FiveTen Access, $85 1 pound, 10 ounces
Summary: FiveTen fathered one of the earliest approach shoes, the Five Tennie. More than 15 years later, they’re still in the game and charging hard. The Access features FiveTen’s signature Stealth rubber (subjectively the stickiest we tested) melded with a molded EVA midsole. The lacing system extends low onto the forefoot, providing a snug climbing fit. However, the lacing tabs sewn onto the upper can snag when you’re jamming, and the toe lacks a sticky-rubber rand. The sole has low-profile lugs and provides relatively smooth smearing.
Pros: Light. Excellent hiker. Stickiest feel.
Cons: Chunky lacing. No toe rand.
Overall grade: B
Garmont Sticky Twist, $109 2 pounds, 3 ounces
Summary: A direct descendant of Garmont’s popular Sticky Weekend, the Sticky Twist is an outstanding all-around approach shoe. The lacing extends quite a ways toward the toe, just short of the sticky rand. The sandwiched EVA midsole seems a bit chunky in the heel, but overall the shoe strides quite well. The moderately lugged Vibram sole provides an excellent balance between edging and smearing.
Pros: All-around performer.
Cons: Slight forward heel tilt.
Overall grade: A-
La Sportiva Boulder SFC, $80 1 pound, 14 ounces
Summary: La Sportiva took their venerable Boulder back to the drawing board and returned with the new Boulder SFC. The result is one of the best climbers — but also one of the worst hikers — in the test. The Boulder SFC’s sticky Frixion rubber sole provides outstanding smearing with reasonable edging and the sticky-rubber toe rand jams well, with lacing that extends right down to it. However, the molded EVA midsole gives little foot support, making the shoe better suited to climbing areas with short approaches.
Pros: Light. Excellent all-around climber. Inexpensive.
Cons: Poor hiker.
Overall grade: B
Lowa Pinto, $150 2 pounds, 8 ounces
Summary: A solid, durable hiking shoe, the Pinto comes up short in the climbing department. With a mostly leather upper, molded PU midsole (the only one in the test), and stout Vibram sole, Lowa has put together a well-built hiker that edges
reasonably well. However, the shoe’s lacing does not extend very far over the toe box and its minimalist toe rand is not sticky. The thick sole lugs (the chunkiest in the test) tended to skate rather than smear. However, if you’re looking for a shoe that will hike long distances and handle moderate scrambling, the Pinto may be for you. Fits medium-narrow to medium feet.
Pros: Excellent foot protection and durability. Good edging platform.
Cons: Expensive. No sticky rand.
Overall grade: B-
Montrail D7, $80 Editors' Choice award Winner 2 pounds
Summary: Best known for their trail-running shoes, Montrail now debuts the D7, a shoe that, not surprisingly, shares characteristics with its single-track rocket cousins. The sandwiched EVA midsole features a running-shoe rocker that wants to sprint down the trail. On the climbing side, the shoe’s lacingsystem extends all the way down the toe box, butting up against the sticky-rubber toerand. Though the D7 lacks a solid edging platform, its smooth-smearing, lightly-lugged sole more than compensates for this. This shoe should delight the light-and-fast, do-it-in-a-day crowd. Fits medium feet.
Pros: Inexpensive. Hikes well. Outstanding for smearing and jamming.
Cons: Lacks strong edging platform.
Overall grade: A
Nike Air Cinder Cone, $110 2 pounds, 6 ounces
Summary: Bearing a strong resemblance to the EB rock shoes of yesteryear, the Air Cinder Cone offers a solid hiking/climbing combo. The shoe’s lacing extends low on the toe and features a sticky toe rand that’s integrated with the sole. (Said sole provides a good balance between smearing and edging.) The Air Cinder Cone hikes well, but could use a little less padding in the tongue and ankle. Fits medium feet.
Pros: Smears and jams well.
Cons: Chunky upper.
Overall grade: A-
Salomon Pro Sticky Low, $99 2 pounds, 8 ounces
Summary: Compared to the other test shoes, the Pro Sticky Low, with its burly leather upper and solidly lugged sole, initially felt a bit boot-like. However, it was quite agile on the trail and on the rock. The lacing runs low on the toe, which is swathed by a beefy toe rand. The shoe edges quite well but the sole lugging keeps the shoe from smearing smartly. The tongue and ankle padding could also be trimmer. If you’re looking for a shoe that’ll get you into the Winds and big-wall climb on Mount Hooker, this is the ticket. Fits wide feet.
Pros: Durable, agile. Ideal for big-walling.
Cons: Doesn’t smear well.
Overall grade: B
Scarpa Nitro, $110 2 pounds, 6 ounces
Summary: One of the top hikers in the test, the Nitro has a unique, trapezoidal-shaped molded midsole design that, though odd-looking, provides an aggressive and very comfortable platform. On the climbing side, this shoe comes up short: The lacing does not cover the forefoot and there’s no sticky rand. The moderately lugged sole edged and smeared reasonably well, but without a sticky rand, jamming was less than stellar. Also, the Nitro was the only shoe in the test that lacked heel pull-on tabs. Fits medium feet.
Pros: Outstanding hiker.
Cons: Lacks heel pull-on tab. Mediocre climber.
Overall grade: B
Vasque Talus GTX XCR, $115 1 pound, 14 ounces
Summary: The Talus GTX XCR was yet another hiking star. The solidly-lugged sole and comfy molded-EVA midsole ate up the miles. The XCR Gore-tex liner made the shoe highly waterproof — perfect for sloppy approaches — though the shoe showed reduced breathability in sweaty environments. The sticky Stealth sole made for good smearing despite the chunky sole lugs, which compromised jamming ability. Also, the lacing system needed to extend down over the toe box,
and a sticky rubber rand was lacking. One durability issue presented itself right away: The heel pull-on tabs were very fragile, with some snapping the first day out. Fits medium feet.
Pros: Hikes well. Very waterproof.
Cons: Heel pull-on tabs not durable.
Overall grade: B
