OR Zealot Jacket
Light just keeps getting lighter. Not long ago, bringing an emergency rain jacket meant either carrying a full-bore, heavy shell or else a ridiculous coated-nylon poncho. I frequently opted to forego carrying anything
and often suffered as a result. Not anymore. The new breed of ultralight shells leaves little excuse for not bringing one. One of the lightest, yet best performing, is Outdoor Research’s Zealot ($199, eight ounces for size large).
Weighing slightly more than a can of tuna (the gold standard of comparison), the Zealot crumples into the size of a baseball, yet still possesses all the key minimum features of a shell: a solid hood, two drawstring closures (on the hood and waist), and
a zippered chest pocket. The zippers are waterproof, and the seam-sealing is immaculate.
The Zealot is made of Gore-Tex Paclite, which is Gore’s lightest three-layer fabric. Although it shed water fine, I was a little dubious about how well the Zealot would breathe, as it lacks pit zips or mesh pockets for ventilation. No worries: The Zealot transferred moisture as well as any shell I’ve used. The only problem I encountered was with the squirrelly front zipper, which required some tinkering to get into the zipper carriage. Lightweight, waterproof, breathable — the Zealot’s a winner. Anybody want to buy a used poncho?
— Ted Callahan
Outdoor Research: 888.467.4327, www.orgear.com

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C.A.M.P. Divax ice tools
Perhaps the first rule of testing ice axes should be to do so while following. I, however, broke in my C.A.M.P. Divaxes ($170 per tool, 1 pound, 3 ounces per 50cm tool; 57cm also available) leading a moderate pitch of water ice and promptly scared myself silly. After recovering from my adrenaline rush, I pondered the tools and wondered whom to blame.
The error was mine. The Divax is a great tool and I grew to love it over the next months of use. For the experienced ice climber it does takes a few pitches to get used too; the narrower shaft and lighter weight — C.A.M.P. designed it as a “women’s” axe — make for a different swing that relies more on wrist flick than a heavier tool. But while some might deride the tool as a “chick flick,” several of my male friends tried it and were equally impressed.
Being a guide, I took the Divaxes with me on several introductory ice days. Novice ice climbers on WI3 to WI4 floes quickly took to these tools — and the sport — much faster than with the other tools available. While the wrist flick often seems to be the skill that takes the longest to develop in a swing, Divax-armed first-time ice climbers quickly picked it up and consistently got solid sticks.

If you are looking for a tool for steep alpine ice routes, the coupling of light weight and strong technical performance make the Divax a no-brainer. The adze works well for mellower mountaineering as well. Add to that the performance on water ice and you have a good all-around tool. Note: For the men in the audience, don’t be afraid to be a Diva yourself — you just might find you like it. For those with small hands, whatever gender, the Divax is a great option.
— Majka Burhardt
C.A.M.P.: 877.421.2267, www.camp-usa.com