Climbing
Equipment
From Monsters to Bastards - No. 246

Higher learning
Product: Montrail Splitter Camps
Price: $395
Online: www.splittercamps.com

Crack climbing, unlike the relatively intuitive movement of face climbing, is an acquired art, one at which most climbers must toil considerably before reaching a reasonable level of proficiency. But potential shortcuts are available, including Montrail’s Splitter Camps in Indian Creek. Jim Donini, the camp’s founder and ringmaster, bills the camps as being designed to “demystify crack climbing.” For a relatively bargain price, Donini offers three days of instruction by the top athletes on Montrail’s roster, including alpinist Jay Smith, El Cap speedster Timmy O’Neill, and all-around legend Bobbi Bensman, plus gourmet meals.

The group at the session I attended last fall was for the most part composed of neophyte crack climbers. Over the course of the weekend the guides schooled the students on everything from the basics of taping to the intricacies of torquing overhanging cupped hands. Though I was initially skeptical that Indian Creek could be a proper learning environment for novice crack climbers, I saw dramatic improvement over the weekend. By the end of the session, it was grins, gobis, and gabbing about return plans.
The Splitter Camp is a tremendous value both for its price and its content; a three-to-one client-to-celebrity-guide ratio elsewhere can cost you upwards of $200 per person per day, sans food. Montrail’s option is substantially less expensive and offers up some very tasty cuisine to boot.
—Matt Stanley



Fast feet
Product: La Sportiva Slingshot trail shoes
Price: $75
Online: www.sportiva.com
When the folks at La Sportiva handed me a box containing their new super-light, go-fast Slingshot trail shoes, I thought the box was empty. On the scale a pair of 8.5 men’s checked in at a scant one pounds, five ounces.
My interest was piqued, but I was skeptical as to how well such a feathery shoe would hike and scramble. I was soon enlightened; the Slingshot’s midsole is just stiff enough to protect your feet while descending peaks and zipping down trails, and can even handle the occasional scree field. The Slingshots are not, however, designed for the abuse of schlepping around an alpine sack on long backcountry days; use your full-on approach footwear for such outings.
Another surprise was how well the Slingshots climbed. They proved to be quite sensitive on slabs and rounded terrain, and their thin toes slotted nicely into cracks. The soles feature climbing rubber around the outside edge and give the shoes great stick.

Two lacing options can be employed. The traditional setup uses four wide loops and one metal eyelet per side; more tension can be had if you lace the hidden loops located between each exterior loop, effectively doubling the shoe’s support. The wide-set laces also make it possible to fine-tune the width for an exact fit. Overall, the Slingshots fit narrow to medium feet well. Durability for such a light shoe was better than expected as long as you’re thoughtful about use. If you mindlessly abuse your gear, look for something that carries more heft.
—Dave Sheldon



- advertisement -    
 

 
subscribe today
Sign up for our free Newsletter
 
Spread the love:
Bookmark and Share



Special Offers
MyUCTV.com
Bouldering.com








Visit other sports sites by Skram Media: