From Monsters to Bastards - No. 246

Warp factor
Product: Deuter Speed Lite 20 pack
Price: $75
Online: www.deuterusa.com

Packing up for a long alpine day can be a harsh test of one’s self-discipline: Many items, like spare sunglasses or that one extra cam, only contribute unnecessary weight. An easy solution for this packing quandary is to simply carry a small pack. That’s where the Deuter Speed Lite 20 steps up with its frugal 1200-cubic-inch carrying capacity and airy one-pound, two-ounce weight. Made for fast travel and light loads, the pack is ideal for use as a summer alpine pack, bouldering sack, and anything in between.
The Speed Lite 20 is built with a foam back panel, the outer edge of which is supported by a light Delrin strut. This combo gives the pack some body and offers support while hiking. The overall minimalist design does mean that you must take some care while packing or you’ll soon find a cam stem poking you in the ribs. I was surprised how well the Speed Lite 20’s generous three-inch-wide shoulder straps handled a load, leaving the removable half-inch flat webbing hip belt and sternum strap with just the simple task of load control.
For a full day out, the Speed Lite 20 has just enough volume to carry the essentials: shoes, harness, chalk bag, half of a conservative rack, a little food, water, and a rain shell. A skinny rope can be easily fixed to the pack’s exterior via four extra-long compression straps, and a helmet clipped where you like. This is the absolute maximum load — any more weight or bulk will overwhelm the shoulder straps.
The pack also features water-resistant zippers, three external mesh pockets, a hidden ice-axe loop, glove-friendly zipper pulls, and a small zippered internal pocket. Those fond of hydration systems will appreciate the internal bladder sleeve, hose port, and removable hose clamp pre-positioned on a shoulder strap.
—Dave Sheldon

Feel the heat
Product: Intuition Sports Denali boot liners
Price: $220
Online: www.intuitionsorts.com
For years, climbers have tried homemade insoles, chili powder in their socks, and other forms of jiggery-pokery, all in the interest of comfortable feet and returning home with 10 toes. Intuition Sports, however, offers a less voodoo, more high-tech solution with its Denali boot liners.

Intuition uses Ultralon EVA foam, a closed-cell foam that can be custom-molded to your feet. The foam is lighter (7 ounces vs. 24 ounces), more durable, more comfortable, and, most importantly, warmer than stock liners. It’s thermo-moldable, which means that it will conform to the shape of your foot and boot after it has been heated. (The liner can also be reformed, if necessary.) You’ll need the assistance of a professionally trained boot fitter with access to necessary accessories such as a boot oven to ensure that the liners are properly fitted.

I used the Denali liners ice climbing in New England, guiding in the Pacific Northwest, and climbing on China’s 24,758-foot Mustagh Ata. My feet were noticeably warmer — not the blocks of ice with which I’m usually faced after a long, cold day in the mountains. Drawbacks? The liners are relatively expensive, as is getting them custom fitted (upwards of $220 total). Also, for plastic boots with a sunken heel, such as the Koflach Arctis, you’ll need to jury-rig something to fill the void. Compared to the disaster of frostbite, though, these are minor points. For winter and high-altitude climbing, Intuition is the ticket.
—Ted Callahan