 |
Tech Tip - Sport - The support team
Being a good belayer involves more than just holding the rope — positive vibes, attention to your leader’s needs, and gentle coaching complete the package.
Tech Tip - Trad - Silent communication
!”Whaaaat?!” is the word most commonly spoken on multi-pitch climbs, where river noise, wind, acoustics, and helmets and stocking caps make it difficult, if not impossible, to use traditional verbal belay signals.
Tech Tip - Sport - S.L.E.D. for safety
After a trip to the climbing gym, you’re hooked. With brand new shoes and chalkbag, you venture out to the boulders, a confusing new world.
Tech Tip - Alpine - Frazzle-free rappelling
Perhaps my least favorite thing about climbing is the constant need to rappel. Hanging directly from the rope with no backup has always seemed like a great way to get into trouble.
Tech Tip - Aid - Stormy horror
Climb enough big walls, and sooner or later you’re going to spend a night in Hell.
Tech Tip - Aid - Yosemite Secret Weapon
As most accomplished speed climbers will tell you, technique is as valuable as strength and bravery when it comes to blitzing the Captain.
Tech Tip - Alpine - Sans dragonnes
While leashless mixed climbing may not be for everyone, it can greatly expand your freedom of movement by enabling you to climb faster and lighter on all kinds of routes.
Tech Tip - Sport - Open those hips
Listen up, Jocko! Hip and leg flexibility are directly related to technique — when you improve one, you improve the other.
Tech Tips - Trad - Helmet kit
The small space between a helmet’s suspension and outer shell can often accommodate a bare-bones emergency kit.
Tech Tips - Sport - Road Tripping
Get organized. Store staple items such as canned foodstuffs, the stove, a few canisters of gas, and some baby wipes in a heavy-duty rubber bin.
Tech Tips - Alpine - The future is now
Leashless tools can open up many doors and avenues previously unexplored, such as efficient crossovers and hassle free clips.
Tech Tips - Trad - Evading the pump
Before leading out, preview your pitch and note features with promising rest potential. If you have a detailed topo, carefully examine it for corner systems, ledges, slabs, or any sort of stance.
Tech Tips - Aid - A game of inches
Think tall. Sometimes this means using your finger to push that cam just a bit higher, or linking the cables of two nuts together to extend your reach.
Tech Tip - Aid - Flying the flag
A six-hour hanging belay may be boring (OK, really boring), but it doesn’t have to painful. With proper technique and a little caution, you can safely haul your portaledge while it’s open.
Tech Tip - Trad - Discrete tension
Sick of being the weakling and the buffoon? Forget excuses. “Discrete tension,” aka DT, can earn you credit for routes significantly harder than you actually redpoint.
|