Climbing
Equipment

Apparel Engineering

By Julie Ellison

Four new jackets that break the mold

The term "hybrid" doesn’t just mean space-shippy little cars that save gas. Outdoor companies have adopted the word to mean apparel that combines multiple fabrics within a single layer for comfort and smart performance. Employing what they call “body mapping,” designers examine the way certain parts of our bodies work during high- and low-output activities, in all kinds of weather, and then put waterproof shell fabric where you need waterproofing, stretch panels where you need breathability, and insulation where you need warmth, all in the same layer. It’s a new way of looking at outdoor apparel that goes beyond your typical hard shell, softshell, puffy, and midlayer categories.

We tested a number of new pieces and then picked four that exemplify the hybrid approach. Since it’s almost impossible to compare an outer layer with an insulation layer (and some pieces can be worn as both), we analyzed each jacket individually to see how it measured up against what it was intended to do.


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Breathin’ in the Wind
THE NORTH FACE SUPER ZEPHYRUS

The first time you put on this jacket is like the first bite into a chocolate chip cookie right out of the oven: It’s comforting and warm, and you never want to lose that feeling of pure joy. The Super Zephyrus has PrimaLoft One synthetic insulation in the arms and much of the torso, with Polartec Power Stretch panels on the sides, hood, and around the hem of the wrist. It’s described as a “lightweight insulated hooded wind shell,” but it goes way beyond wind protection, offering insulation as a midlayer as well as protection from light rain. (A surprise rain shower in Eldorado Canyon had one tester thankful for the jacket’s lightly PU-coated, water-resistant nylon.) And this is an excellent midlayer to put under a hard shell because of the increased breathability offered by all those stretch panels. During a strenuous hike in the Sawatch Range of Colorado, the panels acted as an overall cooling system at the same time as insulation kept vital areas of the tester’s body warm. Both female testers appreciated the stretch and movement of this jacket; it didn’t ride up when arms were raised for climbing because of the stretch in the sides and between the shoulders. The Super Zephyrus packs down really small, is lightweight, and has a zip that works great under a harness. Available in men’s and women’s sizes.

  • $179
  • thenorthface.com
  • Perfect midlayer for high-output activities
  • Super breathable
  • Stretchy, comfortable, warm


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Multipitch Master
OUTDOOR RESEARCH CENTRIFUGE JACKET

With a hard-faced knit fabric on the front of the torso and airy Radiant LT Fleece on the back, sides, and underarms, this jacket was really breathable but still managed to block the wind with ease. Our tester complimented the “perfect” fit, which he called “trim but with a super-comfortable cut,” and he added, “Without the more mesh-like panels, I think it would have been restrictive and sweaty.” The Centrifuge’s warmth-to-weight ratio was excellent (14 oz. for size L), and it packed up into a compact package about the size of a honeydew melon (smaller with a stuff sack). Although the jacket repelled water at first, it seemed to lose some water protection and began to wet through after several damp outings. (The coat is not designed for steady rain, but wearing it under a hard shell is a good option because of its slim profile.) The hood cinches down nice and tight to keep all the elements out. Our tester lauded the Centrifuge as his “warm single layer for summer outings in lower mountains,” perfect for a multi-pitch where one layer is needed to both climb and belay in. Sorry ladies, it’s only available in men’s.





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