Not just for girls
Regarding the Hot Flash in the December issue, “Low Hanging Fruit,” about Vera Schulte-Pelkum and Heidi Wirtz setting vertical land speed records in Yosemite National Park: Vera did an outstanding job describing the event — a new all-women record for The Nose. Throw in a psychology lesson to boot, and the essay was a winner across gender lines.
Vera’s words focused on ladies with nuts, but for a guy who just hit the half-century mark, the concept of getting out of the chair and putting one’s mind in order, stop Beta and start action, was the kick I got. OK, new mindset. How about Steck-Salathé in a day, or Sons of Yesterday with a North Dome Crest Jewel in my pocket?!

Apologies make me gag
I don’t know whether to laugh, cry, or projectile vomit at the editorial in your January issue. Mr. Lachey’s [sic] craven apology for Mr. Welch’s Vantage Point piece is probably the single most offensive piece of writing I have seen in years. It’s pathetic enough that a few self-styled “climbers” were so threatened by a piece of mild satire that they want to cancel their subscriptions, but for an editor to run up the white flag and beg for their forgiveness is appalling. I have been rambling around the mountains for decades, from the Rockies to the Hindu Kush to the Himalayas, and for me the high country has always been all about freedom, of the body, mind and spirit. The mountain people I have known, Tibetan Khampas, Afghani Mujahideen, enviro-freak backcountry snowboarders and the like, were all notable for their outspoken independence and their willingness to fight for what they believed in. Mr. Lachey’s sorry attempt to “unify” the “climbing community” (whatever that is) via self-censorship and right-wing political correctness is the antithesis of all that. You can’t climb high without a backbone, pilgrim.

Give peace a chance
I was very pleased with Jeff Achey’s January editorial as it shed some light on a potential problem. I agree that as climbers we must maintain solidarity among our ranks. All climbers are entitled to opinions, which naturally leads to discourse between groups; however, if we, as a community of outdoor enthusiasts, were to divide and “polarize” into bickering groups we lose all respectability. We must bind together and not make ourselves susceptible to exploitation by the government. Ignorance and naiveté will only bring negative impacts on our favorite crags and wilderness areas. Thank you for the thought-provoking articles, and keep up the stunning work. You still have my subscription.

Layback for Joi
Your photo of Joi Gallant in the March 2005 issue proved beyond a doubt that you can lead Coyne Crack by laybacking the sucker. My friends and I tried that approach and I barely walked away from it. [Editor’s note: Correspondence included photos of failed attempt, not shown.] Way to go Joi!

Peter Croft a rap-bolter?
Now, far be it for me to question the competency of one of today’s elite, but the photo of Peter Croft on the Incredible Hulk’s Airstream [Hot Flashes, October 2004] makes me wonder if we are really prepared to attempt the routes that are being pushed today.
Unless my eyes deceive me, there is a beautiful, continuous, albeit thin crack between Mr. Croft’s legs akimbo. Yet, the rope passes not through desperately placed protection in these small-wire havens but through a series of — let me venture a wild guess — rap-placed bolts.
Okay, I am an old-school old fart who ripped his milkman pants back in the days when Camp 4 still had drive-in parking and lived through the disco era of Lycra (for my part, I do apologize ... what were we thinking?!), but if anyone dared to produce a route involving excessive or unneeded bolts, well, Royal and his vertical police took care of things. Why not let the “unclimbable by today’s standards” wait until tomorrow’s gifted develop the skills to lead and place protection regardless of the difficulty?

Peter Croft responds:
Simon: To begin with, it’s fine by me if you question my competency. I do it all the time. The crack you describe, however, is nonexistent. This pitch and the one above are the blankest corners I have seen anywhere. I couldn’t find a single place for tiny wires, tied off blades or even a RURP. And the wild guess you ventured regarding rap bolts was most certainly wild. I belayed Dave Nettle as he bolted both pitches on lead — a burly effort.
I understand your viewpoint but pictures can be misleading. I do, however, take offense at your admitting — in a family-oriented publication such as this — to wearing Lycra. My God, man, it’s like admitting to cross-dressing at a Republican convention. Yes, indeed, what were you thinking? Editors should set the rules.
While helping my 14-year-old daughter do her homework, I was doing my monthly perusal of your climbing rag. I showed her a picture on page 43, January issue [story on Pocatello Pump fatality], and asked her what was objectionable about the picture. After a nanosecond of study she said, “No helmets — not one.” I reinforced her observation with an “A.” Then I told her that a climber was killed at that event for that very reason.
Whether you acknowledge it or not, you and your staff are accessories to the death of every climber who has a head injury while climbing. Your unspoken policy of winking at helmets only steers climbers to ignorance. Your magazine drives social acceptance of clothing, hardware, and safety equipment. Show me a photo of Tommy Caldwell or Beth Rodden climbing 5.12 with a helmet and you’ll get an old-guard climber’s respect.
The adult human head weighs about 10 pounds. Do the physics of force created by an object of that weight falling five feet. You will be amazed. I hope when you get your bell rung with a rock next time at the crag that you might find a little more consistency in your thinking.

PS: The pic on page 24 of that issue was impressive! Keep it up!