Arc’teryx Gamma MX, $280
Summary: What do you get when you combine Arc’teryx’s renowned technical fit with the versatile Power Shield Lightweight fabric? A light, virtually windproof jacket that provides just enough warmth for winter outings while still being comfortable in the mild temps of spring and fall. The Gamma MX has a trim torsothat stays put under a harness, long arms,
low-profile elasticized wrist closures, and two hand-warmer pockets positioned just high enough to be used with a harness or hip belt. Two chest pockets, a small sleeve pocket that works great for a topo or a few energy gels, and a drawcord in the waist complete the package. The only drawback to the Gamma MX is its steep price.
Pros: Great fit. Light. Versatile.
Cons: Expensive.
Overall grade: A
Beyond Fleece Cold Fusion, $189
Summary: If you have trouble finding jackets that fit or like the idea of having a jacket custom-made to your exact specifications, then the Cold Fusion is for you. Log onto www.beyondfleece.com, supply your body measurements, select your jacket options, and wait 10 to 15 days for delivery. The Schoeller WB-400 fabric was surprisingly breathable for its warmth, and provided ample wind and weather protection. The two hand-warmer pockets are well clear of all waist belts, a Napoleon chest pocket was a great place for a point-and-shoot camera, and simple elastic wrist closures easily kept out the elements. The waist closure was the best in the test thanks to its gasket-like design. The jacket’s only flaw was that the neck collar was a bit too high and bunched up under the chin.
Pros: Custom fit. Moderately priced.
Cons: Collar too high.
Overall grade: A
Cloudveil Serendipity, $220
Summary: The Serendipity was one of the first softshells to hit the market, and its simple and highly functional design is still one of the best. Made with Schoeller Dryskin Extreme 3Xdry, the Serendipity had no trouble keeping us dry while offering top-notch breathability (a definite plus for spring and fall temps, or anytime you’re working hard). A long, harness-friendly torso, generous arm length, and articulated elbows gave the jacket great freedom of movement, while huge Napoleon pockets and waist and neck drawcords rounded out the package. On the down side, the large Velcro wrist cuffs felt bulky under gloves, and the torso was more voluminous than we would have liked.
Pros: Great freedom of movement. Proven, simple design.
Cons: Velcro wrist closures slightly bulky. High torso volume.
Overall grade: B+
Eider Shield, $308
Summary: We were immediately impressed by the sleek torso and trim waist of the Shield, and one climbing day was enough to prove that the arms provide great wrist coverage during long reaches and that the waist stays tucked under a harness. Factor in the Polartec Power Shield fabric with the Shield’s high-performance fit and you’ve got a jacket well suited for any cold-weather adventure. Eider also uses waterproof zippers on the jacket’s front, large Napoleon pockets, and handy torso vents, and also has smooth, one-handed waist and neck drawcords. The collar is on the tall side, and all this performance does not come cheap — the Shield was the most expensive jacket we tested.
Pros: Outstanding overall fit. Full waterproof zippers.
Cons: Collar too high. Expensive.
Overall grade: B+
GoLite Dharma, $239
Summary: GoLite is known for making simple, user-friendly gear and their Dharma jacket is no exception. Built with Schoeller’s Dryskin Extreme 3Xdry, the Dharma offers up excellent breathability, weather protection, and stretch in a package completed by three well-placed, hassle-free chest pockets and a double drawcord waist-cinch system. The generous sleeves are great for climbing, the elbows have excellent articulation, and low profile Velcro wrist closures seal up nicely. The body of the jacket moved well with the exception of the waist, which had a tendency to ride up when the drawcord wasn’t tightened. The torso also had a higher-than-average volume.
Pros: Simple, comfortable design.
Cons: Waist rides up. High torso volume.
Overall grade: B
Mammut New Age, $225
Summary: Mammut has been using Schoeller fabric for years, so it’s no surprise that the New Age sports Dryskin Extreme 3Xdry. Jumbo-sized Napoleon pockets make a great place for skins or a pair of gloves, while the long waist stays tucked into a harness, and the generous arms come in handy for long reaches. The New Age’s torso has an average volume, so no extra material gets in your way when clipping gear to a shoulder sling, and the jacket’s simple Velcro wrist closures work well with gloves. The New Age also has room for inside layering. The only drawback to this simple yet highly functional jacket is the tight neck collar.
