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 Tech Tips - Aid - Avoid the big ride
The term “Expando” refers to any crack or flake that moves when pressured. These fissures can run the gamut from huge, creaky flakes to micro splitter cracks.  Tech Tips - Trad - Rubber up
This day, however, was the day I would climb it: I’d recently developed a rubber crack-climbing glove that worked extremely well on the many other splitters at Frog Buttress.  Tech Tips - Alpine - Grin and bear it
When visibility goes, confusion often arrives. Unless you have a Scottish Highlands sixth sense for whiteout navigation, knowing basic compass work is a necessity.  Tech Tips - Sport - Hands down
As you climb the friendly slab, you constantly remind Bubba not to release his brake hand. He doesn’t seem to be getting it.  Tech Tip - Aid - Neatness counts
It’s essential that everything in a big-wall anchor be redundant, meaning that if any one thing — a sling, carabiner, etc. — breaks, the anchor is still sound.  Tech Tip - Trad - Rapping smart
Suddenly, it’s late evening — you need to rap quickly, but can’t afford to get sloppy. Follow these tips and you’ll soon be swilling brewskis at the local Mexican-food joint, not stuck on some ledge for a long, miserable night.  Tech Tip - Alpine - Don’t spit in the wind
Untangling the ropes as you descend is going to be a miserable and time-consuming affair — a veritable nightmare. The solution, then? Don’t throw them at all.  Tech Tip - Sport - The support team
Being a good belayer involves more than just holding the rope — positive vibes, attention to your leader’s needs, and gentle coaching complete the package.  Tech Tip - Trad - Silent communication
!”Whaaaat?!” is the word most commonly spoken on multi-pitch climbs, where river noise, wind, acoustics, and helmets and stocking caps make it difficult, if not impossible, to use traditional verbal belay signals.  Tech Tip - Sport - S.L.E.D. for safety
After a trip to the climbing gym, you’re hooked. With brand new shoes and chalkbag, you venture out to the boulders, a confusing new world.  Tech Tip - Alpine - Frazzle-free rappelling
Perhaps my least favorite thing about climbing is the constant need to rappel. Hanging directly from the rope with no backup has always seemed like a great way to get into trouble.  Tech Tip - Aid - Stormy horror
Climb enough big walls, and sooner or later you’re going to spend a night in Hell.  Tech Tip - Aid - Yosemite Secret Weapon
As most accomplished speed climbers will tell you, technique is as valuable as strength and bravery when it comes to blitzing the Captain.  Tech Tip - Alpine - Sans dragonnes
While leashless mixed climbing may not be for everyone, it can greatly expand your freedom of movement by enabling you to climb faster and lighter on all kinds of routes.  Tech Tip - Sport - Open those hips
Listen up, Jocko! Hip and leg flexibility are directly related to technique — when you improve one, you improve the other. |
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