Wanted: versatility and utility
Nine top approach shoes put through their paces

When it comes to moderate rock routes and summer alpine climbs, it pays to have a versatile approach shoe, not simply a trail runner with some sticky rubber slapped on it or a stripped-down hiking boot. A technical approach shoe must strike a fine balance between hiking and climbing, enabling you to churn out five trail miles with a moderate load and get you up that 5.6 ridgeline with nary a slip — exactly the criteria we gave manufacturers for their test entries, which varied from strong climbers to stout hikers and everything in between. With the right pair of mountain scramblers, you should be able to leave your rock shoes at home for moderate alpine rock climbs from the Tetons to the Sierras.
Construction. Alhough each manufacturer has their particular formula for putting together a shoe, the construction materials and methods are similar, from the upper to the midsole to the sole.
Uppers are typically made of combinations of leather and synthetic materials. Some manufacturers place a premium on durability, while others look toward breathability and comfort. You have to decide which is a greater necessity — do you usually tackle climbs with lots of trail mileage that demand durability, or do you live in a hot climate, where breathability is at a premium? Other important considerations for the upper include the lacing system and sticky-rubber toe rands. Ideally, the laces should extend as far as possible down the toe box; this enables you to tighten the shoe around your forefoot, giving you a climbing-shoe feel. Sticky-rubber toe rands are also a necessity for crack climbing and increased durability.
The midsole of a shoe is the platform on which you stand, hike, and climb. Ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) foam is the most common material for midsole construction and typically comes in two forms: sandwiched or molded. Sandwiched EVA provides a more cushioned feel, while molded EVA gives greater durability and uniformity. Another material, molded polyurethane (PU), most often used in hiking boots, is firmer and denser than EVA. While it is very durable, it comes up short in cushioning.
All the shoes in our test featured some variety of sticky rubber on the sole, whether it was an in-house formula or a third-party product such as Vibram. While the stickiness of the rubber certainly played an important role in climbing and scrambling, the lug pattern and thickness were just as key. While you need a decent lug pattern for trail hiking and scrambling, it can interfere with actual climbing. Thick, chunky lugs will tend to skate and catch rather than smearing or edging smoothly.

Hiking. It’s easy to obsess over the climbing ability of a shoe while ignoring how it hikes. However, remember that you’ll probably spend much more time hiking in your shoes than you will climbing. Size your shoes to be moderately comfortable on a five-mile hike, while ensuring that you can cinch up the laces for a tighter fit on your climb. Your toes should not reach the end of the shoe, but neither should they be swimming in an overly spacious toe box.

Scrambling protection. Don’t overlook how well a shoe protects your tender feet while you’re scrambling over loose talus and rough terrain. If the shoe isn’t burly enough, you’ll end up with bruises and contusions that will make your upcoming climb feel like a Vise-Grip torture test. However, if a shoe is too burly, you’ll end up having precious little sensitivity on the rock.

Climbing: edging, smearing, and jamming. Ah yes, the business. What good is an approach shoe if it can’t handle the climb as well? On alpine rock, you’ll want a shoe that can smear, edge, and jam with aplomb. Most shoes will skew in the direction of either edging or smearing, depending on sole and midsole construction. Choose a shoe that fits your climbing style.