Black Diamond Super Nova, $70
Summary: When Black Diamond designed the Super Nova, they pulled out all of the technological stops. This headlamp is the only one with a dimming switch built into the glove-compatible on/off button that allows for three choices of power output — 30 percent, 50 percent, and 100 percent. I found that customizing the Super Nova’s brightness to match the task greatly extended battery life. Depending on how the settings are used, the batteries lasted between three and 10 hours. There’s even an LED with its own back-up energy source (a small, six-volt battery) for ultimate energy conservation. When the four AAs die, the 6v takes over and happily powers the LED for another 20 hours. The unit also boasts a voltage regulator to ensure steady light output, and a spare halogen bulb tucked into the battery compartment. The Super Nova has a low-profile design that feels good on a bare head or helmet, and tilting the lamp down to cover the on/off button ensures that the unit won’t turn on in your pack.
Pros: Choice of power output, LED, hidden spare halogen bulb, on/off button protectable.
Cons: Expensive.
Overall grade: A
Petzl Duo LED, $70
Summary: Petzl has been making great headlamps for over 10 years and the Duo LED is no exception. This bombproof lamp houses both a halogen bulb and a cluster of three LEDs. Petzl also makes a five-LED unit, and will release an eight-LED model with multiple power-output options this fall. The combo delivers outstanding range from the halogen, and enough light from the multiple LEDs that I had no problem following pitches. The Duo LED is also the only lamp in this review with an adjustable beam. Focus the halogen with the lever on the lamp’s side for pinpointing rap stations, or conversely, widen the beam for general route-finding. Factor in the lockable on/off switch, glove compatibility (except for the on/off lock), a hidden spare halogen bulb, and you’ve got a headlamp for the serious user. The only drawbacks are weight — a difference you can feel when compared to lighter but less versatile lamps — and a high price tag.
Pros: LED. Adjustable beam and spare halogen bulb in unit. On/off switch lock.
Cons: Heavy. Expensive.
Overall grade: A
Pika Gemini, $45
Summary: The Gemini is a no-nonsense, reliable headlamp featuring a cluster of four LEDs next to the halogen bulb. To further increase the Gemini’s versatility, Pika includes a small krypton bulb that plugs into the LED terminal, is considerably brighter than the LED cluster (it’s similar to an incandescent bulb), and lasts about 18 hours on fresh batteries. The on/off switch, which toggles between these two lighting options, can easily be manipulated with gloves on, and the power cord disconnects from the lamp to ensure that the light never comes on accidentally. The Gemini feels good on a bare head orhelmet, but the weight-conscious should note that, with its four AA batteries and beefy construction, it ties for heaviest unit tested. Changing batteries is the Gemini’s Achilles heel: A screw must be removed to open the battery case (a coin or a knifeblade piton works well), but it’s not something I would want to do midway up a route.
Pros: Four LED cluster. Spare krypton bulb.
Cons: Tricky battery replacement and no hidden spare bulb. Heavy.
Overall grade: B
PrincetonTec Solo, $27
Summary: If you’re looking for a lightweight halogen headlamp for hiking back
to the car after a long day out, look no
further than the PrincetonTec Solo. This compact lamp was the lightest headlamp tested, but don’t let its small size fool you — it packs the same power as the bigger entries. Factor in its simple design and wide harness straps, and you’ve got a headlamp that’s comfortable, low-profile, and works great on a helmet or head. Turning the lamp on and off is a matter of simply rotating the glove-friendly, rubber-coated lens mount. The Solo comes with batteries, a fleece carrying bag, spare incandescent bulb, and both a wide and narrow pre-focused light reflector. However, switching out the reflectors is not something you would want to do at night in the field. The Solo’s shortcomings are its short burn time of three hours (it’s powered by two AA batteries) — making it more suitable for trail and camp use than climbing — and the lack of an LED.
Pros: Lightweight and extremely water resistant. Inexpensive, with batteries included. Semi-adjustable beam and spare incandescent bulb.
Cons: Short burn time. No hidden spare halogen bulb or LED.
Overall grade: B-
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