Although climbing is a full-body
exercise, nothing gets more
of a workout than your forearm
extensors and flexors—the muscles
on the inside and outside of the
forearm. Every crimp, pinch, jam,
and slap employs these muscles,
so they are susceptible to overuse
injuries like chronic deep muscle
soreness, elbow tendonitis, and
compartment syndrome.
Three forearm therapy devices
designed to address these
exact issues have recently hit the
market. As a Certified Advanced
Rolfer who’s been in the therapy
game for eight years, I rounded
up seven testers that included
climbers with issues ranging from
simple training fatigue to lowgrade
tendonitis. To get the most
out of each product, we watched
the instructional CD that came
with the device or the how-to
video posted on the manufacturer’s
website. We also discovered
that no one device was perfect
at everything; some were best
suited for specific ailments. With
this in mind, we asked testers to
consider two therapeutic traits in
addition to their personal healing
goals: how well a device relieved
general muscle soreness, the kind
you’d feel after a day of hard
climbing; and whether the device
could help eradicate knots or trigger
points associated with chronic
pain and tendonitis.
Editor’s note: If you are unsure
about the severity of your condition,
seek out a professional
health care provider for a comprehensive
treatment plan.
ARMAID (EDITORS’ CHOICE)
My personal goal was to relieve the mild tendonitis
I had been feeling on the backs of each forearm
(lateral epicondylitis). Mimicking the advice
in a helpful video included with the device (and
also found online), I addressed the trigger points
associated with my condition and felt immediate
mild relief. (It is essential to watch the video before
using the Armaid.) I then worked the rest of my
forearms to clear their general tightness. After two
weeks of using the Armaid at least once a day,
the tendonitis was completely gone. Another
tester recovering from compartment syndrome
surgery to relieve extreme muscle tightness
said, “The trigger point release was very useful. My
arms felt much looser after about five minutes.” This
was also the only device made to address the
upper arm (biceps and triceps).
What helps make the Armaid particularly
effective is that the user controls both the
intensity and placement of the pressure. But
two testers found the device’s two-handed
operation to be challenging when their arms
felt especially tired.
ROLEO
The Roleo therapeutic arm and hand
massager lives up to its motto “Roll
Your Pain Away” in both design
and function. The Roleo features
two sturdy, rubber-coated rollers
that comfortably sandwich the
hand, wrist, or forearm as you
roll them back and forth. The
top roller is spring-loaded with
an adjustable tension setting,
which allows the user to dial in
the amount of pressure desired. The manufacturer’s
website features a quick how-to video.
The Roleo was the most massage-like device of these
three and best at relieving my forearms of the residual
pumped feeling from a long
day of climbing or training. One
tester stated, “My forearms feel
flushed, like their circulation
got a boost.” Another positive
is it can be operated virtually one-handed. However, most
testers found that the relaxing nature of the rollers lacked
the pointed intensity needed to address deep trigger
points or soften chronically tight muscles.
FOREARM RX
Created by physical therapy
clinic owner Burke Collins,
the ForeArm RX performed
well at soothing
general post-activity
muscle soreness. The
user slowly runs his forearm
between two rounded wooden
rollers on flexible plastic arms,
soothing sore muscles. Pressure is
adjusted by positioning the rollers at
different heights on the plastic arms.
The ForeArm RX did a decent job at addressing trigger
points, but because of the flexible roller arms, pressure is
variable, so some force is lost
when trying to loosen hard,
chronically tight tissue.
Before use, the ForeArm
RX is temporarily mounted
onto a table with a clamp on the bottom of the product; it’s
the only hands-free device reviewed. One tester really appreciated
this when he was “zombie-tired” and “craved easy
relief.” The website includes videos on the best way to use
the device, along with information on therapeutic strengthening
exercises, stretches, and recovery strategies.