time to fi nd the perfect fit, and remember to think outside the shoebox.

Happy Hooker
BOREAL KRYPTO
$134.95
e-boreal.com
Two testers commented that this is the best Boreal shoe they’d seen in years. It has a slightly asymmetric, semi-stiff last and a moderate downturn. Unlined leather uppers and an integrated, padded-mesh tongue offer a comfortable, sensitive fit. The lowest of the two Velcro straps is located mid-foot, so you can’t fine-tune the toe—best to size these fairly tight for high performance. One tester praised the way the flexible forefoot and under-toe concavity offer exceptional grab on overhangs. The 4.5mm FSQuattro rubber tends to roll on edges at first, but once it wears down a bit, the Krypto shines as sensitive and precise. Indeed, another tester was impressed by the “bite” of the rubber on tiny face holds. With soft, sticky rubber coating the heel and toe, the Krypto is one of the best “hookers” in the review.
Ideal Uses: Vertical to severely overhanging bouldering, sport, plastic
Bottom Line: A high-end Velcro for extreme projects and indoor training

Creature Comfort
BOREAL JOKER PLUS VELCRO
$98.95
e-boreal.com
Boreal’s latest model in its popular Joker series has a flat, symmetric last designed for all-day wear. The leather upper, synthetic mesh lining, and generous padding throughout make this the most comfortable shoe in the review. It sports the same 4.5mm FS-Quattro rubber that’s on Boreal’s high-performance shoes. One tester called these “unusually sensitive” for an all-day model. The toe is semi-stiff and slightly pointed for accuracy on edges and pockets, yet it’s soft enough to grab on slight overhangs. Soft padding surrounds the Achilles, and a thin EVA heel wedge absorbs shock on descents. The Joker Plus sports a high rubber rand, and the heel is rubber-coated for solid hooking. Two Velcro straps regulate the fit; a lace-up model is also available.
Ideal Uses: Long trad routes, cracks, allday wear
Bottom Line: Comfortable and precise Velcro for moderate climbing

BEGINNER’S CORNER
If you’re just starting out in climbing, your most versatile choice is a lace-up “all-day” shoe. A low-cost model will work fine, though more expensive shoes often (not always) will be more durable. All-day shoes allow the foot to lie flat, sacrificing some ability to push hard on small footholds, but making the shoe a lot more comfortable. The toe box will be roomy and not pointed, which will only cost you on small pockets and finger cracks. The rubber will be fairly thick, meaning it will withstand plenty of sloppy footwork before wearing out. Remember that you can resole your rock shoes for a third the cost of a new pair. If you plan on doing mostly one-pitch climbing or bouldering, a Velcro cragging shoe is another good choice—you’ll get a little better performance on small holds, and the easy on-off will offset the less comfortable foot positioning. Avoid slippers until you have more experience climbing with a high-performance fit. Shoes are made on a vast variety of “lasts,” or foot molds, and you won’t know which model from which company fits you best unless you try on a dozen or more pairs. Even a beginner should fit a climbing shoe quite a bit more snugly than a street shoe, but the shoe should not be painful. A good match between your foot shape and the shoe’s last eliminates pressure points and dead spots—you want a uniformly snug fit without pain. —Jeff Achey