Climbing The Gunks

New Yorks' Shwangunks are the cliffs where the boundaries of modern American rock climbing were pushed for half a century. Yet they are still one of the best places in the country for beginners and intermediate climbers to do classic routes. Whether you're an expert or a newbie, you'll find amazine routes to climb at the Gunks.
  • Gunk-Show

    Gunk Show

    When my wife was offered work as a dancer and choreographer in New York City, I balked. I grew up in Boise, Idaho, and most of my life has been spent rock climbing in the West, enjoying wide-open spaces and amazing geological landscapes from Canada to Mexico, and everywhere in between–what could the City That Never Sleeps offer to me?

  • Sleep Easy: America's Best Climber Campgrounds

    Sleep Easy: America’s Best Climber Campgrounds

    When it comes to camping, many climbers prefer a no-frills, quasi-wilderness experience, while others like their creature comforts. Whether you see sleeping under the stars as the best part of a climbing trip or a necessary evil, we've got you covered. We sifted through guidebooks, called park rangers, and solicited climbers to identify 10 (in no particular order) of the U.S. best drive-up climber campsites.

  • Thirty Pitches of 5.10 in a Day at the Gunks

    After climbing ten 10’s in about 4.5 hours in June, 2008, Rufus Lusk and I thought we should up the ante a bit. Twenty 10’s, perhaps, eleven 11’s, eek, thirty 10’s. YES! As training to climb the Nose in a day, we thought that climbing thirty 5.10’s in a day would be a relatively close approximation of the amount of effort we’d have to put forth.

  • High Exposure – 5.6 Shawangunks, New York

    Getting to High Exposure is not an easy thing. Sure, the 20-minute stroll along the Gunks’ tree-lined Carriage Road is mellow: perfectly flat with views of the Hudson River Valley to your right, and the delicious Trapps cliffline on your left.