Edelweiss Alpha,
$77, 9 ounces
Overall grade: B-
Summary: The lightest harness in the review, the Alpha is also the most daring. In order to save weight, Edelweiss has done away with the standard two tie-in points in favor of a single, albeit beefy, tie-in that rises just above the swami. From a safety standpoint, this setup eliminates the advantage of loop redundancy, but the harness does still pass the CE standard. The adjustment for the swami consists of a Velcro strap that is not part of the harness’s securing system; it’s for fit only. The Alpha was reasonably comfortable and boasts four woven gear loops — a surprise on a harness of this weight — that clipped and racked well. Don’t expect the Alpha to stand up to a lot of belaying, as the belay loop consists of just one small piece of webbing. In all, this rig is best suited for the rabidly weight-conscious redpoint artist who wants to bust it out on special occasions.
Edelweiss/Liberty Mountain: (888) 902-5462, www.libertymountainclimbing.com

The Test Results

Arc’teryx Vapor
BlueWater Icon
C.A.M.P. Geko
Edelweiss Alpha
Mammut Apollo
Misty Mountain Arête
Ocun Mescal
Petzl Sama
Singing Rock Rhythm
Trango Fly
Wild Country Helix Ziplock