Belay On
An endless debate rages over which solo devices are best. Possible options include the Petzl Microscender and Minitraxion (the Valley favorite — probably because it’s a great lightweight hauling device); the Yates or Troll Rocker; Wild Country Ropeman; and the Ushba Basic and Wren Silent Partner, both popular because they do not have sharp-toothed cams like the other devices. Some devices will require a chest sling to keep them oriented and running correctly. Whichever device you choose, climb with an extra ascender and a foot sling so you can unweight your device and/or ascend the rope if necessary.

Hazards
Avoid large accumulations of slack in the system — this can precipitate a violent shock load if you fall, causing severe rope damage or
failure. Scenarios in which this can happen include topping out a route above and to the side of your TR anchor, or climbing traversing or very overhanging routes, on which the amount of rope slack may not be evident. Also, icy ropes and solo belay devices don’t mix; if your ice-climbing partner bails at the last minute, go skiing, or be especially vigilant with your back-up system.

Jeff Achey, Climbing’s Editor at Large, has been doing a lot of solo toproping of late.