Classic Climbs

  • Derek-Bloomstadt-Clean-and-Jerk.jpg

    Clean and Jerk (5.10c), Joshua Tree, California

    Picture yourself in Southern California in the late 1880s: An infamous group of bandits known as the McHaney Gang, led by the ruthless cattle rustler Jim McHaney, is being chased out of the San Bernadino Mountains by a posse of ranchers tired of losing stock to the gang. The rustlers escape to the east and set up camp near today's Twentynine Palms. They continue their lawless ways, stealing cattle and hiding in what they called Cow Camp, at the edge of today's Wonderland of Rocks in Joshua Tree National Park.

  • Golden Tears (WI4+), Dubois, Wyoming

    Golden Tears (WI4+), Dubois, Wyoming

    Partway along the road between the sport climbing mecca of Lander and the big alpine routes in Grand Teton National Park, the hamlet of Dubois, Wyoming, offers up a variety of ice climbing objectives including the region's classic, Golden Tears (aka Golden Tiers). Since the first ascent in 1984 by Michael Bailey, Greg Collins, and George Van Sickle, completing this 500-foot, three-pitch route has become a rite of passage for area ice climbers looking to step it up from single-pitch routes.

  • Captain-Beyond-Boulder.jpg

    Captain Beyond (5.10c), Boulder, Colorado

    Mickey Mouse Wall and the twin summits forming its namesake "ears" loom above the eastern ramparts of the Colorado Rockies. Outside the borders of Eldorado Canyon State Park, Mickey Mouse offers an array of stellar routes. The sandstone has fractured into cleaner vertical lines than nearby Eldorado, leaving splitters and dihedrals in place of face holds. But despite its being visible on the horizon, a mention of the wall is often met with blank stares. The crowds are kept down by the hour-long approach and by the cliff's annual raptor closure. For those willing to make the trek, Mickey Mouse's 500-foot south face holds a classic five-pitch trad route, Captain Beyond.

  • California Flake (III 5.9), Adirondacks, New York

    With more than 30 rock routes and unrivaled scenery, Avalanche Lake is one of the most spectacular backcountry climbing destinations in the Adirondack Park.

  • Rumor Has It (5.11b), Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado

    The first sport climb ever redpointed at Rifle, Colorado, was not a bulging wall of seeping pockets or a blocky overhang overcome with kneebars–it was a vertical gray streak of funky laybacks and edges called Rumor Has It, which climbers today seem to either love or hate.

  • Kahl Wall (III 5.10-), Yamnuska, Canadian Rockies

    Yamnuska's 1,000-foot white limestone fin looks like it could have been plucked from the eastern Alps and plunked down in the foothills of the Canadian Rockies.

  • Scarface (5.11b), Indian Creek, Utah

    Certain climbs just beg for the hero shot: the crazy stem box of El Matador at Devils Tower, for example, or the overhanging headwall of High Exposure at the Gunks, or the wildly exposed sport climbs of Yosemite's Killer Pillar. Nearly every climber who does one of these routes eventually posts the proof at Facebook or Flickr.

  • The Headache, Zion National Park, Utah

    Zion National Park is best known for its sandstone big walls and long, committing free routes, such as Moonlight Buttress and Monkey Finger. But Zion also hosts many less intimidating free climbs that don't require overnighting on a portaledge or freaking out on loose runouts.

  • Davis-Holland to Lovin’ Arms (5.10c), Index, Washington

    With a crux of well-protected 5.10 moves and a stunning position above the Central Cascades Skykomish Valley, this six-pitch line on Index's Upper Town Wall provides even the weekend warrior with an unforgettable dose of exposure.

  • Pyscho-Path (5.9+), Big Gypsum Valley, Colorado

    Most of the famous sandstone towers of the Colorado Plateau are in Utah, and most of them are 5.10 or harder. But deep in Big Gypsum Valley, in southwestern Colorado, thereâ's a seldom-climbed tower that goes at a modest 5.9+, yet holds one of the most exciting pitches in the desert. From some angles, Psycho Tower looks a bit like the Geico gecko standing up on its hind legs.

  • Dopey Duck (5.9), Shortoff Mountain, Linville Gorge, North Carolina

    Deep in the North Carolina mountains stands a wall of immaculate quartzite. This prominent mile-long cliff, which reaches heights up to 450 feet, is Shortoff Mountain, and the classic Shortoff route is the sustained 5.9 Dopey Duck, a 350-foot, three-pitch jug route established in 1981 by the Royal Robbins of Linville Gorge, Tom Howard.

  • Black Dike (WI4 M3)

    Originally graded WI5-, the three-pitch route's difficulties have eased somewhat thanks to fatter ice conditions in recent years and modern equipment. But the reputation and attraction are so powerful that it sees eager aspirants heading up while orange leaves still color the trees and warm rock beckons in the sun nearby.