Milking the no-hands rest

Whether you’re on the sharp end or riding the safety of a toprope, you’ve probably experienced it. It stalks with puma-like stealth, then pounces and rips you from your stance. Known worldwide as "the pump" or "el fuego," it’s the searing forearm throb that screams "Take!" Fortunately, for those us of without the grip strength of chimpanzees, there are a few simple body positions that, when combined with savvy rock sense, can yield no-hands stances that stave off the evil pump.
Before leading out, preview your pitch and note features with promising rest potential. If you have a detailed topo, carefully examine it for corner systems, ledges, slabs, or any sort of stance. While climbing, scan as many moves ahead as you can. Move quickly but efficiently toward the no-hands rest, capitalizing on quick shakes en route. Most terrain offers the potential for no-hands rests if you develop a keen eye. Find topropes or boulders offering the following features, then practice the corresponding techniques until they become second nature.
Chimneys. Ascending these elevator-shaft-like chasms requires minimal upper body strength. By placing one foot against a wall and using opposition to press your lower back and second foot against the other wall, you generally only use your arms to shim upward (usually when your feet swap walls and you must reset them higher). You can also employ this technique anywhere you find opposing features like weird stem boxes and corner systems.

Dihedrals. When ascending these features, look for opportunities to lean into the crook, stem your feet out, and press with opposing force on each wall, exploiting features like chicken heads and small edges. Be creative: Look for unconventional rests like hip, shoulder, or buttscums that free your hands for a shake-out (figure 1).
Slabs. These low-angle expanses are relatively hold free, so when you do encounter a positive edge or a dish big enough to afford a comfortable stance, trust your feet, lean slightly into the wall, drop your hands, and relax.
Arêtes. Finding a no-hands rest on an arête is not an easy proposition —footholds are key. Search for an opportunity to highstep or heel hook one leg around the prow, taking care to weight this foot as much as possible. Now smear the other toe under you, on or near the arête. Use your high-stepped calf to hug the corner by leaning your torso away from it (figure 2).
Vertical (or slightly less than). Again, seek a solid, protruding foothold that you can rock over onto, "squatting" on your foot and sucking your upper body into the wall.

Overhangs. Ah, yes, the coveted roof problem — the one that keeps spitting you off! Relax ... look for hanging protrusions (like spikes or flakes), huecos, and other features under which to latch a knee. Now, apply pressure between your knee and a well-placed foot to lock you in (figure 3). Though often uncomfortable, kneebars can steady your body through a dicey crux and take weight off your overtaxed digits. You can also find kneebars in wide cracks and flared corners.