Pros: Good torso fit. Simple, effective design.
Cons: Tight neck collar.
Overall grade: A-
Marmot Super Hero, $225
Summary: Marmot uses a whopping six different fabrics in their Super Hero, including Gore N2S in the chest, Power Shield Light in the sides of the torso, and Wind Pro fleece on the back. The Gore N2S and Powershield Light give the jacket a high level of wind resistance and stretch, while the Wind Pro fleece back panel helps out considerably in the breathability department. Unfortunately, Wind Pro is not nearly as water resistant as the other components of the Super Hero (reducing its versatility in damp weather), and the wrists have no Velcro closure system or elastic. Additionally, there is only one small stash pocket on the chest. However, the jacket is cut with the climber in mind: The waist stays put when reaching overhead, the arms are long, and the torso is slim.
Pros: Great fit. Light.
Cons: Fleece back panel offers very little water resistance.
Overall grade: B
Mountain Hardwear Alchemy, $240
Summary: If you’re looking for an indestructible jacket that slaps the wind around, check out the Alchemy. It’s constructed mainly of Gore Windstopper Trango fabric so it’s 100-percent windproof and very warm. The Alchemy also has outstanding abrasion resistance. The drawback to all this protection is that the Alchemy had the lowest breathability level of the review and very little stretch, making it feel more like a hardshell. Also, the jacket’s short waist has trouble staying tucked under a harness, and the arms felt short when climbing. Two large torso pockets, a small chest pocket, fleece-lined wrist closures, and drawcords in the waist and neck round out the package.
Pros: Warm. Extremely durable. Great weather protection.
Cons: Waist rides up. Low breathability.
Overall grade: B-
Patagonia Core Skin, $249
Summary: For their Core Skin, Patagonia used a proprietary version of Polartec Power Shield. This special blend is insulated with a grid-style fleece that reduces weight and increases compressibility. Weather resistance, breathability, and stretch are the same as in standard Power Shield. An average torso volume means that there’s no extra material flapping around when you’re bustin’ moves. Excellent shoulder articulation and long arms help out when climbing, and eliminate waist ride-up. A waterproof front zip, two torso pockets that stay clear of your harness, Velcro wrist closures, and
a zippered internal stash pocket finish the list of features. Our only complaint is minor: The waist drawcord is too thin and lacks pull-tabs.
Pros: Good overall fit and versatility. Waterproof front zipper.
Cons: Waist drawcord finicky.
Overall grade: A-
REI One Jacket, $198
Summary: The One Jacket uses Polartec Power Shield, making it suitable for cold-weather activities. Unfortunately, its generic fit is more at home in a ski resort than in the backcountry. The One Jacket’s short torso and lack of shoulder articulation caused the waist to ride up when reaching overhead, and the loose wrist cuffs lack a closure system. Plus, the zippered torso pockets and two internal pockets get trapped under a harness or hipbelt. On the plus side, the One Jacket’s torso volume was low profile, and both the waist and neck have drawcords.
Pros: Nice torso volume. Inexpensive.
Cons: Waist rides up. Lacks arm articulation. Loose wrist cuffs.
Overall grade: C+
The North Face Apex 1, $149
Summary: The North Face manages the lowest price of the review by using their own Apex fabric, a stretchy, single-layer, double-weave material that does a great job of fending off wind and light precipitation while still providing enough breathability for high-energy activity. The arms have great articulation and the jacket’s long waist stayed put when making reaches. Unfortunately, the high-volume torso felt a bit baggy, and the two hand-warmer pockets got covered up by a harness or hipbelt. However, the Apex does have two large stash pockets that make a great place to put dry gloves or other essentials, as well as easy-to-use Velcro wrist closures.
Pros: Inexpensive. Internal stash pockets.
Cons: High torso volume. Pockets get covered by harness.
Overall grade: B
