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 TECH TIP - Trad - HIGH EXPOSURE
By Mark Synnott - We left the Black Canyon’s North Rim Campground a little before 9 a.m. — fine if we weren’t climbing Stratosfear (VI 5.11+ R), on the Painted Wall. Come dark, we still had three pitches left, including the crux.  TECH TIP - Sport - SPACE CADET
By Lee Sheftel - We all have one: a climbing partner so lovable that we put up with with his intractable spaciness. Take my friend Dave, who’s always losing his keys and often has at least two or three Grigris (only one his own, of course) floating in his climbing pack.  Tech Tip - Sport - The Month
By Andy Raether - My training schedule comes as a result of eight years of focused effort. When I train well, I can redpoint climbs like Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14c FA; Rifle), an 80-foot limestone power-endurance route, but I can also tap raw power, say that required by the Rocklands’ roof The Vice (V13/14).  Tech Tip - Alpine - Alpine Groveling
By Freddie Wilkinson - With my back against a smooth granite wall and both feet planted across from me, I stare into an 18-inch-wide runnel of WI5. It would be great climbing… had I brought screws, ice tools, and crampons. I shimmy up several inches but slide back down a foot.  Tech Tip - Alpine - Shelter For The Storm
By Molly Loomis - When a storm hits, most expedition climbers play cards, pick lint off of their boot liners, or fantasize about sipping Mai Thais. A little “tent pitching” and a flask of grandpa’s cough syrup easily bide the downtime for most ...  Tech Tip - Sport - The quiet art of solo toproping
By Jeff Achey - Which is worse: training on the same old greasy boulder problems or losing your climbing partner in a fight over unmarked gear?  Tech Tip - Ice - Mix and Match
By Sean Isaac - We’ve all heard it: “Leashless ice climbing is the wave of the future.” And, indeed, the freedom it offers is unparalleled — complex, flowing, three-dimensional movement on modern mixed routes, and a greater sense of liberty on vertical pillars.  Tech Tip - Sport - Redpoint Resting
By Brittany Griffith - “Just dirt me!” I squawked. Hopelessly hanging 10 feet from the anchor for the umpteenth time, I was nearing tears. A local, who had the route ruthlessly wired, coolly suggested that I “work the rest” more.  Tech Tip - Training - Amino-Acid Trip
By Kyle Vassilopoulos - It’s probably happened at one time or another: menacing thoughts about energy deficits hurting your climbing performance, keeping you up at night. Unfortunately, climbers don’t always have the best methods for maintaining. We often go on harmful, unhealthy diets. And the dirtbagging approach to eating often proves detrimental, too.  Tech Tip - Sport - Flash Pump Begone!
By Matt Samet - Now you’ve done it — you wanted to wow the entourage, so you warmed up on a route two number grades harder than usual, hoping you would style. You were pumped at bolt two, but hung on anyway, scrapping and flailing skyward out of sheer stubbornness.  Tech Tip - Sport - Developing über strength
By Eric J. Hörst - Want to increase your maximum strength and power? Would you like to feel stronger on small handholds and increase your prowess on dynamic moves? Are you stuck in a performance plateau and need a boost to surmount it?  Tech Tip - Alpine - The soft-knot method
By Dave Nettle - I actually began to focus on the glacier travel and realized that there’s a more versatile and functional way to rope up, especially for climbers who travel in a party of two and want to keep their equipment to a minimum.  Tech Tip - Big Wall - Portaledge cooking
By Mark Synnott - For alpine big-wall climbing, a stove is mandatory for melting snow. A butane-canister hanging stove is the way to go for almost all domestic wall-climbing trips as it is easier to maintain and operate, and less prone to accidents (read: fireballs) than a liquid-fuel stove.  Tech Tip - Ice - Assessing mixed-route placements
By Ryan Nelson - Eye your holds. As with rock climbing, studying the route’s features from the ground allows you to build a mental roadmap of the best sequence without getting pumped.  Tech Tip - bouldering - Avoiding the beached whale
By Chris Van Leuven - You’ve just hiked the crux of your latest proj. Just a few easy moves and a nasty topout separate you from victory. You stick the final grips with ease, and pull up to the lip. Then it hits you: Your feet are way off the deck, and you’re not sure what to do next. |
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