From Monsters to Bastards - No. 246

Enchanted clips
Product: Austri Alpin Micro Magic biners
Price: $18 for the quickdraw
Online: www.rockshoes.com
Finding a non-wiregate biner under 40 grams is a difficult task; finding one that gives full service is even more problematic. Austri Alpin’s new Micro Magic biners are a rare fit for that program; they check in at 38 grams for the straightgate and 39 grams for the bentgate, and feature a wide gate opening and a deep, clove-hitch-accommodating basket.
The Micro Magics utilize Austri Alpin’s effective variation on the keylock for snagless unclipping. The bentgate’s subtle curve could be just a bit more defined for those oh-my-gawd, slap-it-in clips. A comfortable bend on the spine of both models cradles your index finger for holding the biner steady while clipping to pro. If wiregates aren’t your clip of choice, see if a little Magic might work for you.
—Matt Stanley

Cheap thrills
Product: Metolius Cheap Bastard pad
Price: $125
Online: www.metoliusclimbing.com
Two thoughts sum up the new Metolius Cheap Bastard pad: serious beef, svelte price. This mat boasts a three-foot by four-foot landing area supported by an inch-thick top layer of closed-cell foam and a three-and-a-half-inch open-cell backside; all testers gave it high marks for cushioning.
The Cheap Bastard (or should we be PC and dub it the Inexpensive Birthright-challenged Offspring?) also comes with Metolius’ 45-degree offset hinge, which Velcros together to keep the pad sections from separating on impact. The pad’s corners are rounded, which prevents it from snagging as you drag it from spot to spot.
Possibly the Cheap Bastard’s most interesting feature is its cover fabric. For whatever reason, the nylon diamond-ripstop fabric cover seemed to shed dirt and grime better than the average pad. All told, the CB is a great investment, especially considering you’re only shelling out a Franklin, a Jackson, and a Lincoln.
—Matt Stanley