Twist and Shout

Eleven shoes for the brutal joys of crack climbing

Trad veterans swear by their favorite crack shoe like it’s their momma’s secret fried chicken recipe. Whether they’re roomy high-tops (worn with tube socks), toe-crushing downturned sport shoes, or paper-thin slippers, every crack master has a favorite pair to don. The truth is that any rock boot can jam. But unless you value pain over pleasure, you’d best learn a few things about crack shoes—and try a bunch on—before next season’s stint at the Creek.

Here’s what you need to know about 11 shoe models—most new for 2011, plus a few stand-outs you’ve seen before—that were designed mostly or partly for cracks or long trad days. (Several companies did not provide new shoes suitable for this category.) Every shoe in the review can handle cracks of all sizes, but we’ve arranged each by its No. 1 strengths, according to crack size (fingers, hands, wide) or all-day wear. Only the most adept foot contortionists cruise cracks without some pain, but the following beta will keep you and your pampered feet plugging longer than your buddy and his delicate footsies.

Finger Cracks

Even the narrowest shoes won’t fit into the thinnest finger cracks. For those vicious splitters, some climbers wear tight, stiff sport shoes for edging vertically against the crack or on face features. Others prefer a soft sole for maximum smearing ability. Pick your poison. But as soon as the crack is wide enough to accept a toe—about the size of a wide finger jam—the following four new shoes are the best 2011 has to offer.

Slim Jim Slipper
FIVE TEN SUPERMOCC
This new shoe is a souped-up version of the best-selling (and still available) Moccasym—the classic shoe for Indian Creek finger cracks. This slipper has always had a flat last and super-narrow toe profile to stuff into thin cracks, but the new SuperMocc also has a high, split rand that adds toetop rubber for grippier jams. Comfortable leather uppers mold to your foot, and a soft sole excels at smearing. They’re too floppy for precise edging, but that’s not why you’re rocking the Moccs.

• $129.95
• Extra high rand
• fiveten.com

Double Duty
EVOLV GESHIDO
This new shoe is as much a thin crack specialist as a high-end face shoe. Its narrow toe, slight downturn, and stiff midsole ensure a solid platform for both jamming and edging. Laces fine-tune the fit down to mid-foot but are conveniently absent at the toe—a plus for stuffing in tight fissures. Lined leather uppers won’t stretch much so buy them larger (read: no curled toes!) for cracks.

• $135
• Jam, edge, fine-tuned fit
• evolvesports.com

Grabby
RED CHILI HABANERO
Built on a flat, narrow, and slightly asymmetric last, this shoe is a comfortable master of all but the thinnest cracks. Sticky rubber coats the top of the shoe for excellent grab while jamming. Its stiff, precise edging performance is also among the best in this review.

• $124
• Stiff, precise
• redchili.de

Techno Toes
SCARPA VAPOR V
Scarpa’s Vapor series includes a lace-up, Velcro, and slipper—all of which have their strengths on cracks. The Vapor V is our testers’ favorite for thin cracks, offering a supportive yet narrow toe for more penetration and less pain (due to a stiff midsole). The last is slightly asymmetric and slightly downturned, while a thin, synthetic midsole adds edging power. Two Velcro straps cinch the fit while the suede/ Lorica uppers stretch just enough to conform to your foot while maintaining support. Jamming? Edging? The Vapor V does it all. Also available in a women’s version.

• $139
• Stiff midsole for less pain
• scarpa.com