 |
|
|
 Tech Tip - Trad - Sidewinder
By Craig Luebben - On the first ascent of the striking parallel-sided squeeze chimney Sidewinder, in Long Canyon, near Moab, I reached a spot where the crack was just wider than the length of my foot. I was struggling for every inch of progress with my body in a vertical orientation.  Tech Tip - Trad - Fancy feet
By Jared Ogden - Ever feel puzzled by how to best utilize your feet on crack climbs? Splitters can feel desperate if you don’t have solid footwork. Whether you’re heading out to send your granite nemesis, or to the cracks of Indian Creek, these techniques will have you better prepared for tight fingers to loose hands.  Tech Tip - Sport - A faster belay
Mechanical-assist belay devices — the Petzl Grigri and Trango Cinch — are popular both at the cliff and in the gym. Many people favor these units for single-pitch climbing and hangdog sessions, but using them properly is key to using them safely.  Tech Tip - Alpine - The ultimate alpine kitchen
Cooking is the art of necessity in the alpine world. Given the choice, I’d rather have linguine with sun-dried tomatoes, clams, and parmesan cheese than ramen noodles any day, especially when I’m fueling up for a big climb.  Tech Tip - Big Wall - Copperheading
Copperheads are a quintessential foundation of granite aid climbing, and my favorite modern-aid-climbing tool. Every aid climber should know how to engineer a copperhead placement, even if it’s just to replace the odd one that rips out on a Yosemite trade route.  Tech Tip - Big Wall - Hang Your Stove
While there are excellent commercial hanging stoves available, they have two disadvantages. First, they are costly, and second, they only run on canister fuel, which has its problems in cold weather.  Tech Tip - Trad - A safe retreat
Climb enough trad routes and you’re bound to find yourself high on a wall, forced to bail. Good planning and an efficient process can help you escape quickly and safely.  Tech Tip - Trad - Wide-hands crack technique
When I first learned to crack climb, I loved tight hand cracks. But when things got a little wider — around three inches — my spirit sank, and all my strength suddenly drained from my body.  Tech Tip - Sport - The matter at length.
As sport climbers, we deal with draws that are usually between four-inches and six-inches long. A sportie using a long trad draw is considered old school. However...  Tech Tip - Alpine - Difficulties with diesel.
Your long-awaited overseas climbing trip is just a few days away. You’ve packed everything, but what fuel will you use?  Tech Tip - Sport - Resting ... the strategic way
Rest. How long, how much, how often — everyone has an opinion. To a climber with a strict training background, to whom more than one rest day is nearly unthinkable, three rest days could seem counter productive.  Tech Tip - Aid - Taming dicey aid
Sketchy aid climbing can be a brain-numbing, adrenal-gland-tapping affair, especially when the consequence of falling is a monster whip or a trauma-inducing impact.  Tech Tip - Safety - Old rope safety - the rug
I become dangerously attached to my old ropes. I use them until they have the nap of an old blanket and the hue of a faded pair of jeans. When I get a new rope, I’ll still keep breaking out the old one when I’m in need of the mountain karma of my youth, or a whiff of the lichens of yore.  Tech Tip -Trad - Can You Hear Me Now?
Get out your copy of Freedom of the Hills. There’s a command that’s heard often enough at crags nationwide to deserve a spot on the list of common rope commands: “F-ing slack!”  Tech Tip - Sport - Core Strength That Counts
Talking about the importance of “core strength” is in vogue these days, yet many climbers are uncertain just how the core muscles — the muscles located between your shoulders and pelvis — affect climbing performance and, furthermore, how they are best trained. |
Copyright 2009 Skram Media LLC, All rights reserved.