|
Tech Tip - Bouldering - Spot On!
Figure 3. Spotter’s Stance.
|
3. Spotter’s Stance.
“I’ve got that person’s
life in my hands,” says Dwan of his spottee.
“I’m God.” With that mindset, start with
the correct stance: stand closely behind
your climber with your elbows crooked
and hands by his waist. Put your dominant
foot forward and slightly bend your knees.
Discern where the climber might fall especially
with an uneven LZ and be ready to
move quickly. Also, focus don’t Beta-soak
when you should be spotting. (A good rule
of thumb is to train your eyes on a point
high on the back of your climber’s shirt.)
4. Size Doesn’t Matter.
Being taller than and/or outweighing your
climber, says Dwan, is not mandatory. In most cases, your goal is
simply to steer the falling climber onto a pad. Do this, from your active
stance (see No. 3), by pushing the climber’s center of gravity hips for
gals, waist for boys pad-ward while also protecting his neck and head.
5. Thumbs In or Out?
Debates rage over whether spotting with your
thumbs in (folded palmward) or out is safer. Dwan prefers thumbs out,
despite the risk of breakage. “You don’t catch someone with a goddamn
parade wave,” he says.
6. Spotting ≠ Resting.
During the filming of Free Hueco, Dwan spotted 24/7, shock-loading his elbows so often they eventually blew out. “Don’t spot on your rest days,” says Dwan. “You’re doing worse than climbing you’re catching people.” Dwan also recommends warming up with a few climbs before spotting.
Figure 1. Pad-Fu.
|
Ninja Spottery
Once you master the basics, try these two tips/tactics for more technical
situations:
1. Pad-Fu.
One padding technique for superhighballs involves holding up a second pad, a la an old-time fire crew. First, layer your base pads in the drop zone. Then, alone or with a partner, hold another pad level at waist height. The trick is to release this floating pad just as the climber makes contact, to absorb impact. If the situation calls for deflecting a climber from dangerous objects e.g., a corridor wall or tree you can hold the pad like a riot shield and bodycheck your climber into the ground padding.
2. Love Taps.
Not to be confused with the spotter dab, love taps are
light brushes that don’t take weight psychological assists that let
your climber know you’re there. (This technique is best used while a
climber works a problem, not during the send.) A well-timed love tap
can free your climber from fear of any back-smackers, giving him the
confidence to send, so ignore the cries of “chronic ‘dab’ callers,” says
Dwan. Of course, if you’re spotting a stranger, be forewarned some
view the slightest touch as a dab invalidation.
Contributing Editor Abbey Smith is always in need of a good catch. She
credits her greatest sends to spotters like Corey Dwan.
|