ClimbingFirst Free Ascent of the South African Route (5.12c/7b+), Torres del Paine, Chile http://www.climbing.com Since 1970 Wed, 12 Dec 2012 23:35:24 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2 First Free Ascent of the South African Route (5.12c/7b+), Torres del Paine, Chile http://www.climbing.com/photo/first-free-ascent-of-the-south-african-route-512c-7b-torres-del-paine-chile/ http://www.climbing.com/photo/first-free-ascent-of-the-south-african-route-512c-7b-torres-del-paine-chile/#comments Fri, 15 Jun 2012 07:28:45 +0000 http://www.climbing.com/photo/first-free-ascent-of-the-south-african-route-512c-7b-torres-del-paine-chile/
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First Free Ascent of the South African Route (5.12c/7b+), Torres del Paine, Chile

Photos by Nicolas Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva – The Belgian-American team of Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva, and Ben Ditto have completed a 13-day, all-free ascent of the South African Route on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine in Chilean Patagonia. This is the first free climb on the 4,000-foot-plus east face. The South African Route was established during the winter of 1973-74 at 5.10 A4, and is believed to have been repeated only once before. Read More. Click here to read the trip report and see videos from the expedition.

 
 

a dead end


 

the descent


 

Ben Ditto


 

ditto on pitch13


 

Favresse


 

hauling


 

icy chimney


 

icy fist crack


 

jam session


 

carrying a big load


 

nice conditions


 

Nico on the offwidth


 

South African Route (5.12c/7b+), Torres del Paine, Chile


 

Sean and Ben


 

Sean on the offwidth


 

The shattered pillar


 

the summit


 

Sean Villanueva, Nicolas Favresse and Ben ditto on the summit


 

the team


 

Villanueva


 

 

]]> http://www.climbing.com/photo/first-free-ascent-of-the-south-african-route-512c-7b-torres-del-paine-chile/feed/ 0 First Free Ascent of the South African Route (5.12c/7b+), Torres del Paine, Chile http://www.climbing.com/route/first-free-ascent-of-the-south-african-route-512c-7b-torres-del-paine-chile/ http://www.climbing.com/route/first-free-ascent-of-the-south-african-route-512c-7b-torres-del-paine-chile/#comments Wed, 30 May 2012 05:27:29 +0000 Trip report, photos and videos by Nicolas Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva http://www.climbing.com/route/first-free-ascent-of-the-south-african-route-512c-7b-torres-del-paine-chile/

The South African Route (5.12c/7b+), Torres del Paine, Chile. Photo courtesy of xpedition.beClick here to see a photo gallery from this expedition.

We (Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto) have just returned from Torres del Paine National Park, Chile, where on the 2nd of February we summitted the Central Tower via the South African Route. Our ascent is possibly the third ascent of the route and the first free ascent of the east face of the Central Tower (1200m). We spent 13 days on the wall accompanied by our trusty mandolin, tin whistle and harmonica.

The South African Route is a striking line, which follows a huge dihedral that literally cuts trough the middle of the east face. It’s such a beautiful and obvious feature that we had to come back to Torres del Paine for it.

We had heard of grades from A3 up to A4 and knifeblade seams so we were really not sure it would go entirely free. So we decided to leave our assumptions on the ground and follow our instinct.

We encountered some amazing free climbing pitches with very sustained climbing mostly in the 5.11 range almost never below 5.10+. We estimate the two hardest pitches around 7b+/5.12c. One of them is a very pumpy fingertip enduro corner while the other is a face climbing boulder problem with a spectacular sequence using a crystalline pocket. We added one bolt to protect this free variation (away from the aid line). Another main free crux of the route is a mega sustained steep 5.11+ offwidth which was very run out with the only number 6# Camelot we had. Three of the pitches were redpointed after the summit due to icy conditions.

Favresse on the mega sustained steep 5.11+ offwidth. Photo courtesy of xpedition.be

The team hauling bags up the route. Photo courtesy of xpedition.be

Even though we never had very good weather we were disappointed that it wasn’t worse as we were looking forward to do some portaledge surfing and long jamming sessions. We were only trapped in our portaledges for two days, other days we were able to get at least one pitch in. After one day of fixing ropes we left the ground on the 24th of January, 2009, with 15 days worth of food. We moved on the wall in capsule style making two portaledge camps: one on top of the shattered pillar (pitch 10) where we stayed 7 days and the second was at Boeing ledge (Pitch 17) where we stayed another 6 days.

The route was first climbed in 1973/74 by a South African team and it was the first route on the East Face of the Central Tower. As far as we know it had only seen one repeat in 2004 by other South African climbers.

Nice conditions. Photo courtesy of xpedition.be

While climbing the route our respect for the first ascensionists grew. We found it very impressive how clean the line was left with so few bolts and fixed pitons. There are only two bolted anchors. However we did find a lot of old fixed ropes left behind by previous expeditions on the east face (not just on the South African Route) and we brought down as much as we could (a few hundred meters of ropes) . It’s a pity climbers trashed the wall like this. Most of the ropes we found were hanging on the lower slabs which shares the start with other routes so we are not sure who left them behind.

The Team is now taking some time to recharge the batteries with steaks, drinks and parties in Puerto Natales.

Check this links:

Thanks to our sponsors: Patagonia, Black Diamond, Five Ten, Scarpa, Sterling ropes, The belgian alpine club, Belclimb.net,Seeonee, Julbo, UPPM and climb.be

Click here to see a photo gallery from this expedition.

 


 


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